I tried searching, but using lift or steering in a search here makes for a LOT of results.
Dad has a 2011 F250 FX4 6.7, had a Zone 4" kit professionally installed. (Still have stock 20' wheels and tires on truck) When they installed the kit, they left the factory pitman arm in place and this caused the steering wheel to be off center when driving. Other than the steering wheel being crooked, it drove just like OE
Tech who installed the lift recommended a drop pitman arm so Dad had one ordered. (Dad had the guy who ordered the lift, local 4x4 shop, order the pitman) Dad has pitman arm installed and now the thing drives funny. The steering wheel saws back and forth with the motion of the suspension while driving. It's not bad, it won;t rip the wheel out of your hand, but it's there. Also, while sitting on level ground at a stop, you can work the steering back and forth and the front suspension will cycle up and down (see videos)
I have never installed a lift that needed a pitman arm, but looking at the pitman arm, I think they ordered/installed too big of a pitman arm. Comparing the installed pitman to the OE arm is a HUGE difference. I'm thinking they ordered a pitman for a 6-8" lift or something. Any ideas??? Dad really wants to get some tires under the truck, but we are at a stand still until we can figure out this steering thing.
Here is a video facing the truck with Dad working the wheel and you can see the truck moving up and down:
Here is another shot from under the front end. If you watch the oil pan, you can see the amount of up and down we're getting:
2009 Subaru WRX Premium
Type RS BOV
Had to park it with some real diesel muscle....
Last edited by 05_PSD_Erik; 03-22-2013 at 08:13 AM.
If he hasnt done an alignment since having the lift installed, he needs to get one done. Thatll solve the crooked steering wheel. As far as the steering wandering while driving, the alignment will fix that as well. The lift throws off your camber and needs to be adjusted. The lifting when you turn the wheel is likely because of the taller coil springs.
The pitman needs to be a 4" difference and the track bar will need adjusted/replaced if it hasnt been. I went through this with my 08.
Its also possible the pitman wasnt pressed on all the way or the splines dont match the shaft splines. This can be very dangerous so look into it. It will be visible if its not seated all the way. That nut requires something crazy like 325 lbs ft to press it on. Not many average size guys can accomplish that.
2003 6.0 F350 dually on high cholesterol fuel (WVO)
2000 7.3 Excursion also on a high cholesterol fuel
Sounds good. Dad had the pitman arm ordered. I'm going to find out the part number and see what they ordered. I'm thinking we have too tall of a pitman. Also, there is about 1/4" of splines, rough estimate from memory, don;t have truck near me, showing above the pitman
2009 Subaru WRX Premium
Type RS BOV
The pitman arm and track bar need to be lowered together so that their angles match each other!
That is why at first there were no lifting issues when turning the wheel. The only issue is some suspension binding because the track bar is now pulling the front axle toward the drivers side which causes the axle to be off centered.
Now that you added a longer pitman arm, the draglink is at a different angle than the track bar which causes binding when turning the wheel which in turn causes the suspension to raise and lower.
You need a dropped track bar mount to match the dropped pitman arm.
The more expensive lift kits include these parts so that everything is matched up when the lift is installed.
2005 F-250 CC/SB 4x4 medium wedgewood blue
5" lift, 5" Donahoe rear springs, 35x13.50 MTZ's, 18x12 Fuel Hostage wheels, 4.30 gears, Banks 4" exhaust, Airraid intake, SCT from Innovative, ARP headstuds, Bulletproof ficm, Scangauge II, Randy Ellis Design lightbar, Street Scene flares, Harpoon mod, Zoodad mod, LED 2010 taillights, Switchback LED front turn signals