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post #1 of 6 Old 02-13-2013, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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Multiple Transmission Coolers

Hey guys I have a couple of questions for yas. I currently have a mildly modified e4od (rebuild 25000km ago) with just a Derale 24000#gvw remote mount tube and fin cooler with a 650cfm fan. This cooler seems to be sufficient when not towing, however I did see 200-205 degrees in around town driving last summer when the temps outside were 32+ degrees celsius.

I bought a 30 foor travel trailer in December, and worry my cooler is going to struggle to keep up. My transmission is not routed through my rad cooler. I have read 50/50 on this being bad good. When I bought the truck on my old transmission, it was not routed through the rad, but just a smaller cooler than what i have now. I am worried even if I try and clean my rad cooler that it is goign to have debris or be rusted out etc from sitting so long. Id rather not pay 300+ dollars up here in Canada for a new rad.

I am looking at installing another cooler in line with my Derale cooler. I am looking at the 30000#gvwr Hayden 679 with the Hayden 163 thermostatic bypass to ensure it does not run too cool in the winters up here. I think this should be more than sufficient, and I do personally like the idea of having seperate cooling systems, ensuring there is no cross contamination if my rad ever fails.

My other big concern is about fluid restriction. Will two air to oil coolers without including the rad restrict fluid flow too much? I will be sure to test it to verify if I buy it but would love to hear if anyone has two in line coolers? My remote mount is currently mounted behind the cut out in my bumper, if I buy the 679 I will mount it in front of the ac condenser to benefit more from vehicle speed and air flow.


Thanks for reading
Slimine

1997 f250 extended can SRW 4x4 7.3 turbo, e4od (mildly built up)
DP Tuner F6 tuned by Jody
Rosewood stage 2 180/80 injectors
Diy intercooled
BHAF
4" straight pipe
Swamps IDM
Glowshift pyro, boost, tranny temp and fuel pressure gauges
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post #2 of 6 Old 02-14-2013, 07:40 AM
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All that's needed for the best cooling:

SD bypass and 3/8" lines.
Tru cool max long mounted behind the bumper.
Plumb to the rad first then the cooler.
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post #3 of 6 Old 02-14-2013, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CT Performance, Inc. View Post
Tru cool max long mounted behind the bumper.
Plumb to the rad first then the cooler.
, installed two true cools, work great. I have a 6.0 on mine but thats a SD so it bolts up ez...

What this nation needs is cleaner thoughts and dirtier fingernails...
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post #4 of 6 Old 02-14-2013, 10:09 AM
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Check for fluid flow...really no need for 2 coolers.
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post #5 of 6 Old 02-14-2013, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
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I have a 4r100 bypass and 3/8 lines. As I stated in my original post I am weary of hooking up my transmission to the rad cooler as I am unsure of its condition with no real way to test it. I don't want to risk my rebuild to grime in the cooler. I think I'll try a tru cool 40k I'm series with my current cooler. Less than half the price of a new rad, and Imo tons of cooling potential.

1997 f250 extended can SRW 4x4 7.3 turbo, e4od (mildly built up)
DP Tuner F6 tuned by Jody
Rosewood stage 2 180/80 injectors
Diy intercooled
BHAF
4" straight pipe
Swamps IDM
Glowshift pyro, boost, tranny temp and fuel pressure gauges
AIC mod
Diesel site coolant filter
2" body lift and 35" Wrangler Dura Trac's

For Sale: E4od "Punisher" valvebody $150 obo
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post #6 of 6 Old 02-14-2013, 03:44 PM
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You can clean your rad..also use a filter if junk is a concern.

LPD47391 Tru-Cool is what you need.....you don't need any additional cooler.
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