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anyone add the goose neck hitch prep package thierself

4K views 16 replies 11 participants last post by  psdcasper 
#1 ·
just wonder how hard it would be? didn't think about it when I got the truck, but think about it now and wish I did. cant find any install instruction's for it.
 
#3 ·
The prep package is the Goose neck hitch? If so, I had a shop near me install it. I could not beat the price. They installed a B&W hitch. I paid $595, the dealer gave me a price of $1,300 and that was a shop a few miles away from the dealer. The plug was an additional $150 installed. I think that was high.
 
#8 ·
same here, pull al the time, long hauls when i do... it works great.

that is what counts.. when and if I trade it, I will slap a ford blue oval ovedr B&W and get $2500.00 more on my trade in....:hehe:
 
#4 ·
There always is confusion on this question because there are a couple options from Ford. I had the hitch PREP package built on my truck from Ford. I think it was a $370 option and it puts the hitch frame in place, plus the bed holes are factory and the cover caps (in addition to electrical plug in the bed for connecting). From there, you can option up for the 5th wheel hitch (over $1000 I believe) or $250 for the ball and chain tie downs for gooseneck. I have found that you can purchase the correct ball and tie downs for less than $200 online (it seems this is a Reese Product).
 
#6 ·
That is a $350 option if you have the truck built with it. And, it includes the caps and plug in the bed.

I am not sure of how big a PITA it would be to install after the fact. Someone else will have to chime in. Good luck!
 
#7 ·
I can't imagine it would be too difficult...just time consuming.

I would disconnect all the wiring to the bed (lights, etc.) and get 3 or 4 buddies to help you lift the bed off. I would be real surprised if the mounting holes are not already in the frame, it would be easier for Ford to pre-drill them with all the other holes when the frame is made.

If hardware is not included, be sure to get good grade 8 bolts.

Mark
 
#9 ·
Drawtite and Anderson Goose Conv.

Just FYI got a 2001 350 dually and two saturdays ago install a Drawtite goose and the andersen ultimate 5th conversion. Drawtite=3+ hours on the ground and missed the bed hole by an 1/8". Drawtite and b&w same weight caps 7500 tongue and 30k trailer and andersen ultimate 4500 tongue 23k trailer but Drawtite cheaper and still very well built. 329+free shipping for drawtite and 409+free shipping for the ultimate. Only ten minutes to go back to an open bed:) Also just ordered a toeready plg for truck but have yet to install. 94 tax and shipping
 
#10 ·
Gooseneck

I just installed the Reese supplied kit that mounts under the box and
on top of the frame on my 2011 F350 . Two very heavy supports have
to be slid between the box and top of frame rail. You can either have
a 5th wheel or gooseneck application when the installation is complete.
Is this what you want to know ? I can let u know how it went if you want more info.
 
#12 ·
gooseneck

I have a 2011 F350 Ext.cab w/8'box . I ordered the #30126N kit
from Cequent Perf.prod.(Reese) . It fits 2011-12 F250-350 &450
with 6' & 8' box . Kit comes with tool to remove box bolts and all
hardware ..
I had to remove all 4 of the drivers side box bolts and unless the truck is near
new u may end up requiring a Ford supplied box bolt kit as they don't come
out easy and the Torx bit in the kit isn't the best quality. The Pass.side bolts
have to be backed off about 1 inch. I made some hard wooden wedges to raise the drivers side about 3-1/2 -4 inches to slide in the 2 frame base rails that sit on top of the frame rails.( Small jack may work also)
Yes , that much !!! The 30126n kit will work for both the 5th wheel hitch and
gooseneck installation. I had to drill 4 -2 1/2" holes as i was installing a 5th wheel. The kit says to cut the holes to 2 3/4 but 21/2" worked fine as no
2-3/4 hole saw available and I had a 2-1/2". The 2011 Ford has factory 5
little dimples where you drill the pilot holes . The center dimple is where you
cut the gooseneck hole.
After you get the the base rail brackets installed the box can be lowered but
leave the box bolts out or loose. The Side frame brackets are easy to install
and no holes have to be drilled . The forward drivers side bolt is near impossible to get the nut on and I ended up taking it to the Ford dealer to
have all the bolts torqued and install that one nut with a swivel head ratchet.
The supplied instructions were easy to read and well illustrated . I did
everything myself other that what i explained and I am 64 and not a
mechanic.. if you have any further questions , Just Ask... Snowbuzzard
 
#14 ·
I installed a B&W hitch in my 11 6.7 it was $380 on ebay with free shipping. Only had to drill the 4" hole in the center of the bed and 4 holes for the chain anchors. Took around 3 hours. Would be easier if you have someone help but I got it in by myself and it did come with good instructions. I pull a gooseneck quite a bit and haven't had a problem. also had one in my cummins before this and Dad has one in his duramax.
 
#15 ·
I installed the Reese kit like Snowbuzzard but I lifted the rear passenger side of the box with a cherry picker using the chrome tie down that is mounted inside the box. Snowbuzzard is also correct about the front bolt it is nearly impossible to get that in but it can be done.
 
#16 ·
Ford messed up and didn't get my hitch on the truck, So I just installed the B&W Turn over ball. It takes about 1 hour with a helper. You don't have to remove the bed bolts and you drill the one 4" hole and four 1/2" holes.

I use mostly the Gooseneck hitch. But I bought a B&W Companion hitch and have hauled a 5th wheel with that and it works great.

The B&W turn over balls are $399 and the companion hitch is $700, So much cheaper than the Ford prep. and I can haul both trailer types.
 
#17 ·
I also did the same install a few weeks after buying my truck. I wanted the factory ford hitch installed so I bought Reese hitch thru a local autoparts store. It was 3 different kits, rail kit, center goose kit and the ball kit. Just as snowbuzzard stated it was not very hard except that one bolt, I had a helper so it went smooth. I drilled all my holes first, took out all my bed bolts placed 2 4x4's between the drivers side bed and frame. Next placed the rails on the frame and started all the bolts. After that I installed the center goose adapter, lowered bed back down and center everything up. I also greased all the bed bolts (never know when you may have to remove one again) and torqued everything to specs. I really like this system allows you to pull either trailer but it is a little pricey to buy everything to do that. Just my 2 cents. If you would like to talk more, send me a private message for my number.
 
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