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post #1 of 16 Old 01-31-2014, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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coolant question

ok maybe a dumb a question but I did my egr delete a while back probably 5-6000 miles ago and the more I read the more worried I get about the correct coolant. I added peak coolant that is safe for all makes and models and added the additive that ford requires and everything seems to be fine so far. But after all the reading im kind of getting worried cause everyone keeps saying " make sure you use the orange" how much truth to this? should I drain my coolant and get the ford stuff or am I ok? I used the test kit and it checked out ok and even had the dealership test it and they said it was good? what is so " special " about the ford coolant and using it? thanks in advance

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post #2 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 07:04 AM
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Coolant is getting so technical and there are so many choices.

The 7.3L trucks used to need FW16 added to prevent cavitation. The small air bubbles in the coolant would errode the engine block.

With the 6.0L engines Ford started using the Speciality Gold Coolant. This was Silica and Nitrite based. So we were testing to make sure that coolant had enough Nitrite. If it was low we added VC-8 additive to increase the nitrites.

With the 6.7L engine, Ford has again changed coolants to the Specialty Orange Coolant. They claim this will become their world wide standard coolant as Ford redesigns there engines. It is a Organic Acid Technology, Often abbreviated at OAT. The current Specialty Orange coolant will eat older seals in past engines, So it is only used in newer generation engines that are designed to work with it. It does not use Nitrites. So if you add a coolant or additive that uses Nitrites, You need to flush and refill your coolant system to clean those out. The Specialty Orange coolant uses Carboxyates that increase the corrosion inhibitor. You can add this twice during your coolant life.

Carboxylates coat the internal metal of the engine to prevent corrorsion. This is a slow process, I've read that it takes up to 5000 miles for the carboxylates to form the protective layer on metal. So it is important to keep them at the proper level so there always is protections. The coolant test kits test for 3 different critera. First is the presence of Nitrites. Second is Freeze protection and third is an high enough % of Carboxylants.
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Last edited by Painted Horse; 02-01-2014 at 07:11 AM.
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 08:43 AM
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Coolant is getting so technical and there are so many choices.

The 7.3L trucks used to need FW16 added to prevent cavitation. The small air bubbles in the coolant would errode the engine block.

With the 6.0L engines Ford started using the Speciality Gold Coolant. This was Silica and Nitrite based. So we were testing to make sure that coolant had enough Nitrite. If it was low we added VC-8 additive to increase the nitrites.

With the 6.7L engine, Ford has again changed coolants to the Specialty Orange Coolant. They claim this will become their world wide standard coolant as Ford redesigns there engines. It is a Organic Acid Technology, Often abbreviated at OAT. The current Specialty Orange coolant will eat older seals in past engines, So it is only used in newer generation engines that are designed to work with it. It does not use Nitrites. So if you add a coolant or additive that uses Nitrites, You need to flush and refill your coolant system to clean those out. The Specialty Orange coolant uses Carboxyates that increase the corrosion inhibitor. You can add this twice during your coolant life.

Carboxylates coat the internal metal of the engine to prevent corrorsion. This is a slow process, I've read that it takes up to 5000 miles for the carboxylates to form the protective layer on metal. So it is important to keep them at the proper level so there always is protections. The coolant test kits test for 3 different critera. First is the presence of Nitrites. Second is Freeze protection and third is an high enough % of Carboxylants.

Now that is very useful information,,,, thanks for the time spent



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post #4 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 08:53 AM
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If you did not put the required coolant in, you need to drain the coolant and put the correct coolant in.

You are supposed to test your coolant ever so many miles. I just tested mine at 30k and it was fine.

I believe one of the tests checks for nitrates (as mentioned by the other poster) the new coolants has nitrates, so if you put a coolant in with nitrates, it will show up as contaminated and need to be replaced.

If you're unsure if it's contaminated, you can test it. The test strips are cheap, or my dealer charged $35 to test it earlier this week. It sounds like you know you messed up so you may want to save the hassle and replace it with the correct coolant.

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post #5 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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So since it tested out okay is it safe to run what I have in there or do you recommend changing it to the orange ?


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post #6 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Just spoke with a couple service departments at different dealerships and they all said the same thing that if it tests good then it's safe to run . The main dealership I go to said they will test it for me on Tuesday again just to make sure and they won't charge me for it and then if it doesn't pass the test I will change it


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post #7 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 11:00 AM
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So since it tested out okay is it safe to run what I have in there or do you recommend changing it to the orange ?


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Well, if it tested good, then I would think you are good to go. The test is there to see if it's contaminated. Whatever you used, must not have had nitrates, because I believe that's what the test checks for.

Sounds like you got lucky which is great.

Any idea how much coolant costs to change? Like at the dealer? Like I said my truck only has 30k so I have no clue. I believe it needs to be changed at 100k.

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post #8 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what the dealer charges to change it but they did say the coolant is $17 a gallon so I can't imagine less than $150 for them to do it


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post #9 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 11:42 AM
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I'm not sure what the dealer charges to change it but they did say the coolant is $17 a gallon so I can't imagine less than $150 for them to do it


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Ouch... Not cheap...

I see you're from Sheldon, I lived in Spirit Lake/Okoboji for about 18 years. My parents still live there, small world!

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post #10 of 16 Old 02-01-2014, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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coolant question

Hahaha wow it is lol I actually grew up in sibley, then moved to clute Texas then graduated in Farmington nm! Don't know why I ended up back here in Iowa but oh well can't complain life is pretty good in the north here .
Where you at now then ??

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