7.3L, 6.0L, or Gas. Which one should I purchase? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 07-20-2013, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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7.3L, 6.0L, or Gas. Which one should I purchase?

I'm looking for a new to me truck. I'll be living in Va and doing track days on a bike at VIR. Most of the miles to the track will be with the bike in the back but I also plan on hitting the track with my car on occasion. Towing maybe 4k-5k. My budget is about $15k-$20k. Most of the diesels in this price range have 100K-180K+ miles. Not too worried about that but I want to buy the better truck. I know about the issues with the 6.0L but what I don't is which truck is the best truck; 99-02 7.3L or the 6.0L or should I go gas. The 08 and above is out of my price range. Thank you for the advice in advance.

is the only truck option in my mind.
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post #2 of 11 Old 07-20-2013, 01:31 AM
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i love my 7.3, with that said it is a 11 years old truck and i had to do injector cups out the gate(common problem on 7.3s)

honestly,
the 7.3 and the gasers are going to be the most reliable out of the box,

the 6.0 can be made reliable/has the most power out of the options, but it takes some work, so if you have time on your hands and a good set of tools, it can be build into a reliable motor, but there are rare cases in the bunch that are good.

for the 7.3, stay away from the e99(has less power/cat) and the 01(has a diode in the trans that can fry it)


honestly when i bought mine, i looked at a 05 6.0 lariet for 3 grand more than my 02 7.3 xlt, i pulled the oasis for the 6.0(3 pages long) and walked away, i paid 14k for my xlt cclb in april with 116k miles and 1 owner, the 6.0 was going for 17k with 100k miles

as for the gaser, the 5.4 2v seems a little sluggish in the superdutys(they are heavy trucks)(use to drive them all the time in the air force), so if you want gas, go for the v10

2002 F250 7.3/JW Tow master 4r100 200k miles
Mods:explorer heater valve, WR GP relay, RiffRAff boots, lariat overhead console, Hydra chip, 6637 mod, 6.0 cooler, AIH delete and isspro2 trans, egt, and boost gauges. 92 gallon aux tank with a total capacity of 130gallons, 1800 mile range , 4" MBRP straight Piped. 2" Warrior shackles
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post #3 of 11 Old 07-20-2013, 07:26 PM
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Honestly, with your needs, you can get by just fine with a f150. It will be cheaper to fix, and with you budget, you can get a much newer truck. No need for a diesel to tow 4-5k.
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post #4 of 11 Old 07-20-2013, 07:39 PM
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I have had 2 7.3l yeah there where great but sluggish i went to a 6.0l and yeah they need a bit of help but 5 grand into a 6.0l ur good to go great trucks. I will never again own a gass truck personally I just don't trust them compared to a diesel

04 harley davidson f-250 arp headstuds oem gaskets,sb intake,edge cts egt probe,sct sf3 idp tuned/ php tuned,blue spring,zerex coolant swap,mbrp 5 inch xdp 6 inch tip,sinister egr cooler,new oem oil cooler,atlas 40 ficm,Painted cac tubes 7.3l wire loom,Diesel site coolant filter
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post #5 of 11 Old 07-20-2013, 11:54 PM
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7.3 - most reliable which IMO is key , if you find a good price on a 7.3 and have a little extra cash left over you can do some mods (depending on how much cash is left) if its your DD and tow truck you will be fine , rather haul 5k with a diesel then some gasser

-Jeremy

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post #6 of 11 Old 07-21-2013, 05:10 AM
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A 3v 5.4L will move 5000lbs and will obviously be cheapest to purchase and have the lowest maintenance costs at the expense of lower MPGs. The 5.4L can be found in F150s also... which will tow 4-5K just fine.

A 7.3L will pull better and yield higher MPG than the 5.4L but the trucks are (at newest) 10 years old. The rest of the truck might have some rust to repair and the drivetrain might need maintenance. Look for the manual transmission or budget for a high quality rebuild if using the auto (the autos are weak behind the 7.3L)

A 6.0L will have more power (and spool quicker) and rival the MPG of the 7.3L. These trucks can be cheaper because of the reputation. It requires the owners be knowledgeable of its known issues. Try to find a 6.0L that has the EGR delete and head studs already installed. Once the common issues have been resolved, it is as reliable as the 7.3L or 5.4L gasser. The transmission is a strong 5 speed auto vs. a 4 speed auto in the other two and the body/drivetrain will be newer.

'06 F250 FX4 6.0L/auto-studded, O-ring'd, deleted, turbo'd, inject'd, lifted.... typical bolt on
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post #7 of 11 Old 07-21-2013, 05:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks all for the advice. Gas is out. Sounds like an 02 7.3 or a 6.0 that has had the heads reworked.

Should I be afraid of a truck with 170k miles on it?
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post #8 of 11 Old 07-21-2013, 06:44 AM
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Studs and head jobs help a lot but the main thing you have to have done on a 6.0 are

Flush the crap coolant out and put some EC-1 rated coolant
Bulletproof EGR cooler
Install new ford OEM oil cooler
Fuel pressure regulator spring upgrade from ford
Re-tape engine harness and check for rubbing
05-07 STC fitting upgrade

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6.0 BIBLE
http://dan.prxy.org/Truck/6L_bible_html/html/TOC.html
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post #9 of 11 Old 07-22-2013, 03:30 PM
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I wish I would have found this site sooner. I just bought an 06 with the 6.0 two weeks ago. After putting 150 miles on it I took it back to the dealership for some brake work and for them to do other work that was agreed upon in the deal. I had an Expedition for a while with the 5.4 and tow rating was 6500lbs. Mine needed an engine rebuild when I traded it due to pulling my 4500lb camper. For what I was towing and HOW I tow it I knew I needed a diesel. Can't wait until they get it done, I want to drive it!

06 F-250 SD 6.0 CCSB FX4 Lariat
SCT LivewireTS, Blue spring
09 Jeep Wrangler JKU
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post #10 of 11 Old 07-22-2013, 04:36 PM
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I'm in the same boat, looking to buy a new truck. 7.3 is the only way to go in my opinion. Sure the 6.0s sound cooler and make more power, but all the work you have to put into them to make them reliable just isn't worth it in my opinion.

Charlie
2003 F250 CCSB 7.3--Gearhead tuned, MBRP 5", 6637, Diesel Site Coolant Filter, 203* Thermostat, ISSPROs, HPx, 5% tint


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