My projector retrofit completed tonight... Pics - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 59 Old 06-27-2014, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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My projector retrofit completed tonight... Pics

Wow, what a chore! Removing the lense wasn't even the hardest part. Removing it without breaking a tab or two I think is impossible. Also, popping out the reflector bowl snapped half a ball retainer. Luckily it still holds in well with the other half of the retainer still there.

Sanding down the OEM bulb socket base was easy and only took about a minute each on my belt sander.

Now the horrible part is aligning the headlights. You essentially need to put the back half in the truck and bolting it in. Takes forever to tweak. Then you must tweak again after tightening the projector bolt.

Now the most horrible part is resealing the lens to the body of the headlight assembly. I cleaned out as much of the permaseal as possible and put a butt load of butyl rubber seal down. I hope that stuff holds the lens on over time.

I'm happy with the results, but don't feel like the assembly is as sturdy as it was in OEM fashion. I'm sure it will hold up though. Good thing that there are some really great retrofit places about 4 hours from here.

Here are some pics. The cut off line is straight, I'm parked on an inclined driveway at an angle.

Parts:
Morimoto H1 projectors
Philips Ballasts
Orsam 4300k bulbs
Morimoto h13 relay
Amazon purchased butyl rubber











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post #2 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 05:06 AM
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Good job. I did mine several months ago and I agree it was a chore. I went with the 5k h1s and wish I would have opted for 4300s. Yours looks good. You are right aiming is a pain. Mine hope you have air bags because I hooked up a trailer and was blinding oncoming traffic. I got tired of adjusting up and down so it was a good excuse to add bags. Much easier to just add or let air out to keep the truck level.


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post #3 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 06:11 AM
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A chore but so worth it, look way better then stock. I'm at the aiming stage now but I've been putting it off cause it's only dark here for a few hours in the middle of the night but I need to do it before winter creeps up. What is used in the adjuster as far as tooling? I can see the adjuster from the top but can't definitively say it is an Allen key. Im kicking myself for not inspecting it before I put it all back into the truck. Thanks for the help!

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post #4 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 07:13 AM Thread Starter
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A really long Philips head screwdriver. The easy part is aiming up and down. The hard part of aligning.


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post #5 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Deerhunter4 View Post
Good job. I did mine several months ago and I agree it was a chore. I went with the 5k h1s and wish I would have opted for 4300s. Yours looks good. You are right aiming is a pain. Mine hope you have air bags because I hooked up a trailer and was blinding oncoming traffic. I got tired of adjusting up and down so it was a good excuse to add bags. Much easier to just add or let air out to keep the truck level.


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Did you feel comfortable that you resealed your housing well enough? I only ask because there are parts of the clear housing that didn't press back as deep into the groove as the original permaseal. I'm hoping that the butyl doesn't heat up and release the lens while I'm driving down the road. I hate that ford only put 1 small screw to hold the assembly. All those little tabs are a pain to realign and snap back into place. Some of them broke.

What challenges did you encounter and what concerns did you have after you completed yours? Im just trying to convince myself that I'm being paranoid.


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post #6 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 09:34 AM
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I used butyl and it sealed well enough. I haven't had any water or condensation issues inside the housing. That was my main concern. I just laid a layer of butyl and pushed the lens on and heated it. Once it was hot I put a ratchet strap a round to keep pressure till it cooled.


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post #7 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 11:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Deerhunter4 View Post
I used butyl and it sealed well enough. I haven't had any water or condensation issues inside the housing. That was my main concern. I just laid a layer of butyl and pushed the lens on and heated it. Once it was hot I put a ratchet strap a round to keep pressure till it cooled.


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Yeah, I did the same. This is what my spacing between the light and the body of the truck looks like. Can you check yours and see if it's similar?
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post #8 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 01:13 PM
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The 4300k looks good, whiter than I expected. I'm still torn between 4300k, 5000k, or 6000k. Each manufacturer's color seems to be slightly different even at the same temperature.
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post #9 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
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The 4300k looks good, whiter than I expected. I'm still torn between 4300k, 5000k, or 6000k. Each manufacturer's color seems to be slightly different even at the same temperature.
I've always preferred the 4300. That way there is more light on the road and color shift at the line. Did you gets your done and back?


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post #10 of 59 Old 06-28-2014, 04:28 PM
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Yeah, I did the same. This is what my spacing between the light and the body of the truck looks like. Can you check yours and see if it's similar?

Looks right to me.


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