So, I shouldn't move the thermocouple to the power elbow? I understand what you're saying about not wanting to melt the pistons (what is a reasonable temp? I'm getting up to 1100 degress; maybe a little more from time to time- I would think exiting the turbo would be an ideal place to monitor because it combines exhaust from both sides of the engine but would logically report a lower temperature)
You're correct, you'll lose heat in the turbo, manifold, and uppipes resulting in up to a 600* diff cooler than actual. So leave it in the manifold. One manifold won't be too much diff than the other. If anything, the driver side will be higher cause #6 and #8 cyls fire in succession. 1250 is usually agreed as max. The higher over that less amount of time you need to spend there.
I'm not exactly sure how the reply to posts works- so my messages my be a little mixed up.
You can click the 'quote' feature at the bottom right of a persons post. The middle button allows you to reply to multiple posts.
I would say yes, you could call it fluttering. But, like I said, I'm not familiar with turbos because this is the first turbo vehicle I've had. I'm not sure what all of the terms are to describe what I'm hearing. By under load, I'm not towing anything when this happens; just (most commonly- it happens other times as well) when I'm accelerating up a long slow incline on one of the big hills in my area.
Under load I mean you've got boost basically. That's probably is surge. There are some videos of surge somewhere on here.
Should I spend $450 on a ported housing or just dump another $1500 on a ball bearing turbo with ported housing. I've read that these can't be used with the compressor wheels designed to eliminate surge. I really wish I had more experience and knowledge with these things!
Depends on how much power you wanna push. Just read a whole lot on the 7.3 sections and you'll learn. The Wicked Wheel/X wheel whatever SOMETIMES fixes surge. The ported shroud will for sure fix it. I don't see why you can't use them at once.
I have a limited slip with 3.73's. Automatic transmission that has no slip and running between 120 and 140 degrees over long distances which actually seems pretty cool to me but I'm not sure what temp it should be running anyway. That's a pretty good temp.
I have two fully loaded over-rail aluminum tool boxes on my truck- the kind that fit down into the bed not up on top of the rail and I have a 16' lumber rack. I removed my rear seat for more storage room; overall, weight should only be a few hundred pounds heavier than stock-
The noise is coming from the turbo without a doubt. Another question though, when I installed the power elbow to the turbo, banks said to torque these to 60 inch pounds. It seemed kind of loose to me. Another source I found said to torque the bolts to ~190 inch pounds. Any idea which is correct? I don't want to over torque but I certainly don't want to under torque either!
On the boots? I just tighten till it's tight?
This is precisely why I'm thinking I might need a new wastegate. Could it be possible that the noise I'm hearing is the wastegate opening prematurely and allowing the exhaust to bypass the turbo thus, creating the sound that I'm hearing? Do wastegates weaken over time? There are several wastegate options available on xtremedieselperformance.com but their description is non-existent. I don't know what benefit they would provide.
You won't hear the wastegate open. The run off vacuum so it can weaken. Mainly they are stronger and you can preset them to open at a certain boost level. For stock applications it's ok.