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Before I consider buying a 6.4??

20K views 50 replies 10 participants last post by  racerx250 
#1 ·
Hey guys I'm brand new to powerstroke forms and signed up because I'm thinking about getting a 6.4 or maybe a 6.7, but looking at a 6.4 seriously right now. I found a 2008 with the special "badlander" package. Really like the truck, and it's in my price range. The mileage is 174,000 but thats about almost every trucks mileage in my price range ha but it doesn't bother me. It has an H&S turner but the ad doesn't say which kind. If it's not the mini max or black max I'll be either getting one or an sct. Also the dpf has been deleted. I haven't been able to see the truck in person but when I do I'll check around the radiator to make sure there isn't any residue or sign of coolant. Also if I do decide to buy it id be putting on the egr/ egr coolant delet kit from flow pro. Here's the link to make sure it's everything I need to completely get ride of the egr problems because I don't even want the slightest chance of it getting coolant into the motor.

http://performancetruckproducts.com...er-delete-08-10-powerstroke-6-4l#ReviewHeader

I'm on the fence about this because I had a 2006 6.0 and it was a complete nightmare but I loved the power when it was up and running. So I just wanna hear what yall think about this truck before I give it anymore thought. Thanks for any info.

Here's the link to the ad for the truck:

http://www.cordovacars.com/2008-For...l-Lift-35s-Programmer-Tennessee-38016/5466912
 
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#2 ·
You will get a few good in depth responses to really help you out, but I will say this, budget a minimum 5k over what you are going to spend on the truck.

Sure, not every truck will have issues, but I can guarantee you will need to put money into something. Especially tuned at 174k, and being an 08

I bought an 09 that was well taken care of with 115k on the clock 2 weeks ago. The bill from Ford when it went into limp mode 2 days after purchasing was $2,300... cash...

Put a new exhaust and spartan tuner on it, now the tuner is frozen and it wont start. This is the stuff you have to be prepared for. I got mine for 20k cash, and right now have right at 30k in it. EGR delete, intake, tuner, exhaust, repair bill, tires and wheels, etc.

There will be little things that come up, and little things on these trucks costs a LOT of money. Oil alone is going to be $90-$100 per change, not including the filter which is $40 from Ford, or $25ish online. Oil needs changed every 5k miles, fuel filters every other change.

You are going to want to change all fluids, minimum of a few hundred $$ right away...

Anyway, without rambling anymore, find a clean truck and then add $5k. That will put you close. In some cases, add $10k... all depends on how lucky you are
 
#3 ·
Just looked at that truck you posted, I would not touch it with a 10 foot pole. My .02
 
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#7 ·
I think it's a pretty good looking truck, but just because something looks good doesn't mean it operates the same. It's hare to judge a book by its cover, so its hard to say to just run for the hills from something. I can speak from experience on this, mine looked great, but bit me in the arse with some major mechanical issues. It's almost a guessing game, a flip of the coin....either bite the bullet and buy it and see what happens, hoping for the best.....or like I said before, just run for the hills and avoid it all together.
 
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#9 ·
My thoughts: I dont like buying 1) A used truck that has been lifted 2) A used truck that has been lifted with high mileage 3) A used truck with high mileage and no warranty 4) A used truck with high mileage, no warranty, a lift, and a tuner = $$$

Extra stress on all drive line from the lift and tires, then extra stress from the tuner. And my guess, it was not owned by an old man who used it to get groceries and travel to his time share.

The truck I bought is an 09 F330 SRW, never used to tow, daily driver, ALL STOCK with 115k on the clock. Bought it from an individual, met the owner, discussed maintenance, etc. I felt GOOD about the purchase. I had a repair bill for $2,390 from Ford less than 4 days after picking it up. No ones fault but the trucks.

It cant happen to you, until it happens to you. And most likely, it will. If I had to choose between those 2 trucks, I would talk them down on the 6.7 and delete the 6.4 from my computer. Not even a question. Thats knowing nothing about the trucks other than looking at them, and year, mileage, etc
 
#10 ·
They are both a lot of money, for that many miles on them. The first one I would run away from "Can you Say Run Forrest...Run." Of course who am I to talk. I do not have any experience with a Late Model super Duty. he first one I would run as fast as I could away from it. The second one is 4 years old and that's a lot of miles for 4 years old. Just my thoughts. I am looking at buying new. I don't want some one else's head aches. I have a truck that's 20yrs old and is now starting to nickel and dime me so it's time to buy new.
 
#16 ·
Trucks with modifications and low(lower)miles will generally "command" more money, but doesnt necessarily mean its worth it to a lender....even though, we as consumers/addicts know that this type of vehicle is more desirable
 
#17 ·
It's a used dealership and the good thing about the 6.7 is that it's bone stock but hopefully the miles are just from highway but I have a buddy that's done a lot of work for us and he's one of the main diesel guys at the ford dealership so I'd get him to check it out really well before I buy
 
#18 ·
Thats the only way I would do either of them, if you could have them gone through with a fine tooth comb prior to buying.

Even then, prepare for the unexpected. Mine when I bought it just 2 days prior to limping into the dealer would have checked out just fine. S*** happens.

With the number of problems the 6.4 has, buying one with high milage is a risky proposition. Buying one with high miles and modifications, with no knowledge of the prior owner is just stupidity. IMO.

The price for either is too high, especially with the trim package on the 6.7, bench seat, etc. I might take it home for 17k, knowing its going to need some $$ and proper maintenance to get it to where I would want it.
 
