Rancho dual steering stabilizer - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 02-04-2014, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Rancho dual steering stabilizer

Hey fellas, where are you buying your Rancho dual steering stabilizer kits? $174 shipped is best Ive found. Thanks.

Shane

2011 F250 Crew Cab FX4



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post #2 of 15 Old 02-04-2014, 05:23 PM
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i would really check out top gun customz and maybe spring for the bilsteins http://www.topguncustomz.com/

search them on ebay if you want a good price

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post #3 of 15 Old 02-05-2014, 06:56 AM
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I just ordered a pmf dual setup for 299.

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post #4 of 15 Old 02-05-2014, 09:15 AM
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Carli has a nice setup but I think it's a single

Brett

2013 F250 CCLB FX4 4" PURE PERFORMANCE
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-23-2014, 05:43 AM
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I just gave my Rancho dual steering stabilizer to my mechanic instead of throwing it in the trash. I hated it. He said he'll either give it away or trash it, too.

First of all, no matter how tight you crank down the U-bolts in the center, the bracket still eventually moves down and rests on the track bar, binding it up and causing the steering to stick and fight to move. It makes driving extremely dangerous and unpredictable, especially at highway speeds. It would dance all over the lane. Plus, I'm pretty sure it led to the premature wear and demise of my steering box, hydro boost, and pump. All had to be replaced soon after running that poorly designed stabilizer for a while. I removed it as soon as I got home from a long road trip and realized what was happening. Called Rancho and they sent me a new set of U-bolts, exact same as what I had.

Then a Jeep guy I work with explained that this is pretty common, and the Jeep guys will spot weld the U-bolts to the axle to keep the bracket from shifting.

So just yesterday, I decided to reinstall the stabilizer and have it spot welded. Put it on and drive around the block. It takes time for it to shift, so I wasn't worried about it happening immediately. This gave me time to test drive it and see if I really wanted to keep it before I had anything welded.

Within just a short trip around the block, I came home and yanked it off. Even when performing properly, it makes it to where you have to turn the wheel back to center after a turn. The wheel doesn't come back on its own. That gets old very quick.

I am leveled with 35, and my stock setup isn't really sloppy or wobbly without this unit, so I work till be replacing it with anything else. Maybe it would work better in a situation where you have giant tires and your bumpsteer is bad. I just can't handle having to always put my steering wheel where it needs to be. I expect it to return to center on its own after a turn.

Anyway, this is just my experience. Yours may be better. Good luck!
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post #6 of 15 Old 02-23-2014, 05:48 AM
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i got zone offroads for 175, their main bracket is nice and beefy but the fitment is total crap. if your lift uses drop anything instead of aftermarket it wont fit right. they dont mention that on the site, just says must have 2in or more. i emailed them so hopefully they will fix it.

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post #7 of 15 Old 02-23-2014, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustyshakelford View Post
Carli has a nice setup but I think it's a single

Brett
that's the one yall need to be looking into , especially if ya run Toyos

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post #8 of 15 Old 02-24-2014, 11:04 AM
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Steer clear of white body stabilizers. As mentioned above, if you're wanting a dual "opposing" style setup, it's best to find one with 5100 bilsteins. The white bodies have no separation between the oil and nitrogen, for lack of a better visualization, they're the equivalent to lava lamps inside. When you lay this shock on its side, gravity wins everytime and the oil goes to the bottom and nitrogen to the top. This means, at any given time, your shock piston is only half submerged in oil, thus, there is no damping happening at all, only cavitation.

This is why we use a single unit with a IFP (independent floating piston) with a custom valving profile. There is a LOT of technology in our little shock, full Stainless Steel Body, black Nitride shaft, billet rod end and half inch spherical bearings. The back section of the shock where the shrader valve is located is a small nitrogen chamber that puts pressure on the piston that separates the oil and nitrogen keeping the piston submerged in oil at all times and pressurizing the oil to prevent cavitation and ensure no fading during continuous abuse. The nitrogen chamber is also adjustable to correct for Toyo's right hand pull as well.
Dave likes this.
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-24-2014, 11:32 AM
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Dan any chance Carli will be making one for the 05-07s?

Email: Dave@powerstroke.org
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post #10 of 15 Old 02-24-2014, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave View Post
Dan any chance Carli will be making one for the 05-07s?
God i hope so... You guys have seen what i do to my truck and I'm 80K of hard miles on my factory POS. I'll poke Sage again but it's always been a back burner project.
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