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SIck of it!!!!!!!!!!

2K views 16 replies 4 participants last post by  joe blow 
#1 ·
Hello,

I do my share of exploring for hunting and shooting. I am getting sick and tired of this tank getting stuck in the stupidest sh*t and having to dig and place traction wood under the spinning tire from these POS one-legger diffs. Funny thing is it doesn't take much for this long beast to start spinning tires. Granted I run 50 psi so that is a factor and although lowering the PSI works like a charm, that is not an option every time.

I am looking for some opinions on lockers.

What have some of you installed in the front and rear to help?

Thank you
 
#3 ·
Awesome! I was just looking at those.

So this replaces the spider gear setup and resides in the carrier or is it a complete carrier....R&P get swapped and side bearings? I saw some that replace the internals only, which is why I ask

Looks like a pretty straight forward install and I shouldn't lose my R&P backlash settings removing the carrier and installing these?

thank you for the advice

joe
 
#4 ·
This is a complete carrier replacement F & R, so yeah the ring gear gets swapped no reason to swap pinion unless you're doing bearings up there too.

There is always a chance that going with a full carrier replacement your backlash settings are going to need adjusted......however that being said, when I did the rear end it was spot on using the stock shims. I did press on new carrier bearings too. With the front I needed some adjustment as the lash was way too loose (about 0.009 too much") so it needed some shims moved around. In the rear end, the shims are outboard of the bearings and you can have the bearings pressed on, then install/uninstall pretty easily at home. In the front end, the shims are inboard of the bearings so you have to put the bearings on, install the carrier, check lash, and if it's off the bearings have to come back off to adjust. There's a couple tricks to doing this easily but it does add a layer of difficulty if you don't have a press.

On a final note if you go this route.....DON'T use synthetic oil.....the TrueTrac carrier doesn't like it and it ends up binding/making noise and excess heat. It likes Dino. I asked an Eaton rep "why" one day and he explained the in depth reasons, but I'd have to ask again as a lot of it was wayyyy over my head on how the difference in the oils change the clearances so I just did what he said and have been happy ever since lol.
 
#5 ·
Thanks for that.

I have a full shop (so to speak) in my garage. I just read on the true trac and it seems like a viable option. My bros run Detroits on their crawlers and that is WAY to aggressive for a truck that mostly sees street.

You live in Oregon according to your locations, so you must see your share of weather. How do these work with fully inflated tires (I run 45-50 in my M/T's) in snow, mud etc without having to lower the psi?
 
#6 ·
I hate full-lockers on multi-purpose trucks. They're driveable once you learn how, but yeah I agree IMO they're a bit much. Only thing I'd upgrade to over these would be ARB's and those are $$$$.

Lol yeah definitely see some weather in this little corner. Especially this winter, it's been awesome. I run about the same pressure and tire setup (55f/40r empty) and they run great. On snow/ice the rear end will kick out a little easier in 2WD, about the same as a new OEM LSD though. In 4WD with these F&R it does seem to want to push more in the corner if you're coasting.....however....under power holy crap it's a whole 'nother animal. It's like driving an 8000lb AWD Subaru on dirt roads, it'll just grip 'n rip.....enough that a 25mph corner on dirt/gravel can now be taken at about 50 lol, and what a rush. With the ice/snow I just changed up my driving enough that instead of coasting through a hard corner she's under light power and there's no issue.
 
#7 ·
I just put an Eaton Locker in my front D-60 ('02 F350) and, for the coupla times I've engaged it, it's been Amazing....

I went electric because, although I have onboard air, it seemed less complicated and easier to rely on for the few times I might need it (12v is always available without relying on a 2nd system and its full-time integrity).

My stock 10.5 LSD still works well (friction modifier kept at a minimum) so it was always the ft that let me down (plus, empty that's where all the weight is). I think it's the single most effective change you can make for adding traction.
 
#8 ·
I'd be interested to hear how that works in the long-term for you Ralph. I wanted an Eaton E-locker since they came out, but I never found a ton of reviews on them for our heavy-duty axles. A lot of Jeepers have used them in D44s, Ford 9s, etc....but not many with D60s or the bigger Sterlings.
 
#9 ·
I did read of some early problems in breaking the engagement pins, that were addressed and fixed years ago, in the heavier axles. I'm probably a poor test for "long term" as I'm using it so gently. I just want to be able to tap in on in snow when climbing a grade or when I go up into the woods to collect firewood. Those are the only places where I've ever wanted to have it and, as I said, mostly when empty and the rears just can't get any bite.

I did this over the summer and haven't used it much so far, just to move through a tough 50ft or so a couple of times. No Rock Climbing or anything that would really put it's Strength to the test... ;)
 
#10 ·
Thanks guys for the advice. I have been looking and reading on the options I have.....which range from mild to extreme both in price and drivability. As I mentioned, I am looking at coming up to a situation and getting through it without spinning a friggin tire......that makes me insane.

Did any of you swap out your auto hubs for manual lock hubs? I rebuilt my entire front end (no gears) two years ago and noticed the vacuum lines for the locking hubs had some wear and rot.

Thanks
 
#13 ·
I will not change my tires since they are E rated and have a hard time finding 37's with that rating. I run TOYO M/T which is a pretty aggressive tire. Not sure how much better I can get.

I am still up in the air on what to get. It seems that the truetrac is a viable option.

I have 80k on the ring and pinion bearings. Would you guys bother changing them out? They are in great shape and I installed Timken at the time of gear swap.
 
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#14 ·
If you can press them off the old carrier without damaging them sure, but for $100-$150 I'll always just put on new bearings.

Plus it gives you the advantage when doing the front that you can grind out the inner race so it'll just slip on the new carrier and you can set your lash with the right shims.....then slide em off, press on the new ones, and you're good to go without having to press-remove-press-remove if the lash is off.
 
#15 ·
Never even thought of that. Is that how you did yours?

Is it pretty self explanatory once I am in there in regards to what you're talking about with the front?

thanks
 
#16 ·
For doing diffs with inboard shims that's the only way lol. And yes that's how I did mine. Just grind out enough that you can lightly tap them on and off with a hammer.

Pretty much. Make sure you eat your wheaties that morning. Getting the front carrier out takes a bit of oomph.
 
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