Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum banner

New 2016 F250 XLT and my mechanics suggestions and questions

2K views 14 replies 6 participants last post by  bander 
#1 ·
So I went and did it, went from the 7.3 to this new truck. I drove it off the lot with only 6 miles on it, didn't want anyone else's foot in it except mine. I kind of like it so far, keep in mind these questions and comments come from a guy (me) who still uses a 80's Motorola Razor flip phone...

I have been doing a great deal of reading and research as not to fudge this thing up and all it's smog crap up before it's time. I am in a "BIG BROTHER NAZI state, (Maryland) so deleting (like I know what it is or how to do it is feasible for me) is not an option, even after the warranty.

Took it on a trip to NY state, towing a 16' tin boat, (not what I would call real "towing weight", left it in non tow mode) I had the recommended 500 miles on it before I towed with it, actually around 750, so I figured I was good. Had 2 new 2.5 gal of Ford def with me and the special little funnel, the gage still says def below 1/2 full and it still hasn't reached the 500 miles to go until warning, yet and I haven't added any, yet. It now has 2700 miles on it and I just, for the first time, saw the cleaning exhaust system message day before yesterday. I assume it has run this cleaning exhaust program before the day before yesterday, like on the NY trip, but I never say the message while on the road, really wasn't looking for it though either.

I talked to a long time diesel mechanic, actually his son (who isn't too far off the mark knowledge wise, in my opinion) he and his dad only work on heavy trucks for the last 40 years. He took care of my 7.3 until I sent it down the road with over 200k on it and a bad pan.

Before I took off on the trip to NY, and after driving it around at varied speeds for 700 miles, I read somewhere that you should drive these things somewhat hard to keep the smog system happy. When I told my buddies son I had this new truck, he said, don't let it idle, change the oil every 3000 to 5000 miles and to use 15w 40 instead of the T6 and the other light weight syn's out there. I always use block heat during cold months and this thing has that other optional quick heat system as well. (I carry an extension cord...)

He also said that what Ford doesn't tell you is that, the when diesel gets injected into the DPF for cleaning, that certain amount goes into the oil pan. This seems very wrong to an old school guy like me, I can't stand the thought of this little tidbit of information!

He also said stay on the fuel filters, every oil change, no-brainer here.

When I first got the truck I checked the oil after a few hundred miles and it was in the hash area of the stick. Now I check it, after 2700 miles and its making it's just a little above the hash on the stick.


Questions:

Will the information system show exhaust cleaning no matter what screen is being displayed on the dash?

Think it's done a clean or two before I noticed this message for the first time the other day? Like on the trip, at high speeds?

Should I drain some oil out of the pan to get it back in the hash mark area? I have read nightmares about overfull sumps and smog system damage resulting.

Or should I just change the oil now? I am sure its pretty broken in, I ran it varied speeds and up to 70 - 80 mph, highway, on the NY trip.

Should I use the heavier 15-40 wt Rotella in this thing in the hopes that diesel in the oil wont knock the viscosity down as much as it would with a lighter weight? I hate the thought of engine oil being diluted with diesel. Jeeeezee, that sucks, big time. I'm thinking spun bearings and all kinds of other nasty chit.

Is the Ford fuel filter system good enough for the long term? I have been looking at that Diesel Site two stage system. All my farm gear runs two stage water separator/filters, I like it.

Will the Diesel Site system, if I install it, void the warranty?

Do I need to buy a fricking smart phone and aftermarket monitoring software for this thing?

Does the software keep track of the number of re-gens and show status of the smog system?

My apologies for the diatribe but I always do my own basic work and I am trying to learn about this hi tech thing here. Except for major, warranty work, this thing will never see any dealer service unless I know the guy it goes to and I am sure he is actually doing the work.

Thank You for any help!
 
See less See more
#2 · (Edited)
I can help you with some answers, but other guys are gonna have to chime in
1- yes the screen will pop up no matter what
2- yes it probably did 1 before you noticed, no big deal
3- no don't drain or change any out, it's probably expanded from the heat
4- I run the 15-40 just fine for the same reasons as you (change every 5k miles)
5- yes the stock fuel system is good as long as you stay on top of your fuel filters (there's 2) every 10k miles.
6- yes an aftermarket one will void the warranty, even if it is "designed to help"
7- just buy a cheap tablet & download the Torque app. All the info you could ever want.
8- yes the software will keep track but not available to consumer, you have to specifically ask for a report from ford so they can do it but not sure if they charge or not
9- this one is a freebie. Always top off the DEF fluid, never just add some. The sensors will act like you never added a drop even if you did a gallon. So if you're adding some make sure it's completely full, and give it 1-2 driving cycles before you see a change on the gauge
 
#3 ·
In response to the above

4)T6 is just fine.. many run this, I run mine till it tells me to change it soon (approx 7,300 miles), no reason to change it sooner and all oil analysis have proven this.

5) Change your fuel filters every other oil change, keeps it simple to remember and log all your servicing in your book (date, what you did, hours, etc) and keep your receipts.