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#21 ·
Every thing LandCrusier is saying is the way to go.
Both of these vehicles are way over priced, Also check into where this dealership got this truck from most likely they got it at the Auction. 9 times out of 10 vehicles that come form the auction don't have clean titles make sure you get a Carfax on this truck. Better yet I would take a picture of the vin#, go to the Carfax web site and pay the money for a copy of the Carfax. Have your friend that's the mechanic explain it to you if you are not clear on anything in the report. Just another thought, hope this helps you. Good Luck.
 
#19 ·
Yeah I was planing on try to get them down on the price considering the miles and the trim package. Hopefully they can get right with the price. Are the egr deletes need as bad on the 6.7 as the 6.4? Or would a dpf delete and tuner be good for the 6.7?
 
#22 ·
Man, y'all are a tough crowd.

I would take issue with the price, but a lifted and tuned truck doesn't scare me much.

If the mods are done right, and early, they're a good thing. I'd rather have a 175k mile used truck tuned and deleted at 50k than a stock truck. The regeneration is hell on everything from turbo seals (excess heat prolonged periods) to valve seats and guides (pressure and heat) to lubrication issues (diluted oil) and all grades of places in between. The crank case ventilation mod being presented would indicate to me a person had interest beyond performance about his trucks health. An aftermarket lift pump, same thing. Inspecting the filters would be a must, running an iuoa, laying the oil tower cap on without threading it a must, to get notion of blow-by.

There is a difference between a modded used truck, and a ran hard and ragged out truck. A ragged out truck may or may not be modded.

Wanna take one serious before buying? It'll cost you- but do something a dealer would never expect and something they won't do to a truck unless there is cause to do- get a look at the transmission fluid and the differential fluid.. If it's new? They're hiding something.. If it's used? Get an analysis... The diff is where the power meets the leverage, and it'll tell you stories other places can hide. The transmission will tell you how hard it's been ran, too, with clutch material and heat cycles apparent in a iuoa.. you can have the coolant tested...

But anyway.. don't be afraid of mods.. a delete is a good thing if done early.. An egr gone would be the only way I'd buy a used north of 150k mile truck... Ccv mod is a good thing. Coolant filter is a good thing.. lift pump, good thing.. it shows that someone cared for that rig. Big beefy tires and gaudy lift w/o those mods? Stay away.. someone wanted to play without doing it right, and the truck suffered because of it. I like a lifted truck as much as the next dude, but that came last and after the basic mods for longevity were done.
 
#23 ·
Wow thanks I'll defiantly be looking for all the tell tell signs. Speaking of the transmission fluid test, is that something a dealer could do? If not how could I get it tested? And also a couple of yall mention the lift and stuff being a bad sign but I'm pretty sure it was put on almost when it was knew since its a special edition "badlander" not just a previous owner went to a shop and got lift and tires. It kinda reminds me of how Chevy and gmc have their prelifted "black widow" trucks for sale now. But either way the lift wouldn't be on for long considering I want an 8" lift.
 
#24 ·
Also if I do decide on either one of these trucks depending on how the check out, what is a fair price for each of them? Since everyone is in aggremment with the prices are too high, I just wanna make sure I'm paying a fair price for what I'm getting. An no doubt I will have either of these vehicles gone through with a fine tooth comb considering my previous 6.0 nightmare and the couple problems from the 6.4.
 
#25 ·
You're not gonna want a dealer to analyze it.. you're gonna want an independent joint like Blackstone to analyze it, instead.

The differential fluid, if not outfitted with a drain plug, will be hard to get to without replacing it. Unless you wanna get fancy and go in through the vent line. The transmission fluid is easy enough... An analysis will run you $25 each, but in concert with a full inspection by another independent mechanic, is a drop in the bucket...... I emphasize that last bit. Get the truck thoroughly inspected before you pull the trigger regardless of what the dealership says. If they don't want you inspecting it, then there is a reason.... And reason enough to not even respond to them, just look at them a brief second and about face- march to the exit.
 
#26 ·
Prices are across the board, man, and largely dependent on geography.

I sold a 2002 ram to a Marine for asking price, and while turning others away who actually offered more than asking price after the first offer... What that tells me is I could have asked more, but the price was fair to me... So...

I would have gotten less than 75% of what I was asking anywhere away from a military base with young warriors returning from war. I'd built that 25% into the price, actually. There are some places I wouldn't have gotten 50% of what I wanted... But anyway, you get the point.
 
#27 ·
Sorry I should have clarified, when I said dealer I meant since my buddy works at the ford dealer when I take it to him is the transmission fluid something he could look at and tell if it's been rode ruff or not. Or do I need to go to a specific shop to get that analyzed. I don't trust hardly anything the dealer selling the truck says lol
 
#29 ·
I'm with drew... Knowing what I know now about diesel engines, I would prefer a properly modified Powerstroke engine with higher mileage than a somewhat lower mileage stock truck.
 
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#31 ·
Im pretty sure, from experience, quite a lot of major stuff requires cab off the chassis. Ive had mine off 3 times....it gets a tad pricey. Its not always the ONLY option, but it is the best for who is working on it, your wallet just sacrifices...try to plan cab off projects for 1 trip if possible. Mine just came at terribly inopportune times and I wasnt that lucky.
 
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#32 ·
Do you want a work horse or a play toy? If its a play toy, pick the 6.4, with that being said, put away $12K. You will be replacing the HPFP, injectors, up pipes, after market fuel system, coolant filter, rocker arms, pulleys, alternator, all sooner then later. If your after a workhorse, grab a lightly used 6.7 with a known background and some sort of warranty left on it or new.
 
#33 ·
Rumrun : So for a modded tuned 6.4 get ready for the hit…. But How about a nice car fax with lots of oil changes from 2009 to now stocK with 100K ? Will it be ok? maybe a DPF delete, tuner and that should give me 200 300 more? I just watched the marathon youtube of power stroke help and he is absolutely stoked with the 6.4….
 
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