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radiator leak

3K views 29 replies 9 participants last post by  CrazyS0b 
#1 ·
so I think I have lost another radiator........ small wet spot on driver side bottom of rad.
I am now searching which rad to buy but I have another question

is there a step by step written anywhere on this as it is so frequent? I searched but came up empty. thanks.
 
#2 ·
Tons of info, search radiator, mishmoto, coolant. Body mounts probably need replaced, can search that too.
 
#3 ·
I can't speak to any step by step procedure, like mentioned above, try a search.

As far as which radiator, my opinion would be a Mishimoto. I know they have made some improvements to their 6.4 radiator design. Also lifetime warranty and they monitor this site and provide great customer service.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Man, I read these all the time, and... I feel for y'all... I've yet to experience this, but that hasn't stopped me from forming an opinion on the subject.

I've spared y'all until now, I guess. But, here goes:

Thermal expansion and uneven distribution of heat. It's my contention that issues arise not over miles or age, but cycles instead. It's a thermal wall and is best explained by saying a hot pressurized liquid being pressed into a cold stationary liquid creates a momentary boom, akin to thunder. That collision creates a shock that, each time it happens, weakens the union. The weakest link is where the container meets the manifold and at the line where hot meets cold.

I know there are people smarter than me here, let there be no challenge about that, and I know mishi has spent a good pile of cash researching and developing a fix... I think that body mounts is misplacing effort, though. It's just my opinion, and has no value outside of that.

In my humblest opinion, I'd like to see owners do one of two things... One contradicts other concerns (such as economy and wet stacking), and is allowing the truck to warm up slowly, as in stationary, before operation. When the thermostat opens in a short period as opposed to slowly over minutes, and pumps a large volume through the radiator suddenly, you'll get that thunder that wreaks havoc on radiators.

The other, also in my humblest opinion and interjection, is an old fashioned hot rodder trick from way back in my past: before installing thermostats, drill three tiny and opposing holes in the blades.. 12, 4, and 8 o'clock... No more than a 16'th... This allows fluid to pump through the blades even while they're closed, which introduces heat to the radiator slower, makes warm ups last longer, but won't have affect on overall operating temperature (the exchange surface, volume of coolant, and flow of both air and fluids dictate cooling efficiency, not when the events happen).....

That is my speel... Maybe there is something to it, and maybe there isn't. I didnt come by this originally, exactly, but instead by applying data collected from aircraft cooling exchanges... Google 'football radiator' and read.. when you find it, you'll likely have an 'a-ha' moment, too.

Disregard googling... linky linky
 
#8 ·
You are crazy for thinking that! I cant believe you would even mention such a thing!

Sorry you are much smarter than me so that was all the controversy I could spark LOL :haha:
 
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#10 ·
It isn't a matter of being smarter... It is a matter of retaining info and being able to apply that knowledge toward a given task.

Now... If you can give us the perfect solution then I will agree that you are actually smarter than your dog :p
 
#11 ·
If I'm right, I suspect tapping the blades on the thermostat like I said will fix the issue... Other than that simply allowing the engine to warm up slowly will stop it. Its when you're running down the road at 1800rpm and the temp reaches 188* or so and the stat starts to open, and then about a minute later the internal coolant is at full 195* and the stats wide open, pushing 1800rpm of 195* volume through that poor radiator of coolant likely below ambient temp due to the air flow that's the problem I suggest.

Water doesn't compress, period... But... Moving hot water being thrust into stationary cooler water creates a shock wave or hydraulic thermal impact, and that is precisely what I suggest weakens the junction over a period of time. On an aside, I also think this might play in the single o ring as opposed to the double o ring of updated hoses... They didn't fix the issue with the double rings, they just made the product of the issue stronger to deal with it more.
 
#12 ·
While I cant directly argue with any of the logic you have presented, I would simply say that millions of consumer cars with inferior cooling systems to ours don't have that issue.

Countless people jump in their car in 0 degree weather and haul *** to work for hundreds of thousands of miles.

Also, thermostats don't "snap" open or shut, and being that we have two at different temps, it should be a relatively slow opening.
 
#13 ·
Never said they snapped open.

Few cars move the volume of fluids our diesels do, but it's not even that- The weakness of the radiators is the issue... I suggest, since even the mighty mishi has issues, that we should consider doing something else about the weakness, since it's obvious the weakness itself ain't gettin fixed. That's why I suggest what I have.
 
#14 ·
I agree something needs done, not trying to argue with you, just further the conversation :nod:

My thought has always been to implement some sort of floating mount, which Mishimoto has essentially done with their new rubber mounts. I'm not familiar enough with the mounting systems of other vehicles to say how ours compares to them either though.
 
