Been doing some searching and reading on the subject. I can across an old thread that said someone had a side by side pic of the older pan compared to the newer pan. But couldn't find the thread. Anyone have a link? Been wanting to do it but put it on the back burner. How much is the new pan and filter and are they the only two things that need to be replaced?
My early 08 had the external bell housing filter with the screen internally inside the trans. Don't know when they updated to the internal filter if it was later 08 or if it started in 09. When talking to the dealership didn't know if all I needed as a filter and pan only or if I needed anything for the filter to mount to the trans etc?
Oh yeah I remember now IIRC get the 08.5 updated pan & filter. It just bolts right up. Some guys remove the little in line filter but I just left mine in and change it, but I understand you don't need it anymore. Might save some money because that is the most expensive toilet paper I've ever seen hehe.
OK - realize this is an old thread but I've read all over the place and still can seem to figure this out. Hoping some of the gurus that have helped me out in the past will chime in.
Like the OP, I have a Job 1 2008 model with the external "can" filter on the bell housing. I do not have the "toilet paper" filter (or if I do it's very well hidden). My Trans Fluid Temp Sensor is on the fritz, so I'll be dropping the pan to replace it. Figured I'd do the filter at the same time, started doing the research, and am now leaning toward doing the upgrade to the Derale pan and using the updated internal filter as discussed in this thread.
What I'm not clear on is what to do with the old external can filter. Some people have mentioned making their own adapter lines or bypass blocks, however the details here seem to be elusive. Since I don't have a fully equipped fab shop at my disposal, what are my options? Does anyone make bypass lines (or block or whatever) to take the place of the filter that I can buy online? Anybody made one of these lines themselves that can provide some info, or maybe drilled out the original, or done something else?
I'd like to do this upgrade, but considering I drag a ~12k pound toyhauler pretty regularly I want to make sure it's done right. Suggestions?
For future reference to other folks here's what I ended up doing: With plans to use the fittings off the old filter to make some bypass tubes of some sort I bought a new one from NAPA to have around just in case I screwed up - cost was about 120. As ZMANN mentioned the can has 2 inlet and 2 outlets. What's interesting is that you can literally see straight through both passages - the lower "passage" (the one closest to the ground) has a tube that goes from one side to the other - so it's a straight shot for the fluid. The top "passage" is basically 2 fittings on either end of an empty can. I'm assuming there's some filter media down in the bottom that traps particulate, but regardless I can't imagine that thing being left in place causing any problems one way or another - assuming the fittings aren't leaking... I attached a crude drawing of what I envision a cross section of this thing would look like in case it might help someone down the road (and yes, you could see straight through both the new one and the old one I removed).
So I ruled out the bypass lines since the filter itself is basically a straight shot anyway as best I can tell. After some head scratching and soul searching I ended up putting the new filter in - just cuz I already had it, and I figure I might as well considering the Mercon SP was 9 bucks a quart. (found that in stock at the local O'rielly by the way) The new filter came with new fittings for the lines on the cooler side of the filter (passenger side) - like some folks have said those things are a MF'er to get off if you don't have the right tool. I ended up just leaving the old ones on since they weren't leaking to begin with, but you've got my condolences if you have to replace 'em and you don't have the special tool.
The Derale pan with the newer style tranny filter went in nicely, as did the replacement fluid temp sensor. All in all a piece of cake as long as you don't mind a few surprise tranny fluid showers here and there (transmission fluid that is) - just watch a video or 2 about it on YouTube and you'll know when to expect them. The existing fluid looked pretty clean as did the pan so I didn't do a full flush - just replaced what I drained out of the pan with new stuff and added the extra for the larger pan. Ended up taking 17 quarts to fill her back up, so considering the 9 or so quarts I've read that it takes with a normal pan if you don't do the flush, that estimate of the Derale adding 7-8 quarts is about right.
Total parts/cost:
Derale pan ~130 bucks from Summit
Can filter ~ 120 from NAPA
17 Quarts Motorcraft Mercon SP ~ 9 bucks each from O'Rielly
Newer style transmission filter (Motorcraft) ~ 50 bucks from O'Rielly
Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor ~ 20 bucks from the local stealership.
Wrench light caused by the bad sensor went off immediately - took the check engine light a day or so and it went out on it's own too. Haven't towed with it yet, but just driving back and forth to work the tranny temps are maybe 5 degrees cooler than I was seeing before, and for some strange reason the lie-ometer is telling me I'm getting about 0.2 MPG better than before. Not sure I can explain that one or attribute it to the stuff I just described, but hey I'll take it - especially with the new diesel tax these communist a-holes here in California added.
So that's my 2 cents worth for whoever happens to run across this next - hope it helps the next guy.
Is there a part number for the can filter your referring to? Was looking at doing either a flush or filter replacement on mine, and if I'm dropping the pan for the filter I might as well replace it with the derale while it's off.
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