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Oil Cooler Replacement

34K views 16 replies 6 participants last post by  mwe_060 
#1 ·
Going to replace my oil cooler and just need to know how messy it is? Trying to determine on letting a shop do it or do it myself in the garage. Any help or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!
 
#2 ·
What leads you to replace your oil cooler? There where a rash of folks that had high EOT (+245*F and going into reduced power) towing and found it to be an issue with the upper oil pan, a non serviceable check valve or something. Upper pan replacement means dropping the transmission.

As far as the oil cooler itself, you need to have the line disconnect tool and remove the lower oil pan, fasteners on the inside and out side.

If its the power of 6.OCD and watching your deltas all over the place this is totally normal.
 
#3 ·
This is on a 6.7. I sits right on the side of the engine and has 2 hoses. Why would I need to do anything with the pan?

As far a why, I have high (+245*F) going up the canyons hauling nothing, completely empty.

I have read several places that my oil cooler could be clogged. This is just a first step and what seems to be the cheapest. I already have all the parts and wanted to do it this weekend, so I just wanted to know if it is messy or not. I would assume that it is fairly empty when not running, but not really sure.
 
#4 · (Edited)
First I figured it was on your 12 6.7 in your profile, lots of folks go from a 6.0 to a 6.7 and you need to watch the EOT-ECT temp delta like a hawk, 6.0 oil coolers clog.

Second, there are 2 oil pans, an upper and a lower. The lower is the little 12" square on the very bottom, the upper is above that and is actually structural to the transmission bell housing.

The oil cooler has a sticker on the side of it telling you it is fastened from the inside. There are bolts around the outside and bolts on the inside of the upper oil pan. You would need to drain the oil and pull the lower pan off.

First thing I would do is get her good and hot, crawl under there and feel both oil lines to see if there is any difference in temp, or if they are even hot.

Or just replace it and hope you don't need a new upper pan.
 
#5 ·
Some of the earlier 6.7 had a nut on the inside. Not sure what model year it was deleted.

Here is the procedure for a 2014

Removal

Drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03B .

Remove the oil cooler inlet hose.

Disconnect the oil cooler outlet hose at the lower radiator hose outlet. Disconnect the coolant hose retainers from the upper oil pan.

NOTICE: In the event of catastrophic engine failure, always install a new oil cooler assembly. Foreign material cannot be removed from the oil cooler and engine damage may occur.

NOTE: On late build vehicles, the internal nut is no longer on the oil cooler and the lower oil pan does not have to be removed.

Remove the 7 bolts for the oil cooler assembly.

For late build vehicles, remove the oil cooler.

Remove and discard the gaskets.

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

If necessary, remove the lower oil pan. For additional information, refer to Oil Pan — Lower in this section.

NOTICE: Failure to remove the nut from the oil cooler may result in damage to the oil cooler.

NOTE: The nut is located inside the upper oil pan.

If equipped, remove the oil cooler nut and oil cooler.

Remove and discard the gaskets.

Clean and inspect the sealing surfaces.

If necessary, remove the oil cooler outlet hose from the oil cooler.


Installation

If necessary, install the oil cooler outlet hose onto the oil cooler.

NOTICE: In the event of catastrophic engine failure, always install a new oil cooler assembly. Foreign material cannot be removed from the oil cooler and engine damage may occur.

Using new gaskets, install the oil cooler assembly and 7 bolts.

Tighten finger-tight.

NOTICE: Failure to tighten the oil cooler nut first may result in oil cooler damage or leaks.

If equipped, install the oil cooler nut.

Tighten to 24 Nm (18 lb-ft).

Tighten the 7 oil cooler bolts. Tighten in the sequence shown.

Tighten to 10 Nm (89 lb-in).

If necessary, install the lower oil pan. For additional information, refer to Oil Pan — Lower in this section.

NOTE: Remove the plugs or caps from the openings.

Connect the oil cooler outlet hose at the lower radiator hose outlet. Connect the coolant hose retainers to the upper oil pan.

NOTE: Remove the plugs or caps from the openings.

Install the oil cooler inlet hose.

NOTICE: Evaluate the cooling system condition before filling the engine cooling system. Failure to follow these instructions can result in damage to the engine.

Evaluate the cooling system condition. For additional information, refer to Cooling System Condition Evaluation in Section 303-03B .
 
#7 ·
#9 ·
Not externally or visually. You can try removing the oil cooler and if no nut, the 7 bolts will remove it. Otherwise, you will need to drop pan.

But back to the original question asked by Durapig Eater, what makes you think the oil cooler is bad? I see 245 temps when towing up hills but drops back to normal once over the hill. This is not uncommon with the 6.7 engine. To me, sounds like your oil cooler is doing its job correctly.

What year is your truk?
 
#11 ·
The hidden stud was removed for 2012 m/y
Generally, if you have a stamped steel lower oil pan from factory, it won't have the stud
 
#12 · (Edited)
There it is, plastic pan =inner nut. Mine literally has a sticker on it saying fastened from inside. Basically if you take the outside bolts off and it doesn't come right off don't try to pry it off.

Also I would just get some line clamps from harbor freight and not drain the coolant. But if it's clogged on the coolant side the old cooler goes back on an a triple flush then put the new cooler on.

Maybe feel which line is hot first, clamp both lines off and back flush with the garden hose and some fittings starting from the cooler side then back and forth till clean, finish with compressed air? Similar to a clogged heater core. this is assuming that there are rubber portions to the lines, my truck is at the shop getting undercoating so i don't know for sure.

If its clogged it's likely to be clogged on the coolant side, and that could be indicated by coolant condition, mileage vs service interval and such.

Also assuming you have a monitor and are seeing actual oil temps while driving.
 
#13 ·
Hope it's not the restrictor in the upper pan. Not a very fun job haha.
As durapig eater mentioned, try getting the engine hot, then check inlet and outlet hose temps at the cooler. A thermo gun will be beneficial for accuracy. As always, you want the most information in the least intrusive manner
 
#16 ·
You got more gauges than a DC3!

What mount do you have for your phone and tablet?

If I wasn't such a glasses diva, where you have your MM would be the perfect spot for a camper cam. Gotta have 2 each polarized, and clear safety, then one each tinted safety, amber shooters, and backup prescription...

7 pairs, maybe I have a complex....
 
#17 ·
here ya go. . check your oil sump screen too. If you need to go further up let me know. Ill post the info on it.
 

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