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| General 6.7 Discussion General 6.7 Discussion |
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short bed pulling a 5th wheel
I recently traded my 08 longbed 6.4 for a new 6.7 2011 shortbed crewcab. I got a great deal on it but I am going to need to tow my 15,000 lb 5th wheel once in a while. Does anybody have any specific recommendations about going either with an extended hitch or a sliding hitch? I do currently have a reese elite hitch, minus the rails. Any help would be appreciated.
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i asked the same question and was told to go with a sliding hitch.they make one that does it automatically and i think that is what im going to go with,
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I have a Pullrite superglide that I have been using in a MegaCab Dodge and never have to worry about sliding the hitch or hitting the cab. It is super sweet! Looks like you and I are going in opposite directions as I will be buying a new F350 CCLB real soon.
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The sliding hitch works great at keeping the trailer from hitting the cab. If I had a short bed I wouldn't be without one. Good Luck.
Doug |
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heres a link to my thread for reference
short bed goose or fifth wheel |
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The Pullrite superglide is the cat's meow if you are going with an auto-slider. The SB Dodge is shorter than the Ford and I can get 90* with my fiver. I never have to worry about forgetting to slide it back before backing into a campsite or worry about pulling into to some station to get fuel and turning too short and having the 5er redecorate the back of the cab. One instance of forgetting to slide it and it hitting the back of the cab would more than pay for the hitch.
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yea thats what i was planning on doing.ive been driving trucks and trailers for a long time but anything that makes it easier is always a plus.
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I agree on the Super Glide, absolutely best slider out there and completely automatic.
Being automatic means you do not have to get out of the truck to release something or remember to put your tailgate down to clear the hitch when straighten out from a sharp turn with the slider to the rear. The 18K Super Glide (mine) moves back 14". The hitch is designed to allow about 16 degree turns before any fore and aft movement. After 16 degrees it starts a rearward motion relative to the rate of turn. I have the super rails for mine and that setup is now for sale since I have a long box truck coming next week. |
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wish i was in the states.i would definitely be interested
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To give an idea on what this looks like.
These pics are of my Heartland Cyclone (101" wide) hitched up and at 90 degrees to my GMC. Note: it is impossible to get to 90 degrees without backing, just don’t have the turning radius. And I would only do it on grass, gravel or sand. It really torques the wheels/tires and suspension. Typically with short bed trucks you don't get to choose where the center of the hitch goes, the way the mounts are shaped dictates position. On my SB GMC the center was just about centered over the axle. 1st pic you can clearly see I have enough clearance between my truck and trailer. Something to keep in mind, I am on level ground here. Any uphill grade for either the truck or trailer will decrease the clearance. That is a problem with my driveway and one campsite I go to every year. 2nd pic shows the hitch, in its full rearward position, that is 14” back. 3rd pic is the hitch in the forward position. Since this hitch works on a “cam” it is very smooth and always ready to slide. And I don’t have to worry about my tailgate. If you use a manual slider and forget to drop the tailgate you stand a good chance of wrecking it when the hitch comes back to center. Of course you also stand a good chance of wrecking the tailgate and the trailer if you are turning with the gate down. |
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