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Old 03-07-2012, 08:01 AM
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Need Help (Hitches)

I have a f-350 cc single wheel 6.5 foot box. I am looking at two reese hitches 30084 and 30142. One is a elite with no slider with no rails in the box. The other is elite head with a slider and rails in the box. Never had a slider but also like the idea of no rails in the box. Can't decide, they are the same price, and just wondering what everyone is pulling with.(pros and cons) Thanks
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:14 AM
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I have a B&W gooseneck flipball in my truck with a B&W fithwheel plate that drops into the receiver where the flipball goes. Not a lot of adjustment but the lack of adjustment has never been an issue for me. I love how clean it leaves my bed when I pull it out plus I can pull a fithwheel or a gooseneck. Excellent product all around.
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Old 03-07-2012, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Druknsailor View Post
I have a B&W gooseneck flipball in my truck with a B&W fithwheel plate that drops into the receiver where the flipball goes. Not a lot of adjustment but the lack of adjustment has never been an issue for me. I love how clean it leaves my bed when I pull it out plus I can pull a fithwheel or a gooseneck. Excellent product all around.
...
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:04 AM
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You didn't say what you are pulling. These newer 5th wheel RVs have better front cap design so you can turn a little more than the older equipment could, , , , but they are not perfect yet.

My 2012 Fusion has a very nice front cap and I could turn it pretty good with my 2011 F250 short bed. I had to use a 10 inch slider to go 90 degrees though.

You can get by with the Reese Elite in the factory prep package, or any fixed hitch, if you watch very closely when you are maneuvering. Straight down the road is no problem.

I think after you do some measuring and thinking, you may end up spending a little more now for a slider and have the peace of mind??

And YES, those rails in the bed suck!! If you go that way, be sure to come back and re-torque the rail bolts after each use until they stay tight. The rails will continue crushing the bed corrugation until it gets flat. I had 3200 lbs of pin weight and it took four trips to get them smashed so the bolts stayed tight. A co-worker did not check his bolts and lost more than half the nuts off them before he discovered his hitch was loose!!!
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:16 AM
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I don't mind bed rails. You can make anything to fit them.
Also, if installed PROPERLY, you will NEVER have to retorque the bolts. Supposed to be spacers under the rails and above above the bed.

My Samsung SGH-I997 made me send this.
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Old 03-07-2012, 09:56 AM
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My truck didn't come with the factory prep. Only option missed. I have a old camper that weighs 15000 lbs but thinking about getting a new one. So I guess I might go with the slider. Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:29 AM
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I like the Pullrite Super Gluide16K sliding hitch...it's automatic. I pull a 39' 5er with a 6.5 foot bed F350...never had a problem. I have used the hitch on 1999, 2005 and
2012 PSDs. The hitch is pricey, but it's solid and works flawlessly.
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Old 03-07-2012, 10:32 AM
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I had the pullrite super glide 24k before on my short box and it was the best 5 th wheel hitch I ever had. Very easy to use. I now have A DSP 5th wheel and gooseneck hitch for my long box, its ok but a pain in the *** too slide and change hitches because the holes never seem to line up. Good thing I don't need the slider anymore.
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:42 AM
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On short beds does everyone use a slider? I never had used a slider with any of my short beds and I haven't had a problem. Not sure why rv dealers are telling me that I have to use a slider. I haven't crushed the cab yet. lol
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Old 03-08-2012, 12:25 PM
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A sliding hitch, like the Pullrite, or new Reese, protects your 5th wheel from hitting your truck cab, or back window when you make a sharp right, or left turn. If your RV ever hits your cab/window, you will have to make two fixes...one to the truck and the other to your 5er. Neither will be cheap fixes.... Just my opinion...
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