2013 F250 steering - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 06-22-2013, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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2013 F250 steering

I have a 2013 F250, I added the 6" 4link kit BDS KIT. All the upgrades and fox resi shocks! Wondering why the steering is so loose feeling? And is there any upgrades I can do?

I have the fox dual steering stabilizers too


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post #2 of 15 Old 06-24-2013, 05:47 PM
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I have a 2011 f350 n started out with a 4"4-link n was the same way. I have since gone to 8.5" 4-link n still the same. I can't see how it could b steering box. I have a couple days off n ima try n look through front end n see if I can find y steering is loose.



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post #3 of 15 Old 06-24-2013, 06:47 PM
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My guess would be that the engineers never intended for 37-38" tires to be put under it. Probably not much your going to be able to do about the loose steering short of taking the lift off. Just my 2 cents, truck looks way good though!

2011 f-250, lariat with nav. 20' dale jr. Racing rims with Mickey Thompson 33" tires. Painted to match grill coming soon. Stock exhaust, waiting for warranty to expire.
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post #4 of 15 Old 06-25-2013, 05:06 AM
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I think that the alignment shops don't take into account the road force incurred by these bigger tires they aren't putting enough tow into it when they set the truck up. I've had this conversation with several of those who should know in the industry.

The recommendation at this point is to increase the amount of tow in to .25 to .3, right now I'm at .18 and on the highway it just feels like it hunts all the time.

I'm told no more than .3 or you could induce death wobble.

2012 F350, 6.7L Diesel, 4x4, SRW, Crew Cab, Short Box, Loaded, Ingot Silver
Detroit Truetrac, Icon leveling springs, steering damper mounts, King reservoir shocks and steering damper, Ultra Predator 22x10 and Nitto Terra 325/50R22 (35"s), H&S Minimaxx & Gearhead, aFe 5" SS w/ muffler, Leer XL, LineX, Titan 50gal, Airlift bags and wireless.
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post #5 of 15 Old 06-25-2013, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the replies! I hope I can figure something out! It's not getting any better. Would love to have half as good of steering as my 11 dmax


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post #6 of 15 Old 06-25-2013, 12:44 PM
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Did you torque the nut on the pitman arm to the right lbs? You can look at the arm and see if it made it to the old make on the splines. Mine was doing the same thing till I bought a wrench and used my legs and pushed off the diff to get it sucked all the way in. After that no more play or walking from the steering or the wheels.

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post #7 of 15 Old 06-25-2013, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OneTon2011 View Post
I have a 2011 f350 n started out with a 4"4-link n was the same way. I have since gone to 8.5" 4-link n still the same. I can't see how it could b steering box. I have a couple days off n ima try n look through front end n see if I can find y steering is loose.
Went n bought a 1 7/8" wrench n tightened the nut on the pitman arm. No more steering issues. All is good n man was that loose. Def will keep my eyes on it. I even tightened up the nut that holds the tire rod to the pitman arm.



Shawn - 2011 Super Duty 6.7L Lariat

Oxford White / Sterling Grey two tone

12"-14" PMF 4-Link Long Arm Kit / Reid Racing High Steer / Crown Performance brake lines
King Shocks / SS M-16 40x14.50r22 / 22x12 AF
Yukon 4:30 / Monster Hooks
AMP Research / RIGID / RECON
PMF / Bushwhacker / AFE CAI
H&S Mini Maxx / H&S Delete / ARE
FLO-PRO / Road Armor
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post #8 of 15 Old 06-25-2013, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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How tight did you tighten it? I tightened mine up some today but didn't know when to stop. I was used break bar and cheater bar.
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post #9 of 15 Old 06-25-2013, 05:03 PM
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How tight did you tighten it? I tightened mine up some today but didn't know when to stop. I was used break bar and cheater bar.
I tightened till I didn't have anything left in the arms n legs lol n used some loc-tight.



Shawn - 2011 Super Duty 6.7L Lariat

Oxford White / Sterling Grey two tone

12"-14" PMF 4-Link Long Arm Kit / Reid Racing High Steer / Crown Performance brake lines
King Shocks / SS M-16 40x14.50r22 / 22x12 AF
Yukon 4:30 / Monster Hooks
AMP Research / RIGID / RECON
PMF / Bushwhacker / AFE CAI
H&S Mini Maxx / H&S Delete / ARE
FLO-PRO / Road Armor
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post #10 of 15 Old 06-25-2013, 05:20 PM
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Believe me if the ratchet with cheater bar is flexing your not getting all the lbs that it needs. You need to buy a wrench with open end and closed, I got one on ebay for $27 its about 24 inches long and you don't have to remove any of the brackets to get the wrench in. You put the wrench on and push off the diff with your legs if you don't have the *** behind it to get it all the way in you can tie the wrench down and use power steering to rotate the nut while the wrench is stationary to tighten itself.


2011 King Ranch, Spartan WarHammer, AFE 4" full exhaust, AFE CAI, 8" Pro Comp lift, 24x12 American Force shield SS8 wheels on 38x13.5 Nitto trailgrapplers, Spyder CCFL lights, LED tails lights and 3rd brake light. Kicker comp 10" low profile subs w/memphis 1000 amp.
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