Join Date: Dec 2013
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It runs really nice. It's a hum you can hear while driving, and it takes a bit over three minutes to fill the tank. It includes a pressure switch to turn the compressor on/off automatically as needed. I positioned the tank drain at the back and the tank is mounted slightly uphill to encourage condensation to collect at the drain. It also has a safety pressure valve on top of the tank to prevent over-filling the tank. Obviously, the compressor will need to run for anything more than a few psi in a tire, but it will do the job. I usually go from 60psi unloaded to 70-75 when towing, so this can do that if I'm not near my big compressor. Also, having a blow gun at hand is always handy for a number of things.
The tank is tucked up snug under the cab with a small clearance so that bumps don't cause it to hit the cab. The compressor is directly behind the cab mount bushing which adds extra protection. I couldn't mount it on the driver's side due to the e-brake cable and numerous lines run on the inside channel of the driver's side frame. The air intake and filter for the compressor run up through a factory grommet behind the passenger back seat and into the cab to keep a clean air supply.
As for wiring, it was really simple. The compressor simply has a power and ground. The tank-mounted pressure switch has a power supply, remote (switch) wire, compressor power lead, and ground. I tied the grounds in together and grounded them to the frame, and I hooked up the compressor power lead to the compressor. I tied the remote and power supply lines together and simply ran a single wire up to the upfitter leads under the drivers dash. That way, when the switch is on, the compressor runs until full. There is a factory grommet in the floor to the inside of the B-pillar that was directly above the pressure switch. I simply ran the power lead up through that grommet, through the passenger door channels, fished it through the dash to the driver's side, and connected directly to the 25 amp #2 upfitter lead. No problem at all. If I want the compressor to run, I simply lift the switch and keep it up as long as I need the compressor (which switches on and off automatically to keep the tank full). When I'm done with it for a while, I flip the switch off and bleed the pressure off the tank.
Like I said, drilling the frame was a red blooded beech. Laying in drill chips is no fun either. This led me to promptly upgrade my creeper to a much better unit. Other than that, the hardest part was getting the bolts snugged up with no clearance between the frame channel and the DPF/exhaust. Also, getting the grommet back in place for the air supply line behind the back passenger seat was a PITA.
2014 Tuxedo Black, 6.7L Lariat FX4, Nav, 20" aluminum wheels
Last edited by siver_pilate; 01-20-2014 at 05:22 PM.