6) An aftermarket one will NOT void your warranty, Ford will have a very hard time proving that extra filtration caused a failure. The filter is BEFORE the HPFP so it will not starve the pump unless you get water and that is exactly what you want it to do. The filter under the hood is the same micron as the diesel site so you are not even filtering down further (2 micron). I've had it for 1 1/2 years and have had no issues with servicing. On top of that, it even prevented water from passing through it. Highly recommended!!

9) I always wait till I get down to about 200-250 miles of DEF fluid. it will then take about 4.75 gallons leaving a couple inches left in the 2.5 gallon jug. With the Ford filler, you can't overfill it which is nice.
 
#4 ·
On #6 I could've sworn it was actually you who said it would void. The thread was about a week ago, I could be wrong on the you part but I know 100% fact somebody said that & I wanna say 1 possibly 2 people agreed
I'll look it up & see what I find. Not a big deal it's just bugging me now lol.
 
#6 · (Edited)
There has not been one person who has the kit that has posted on any of the forums that I belong to that has had their warranty void due to it.

Just because somebody says something, it b doesn't mean it is true. With 0 evidence that a warranty has been void, one can't really say that, can they?

Also, no different then putting in a inbed fuel tank with a filter on it. Since it is a low pressure portion, I do not see how Ford could actually blame a fuel filter.

And lastly, he is talking about adding a fass system, lift pump, lift kit lol. Like that has no shot of voiding your warranty over a simple fuel filter added in line using factory connections.
 
#7 · (Edited)
So in my opinion, I wouldn't drain any oil out of the pan.

I wouldn't change the oil until the light comes on. The PCM knows how much oil the is in the truck, it knows when you tow, it can calculate when to change it. Don't let it go past 10k. The most expensive thing you can put in your engine is cheap oil.

More fuel will pass through to the oil during the initial 5000mi until the rings seat.

The message will flash on the screen, but only for a few seconds, Regens usually occur every 500 miles at minimum.

The type of oil you use is up to personal preference, but if you tow for real(10k+) then 5w40 full synthetic is the best. It meets the severe requirement for all temperatures. Also when pulling heavy weight up grade these things run warm. EOT 245* is normal pulling grade, this is enough to start cooking conventional oil. A big rig has a 20 gallon sump, a light duty has a 4 gallon sump so less oil to go around. I have t6 in my stock 2012 and tow 14k often, 98k miles on the truck and an oil analysis shows it is performing perfectly with less than 1% fuel dilution at 7500 miles of use. I have mobil esp 5w40 waiting for the next change to see how she does. Plenty of folks use 15w40, and the fuel dilution makes sense, but it also has horrible cold flow that gets worse with use.

Every other oil change for the fuel filters is more than enough, HOWEVER be damn sure to drain the water seperator every month at least. It's mid ship drivers side, yellow knob. Drain into a clear container. If it is not clean fuel, keep draining until clean. Change them sooner if it's dirty. The diesel site filter is a great idea, but it's more about being vigilant. The second most expensive thing you can put in your truck is 'cheap' fuel. If you fill at the same place all the time and get bad fuel, go somewhere else.

Use ONLY Motorcraft filters. Air, Oil, Fuel. The other second most expensive thing you can put in your truck is cheap filters.

Do not let it idle for extended periods. Aside from the emissions getting soot loaded there is also wet staking, which is fuel dilution of your oil @ extended idle. If you tow heavy, let it idle for a few minutes before shutdown to allow the turbo to cool. Also when you get off the highway. A monitor will help with this, I won't shut mine down until EGT 1 is below 400*.

A monitor will show you when regen is occurring, how long since your last regen, and what your dpf status is.

As far as the DEF goes, don't bother carrying two jugs with you. The level sensor in these things suck. I top mine off before a big trip and fill at the truck stop. A tank of DEF should pretty much last for an oil change interval. It will read full, 60%, and low. It's not like a fuel tank at all. Just make sure you don't put it in your fuel tank, super obvious I know, but seriously don't put it in the fuel tank.
 
#9 ·
Doesn't the Diesel site in hook super easily? How long would it take to just take it off? It's not going to set a mil...

At the same time water in fuel damage is akin to sugar in the tank which falls under comprehensive coverage, the deductible for that is lower than the cost of the kit...
 
#11 ·
Yes, the Dieselsite hooks into the frame filter fairly easily and quickly unless you have a fuel tank such as I do. The Titan tank makes it difficult to unhook the lines on the top rear of the frame filter but can be done. Would take about 20 minutes to remove in normal situations with stock tank.

I have had the oil changed at 4 Ford dealers and not one has said anything about the Dieselsite filter on my truck.
 
#13 ·
I guess I should have said every 500 miles at maximum? I.e. the truck will regen at 500 if it needs to or not.

And you are correct in it is dependent upon driving habits, along with other factors. Idle time, operating temp, quality of fuel, ccv, load, egts, and I'm sure a host of others.

What kind of backwards conspiracy is it where you should burn more fuel to save the planet?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top