Studs, Springs,Pushrods?? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 5 Old 03-03-2008, 05:41 PM Thread Starter
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Studs, Springs,Pushrods??

I am looking for some advice on whether I need or should put in headstuds, valve springs or pushrods. The motor is being re-built right now. I don't want to spend the extra money if it is not necessary for the mods I have but I want the truck to be reliable after this is done. I don't want to be a thousand miles from home and have something go wrong if I can do something now to prevent it. I mainly use the truck for a daily driver and towing my 5er. I am installing forged rods in it and having a tranny built. As soon as it is running, I will be adding a regulated return fuel system and some new tunes. Thanks, in advance for any comments or suggestions.

01 LWB CC SRW 4x4 7.3 auto
Stage II's,HPX, In tank and pre-pump mods,regulated return
AFE stage II,Garrett BB Turbo,4" turbo back, ITP overboost annihilator, 10 pos. DP Tuner,
Motor and tranny rebuilt. forged rods,Mahle pistons, all balanced, new valves,Comp 910's,C/M P-rods,ARP Studs , homemade AIH delete kit, twin TRU-Cool tranny coolers,Ride-Rite air bags B-D X-Monitor
Don't worry about the Mule, just load the wagon.
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post #2 of 5 Old 03-03-2008, 05:44 PM
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with an aftermarket turbo that will produce over 35 PSI....id reccomend studs while your there...

if your looking to go over 400 rear wheel hourspower......id reccomend the springs and pushrods....especially since your there..
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post #3 of 5 Old 03-03-2008, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks, Marc. I've been reading this forum for a while and you always give some sound advice. I have never seen more than 30 psi. but I suspect that I may see more with new tunes. I have no idea how much HP this truck should or will make when I'm finished so I didn't now if I would need these things or not. Just thought I would rather be safe than sorry and ask some guys who know.

01 LWB CC SRW 4x4 7.3 auto
Stage II's,HPX, In tank and pre-pump mods,regulated return
AFE stage II,Garrett BB Turbo,4" turbo back, ITP overboost annihilator, 10 pos. DP Tuner,
Motor and tranny rebuilt. forged rods,Mahle pistons, all balanced, new valves,Comp 910's,C/M P-rods,ARP Studs , homemade AIH delete kit, twin TRU-Cool tranny coolers,Ride-Rite air bags B-D X-Monitor
Don't worry about the Mule, just load the wagon.
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post #4 of 5 Old 03-03-2008, 05:58 PM
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If the motor is being rebuilt get some forged rods in there.

Comp 910 valve springs.
Chromoly Pushrods.
ARP or H11 headstuds.

2001 F250
11.62 @ 115.79
Owner of Marty's Diesel
Elkton, Maryland
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post #5 of 5 Old 03-03-2008, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I was hoping that you would chime in too. I am putting in forged rods. Just didn't know if I needed the other stuff. What is the difference between the ARP's and H-11's. The ARP's that I've seen seem to be much cheaper? Any idea where to get them quickly and of course cheaply? Any idea how much HP I should be at when I'm done?

01 LWB CC SRW 4x4 7.3 auto
Stage II's,HPX, In tank and pre-pump mods,regulated return
AFE stage II,Garrett BB Turbo,4" turbo back, ITP overboost annihilator, 10 pos. DP Tuner,
Motor and tranny rebuilt. forged rods,Mahle pistons, all balanced, new valves,Comp 910's,C/M P-rods,ARP Studs , homemade AIH delete kit, twin TRU-Cool tranny coolers,Ride-Rite air bags B-D X-Monitor
Don't worry about the Mule, just load the wagon.
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