#15 ·
I didn't mean it defensive, bro... When I type mobile at a stop light it always comes off that way, though..

I was under my truck quite a bit today, changing oil, fuel filters, doing that bypass oil filter and cooler line gadget, and wondering about cleaning the innards of my intercooler.. those mounts are toast... But I've not any issue, knock on wood, with leaking radiators.
 
#16 ·
Drew how are you going to clean the intercooler? I am thinking about cleaning mine also when I change the oil.
 
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#17 ·
I'm thinking a radiator shop... They can hot dip it and blow it clean... The alternative is to remove it and clog the bottom, use simple green, greased lightning, ect.. in heavy concentration and shake it up, letting it sit for a bit, and then.chasing it out with water as hot as I can get it... Until it's clean... I also hear dawn dishwashing soap works well..

A radiator shop can do it better than I can, though, and it'll likely be less than a benjii...

After pulling my ccv catch can to atmosphere and cleaning it this weekend, and thinking of all those miles without it, I can't help but think I'd see likely a hundred degree drop in EGT's at cruising speeds. I bet I'll spool quicker, too... I'm also gonna swap that cac smashed flat by Ford with a good steady bend tube.
 
#20 ·
.chasing it out with water as hot as I can get it... Until it's clean... I also hear dawn dishwashing soap works well..
I used to hook a garden hose to the drain of the hot water heater at my shop when I needed really hot water for stuff like this (threads were same size). Just a thought :dunno:
 
#18 ·
I have tried several radiator shops here in NM and they told me they cant clean it. I guess I will go with the dawn dish soap and purple power route :nod:
 
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#19 ·
It ought not be a big deal... They come off easy enough, and aren't so big you can't get a pvc block plug for one end (rubber with expansion bolt in center)..... Just... For the love of all that's holy, don't use something combustable... The gassers use gas... And it works very well.. would for us, too, until we tried to start it... They can get by with that because that's what it drinks, and because they've a sturdey throttle body which regulates the air better than ours.

I've read, though, where guys have done this and said they refound power they'd lost and not been able to find... And if you think about it, it definitely creeps up on you gradually so as there would be no sudden 'discovery'... This came to my attention after I blew a lower boot last week.. I thought "why now?", and I think this is my answer.
 
#22 ·
Fill the intercooler with soap/chemical and water and sit it in the sun to get up to temp? Or maybe have a bonfire? haha, just an idea!

Or make a hot water loop so you're circulating hot water and cleaner through it while heating it?
 
#25 ·
HighJack

So my question is- Does this happen mostly on 4X4 trucks or trucks are used on very rough roads or offraod? How many radiators do the 2 wheel drive city street driven trucks go through? I had posted this question years ago without any answer. I personaly think that body flex is most of the issue. Sorry to highjack this thread.
 
#27 ·
So my question is- Does this happen mostly on 4X4 trucks or trucks are used on very rough roads or offraod? How many radiators do the 2 wheel drive city street driven trucks go through? I had posted this question years ago without any answer. I personaly think that body flex is most of the issue. Sorry to highjack this thread.

This is certainly one of the theories... And likely trufe.. :). But it may not be the only truth, because it seems to afflict without concern for purpose or environment.. it just happens.
 
#28 ·
I think it has a lot to do with variances in build of the truck/body as well... Remember this is happening on the 6.7's too. Just not to the same extent because they are using an updated radiator design. Some of us (I have a VERY early job1...) even with early model trucks have had literally no problems, yet others even 2010s have huge radiator problems. I also don't really tow much, my truck is just my hobby. She does not get beat on meaning there isn't much heat or pressure for the radiator to deal with. What I have been wondering (No I haven't looked at a diagram yet...) is where does the hot coolant from the egr coolers flow to? I was under the impression it was fed directly through the radiator by the routing of the coolant hoses...

What I have been thinking is can we link egr failure to damaged radiators. It may not have much to do with the coolant heat itself, but more to do with the pressure involved if the coolant boils. Or, could failed degas cap be creating an area of low pressure within the radiator (an air bubble if you will due to excess pressure or lack there of...). There are so many variables here that I am wondering if we are missing something all together. Body flex is the obvious culprit, but I don't think it is the only problem here. You may have been onto something with your thermal shock theory.
 
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#30 ·
Your theory of thermal shock made me wonder if those pressure variances are the beginning then the body flex is what is "popping" the plastic end... That doesn't really explain the mishi failures... I think they are just too rigid to work in this kind of application.

I actually know of more 6.7's with blown radiators around my area than 6.4s. The biggest problem people seem to have around here with 6.4s are the damn belt tensioners lol. I know a guy that goes through a set every 6 months... Granted he buys them from auto zone, but still...
 
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