H&S Shifting - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 28 Old 04-04-2014, 08:45 AM Thread Starter
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H&S Shifting

Hey was just wondering what the best shift schedule to use for the track with the h&S and running the HD300 tune

any and all input is wanted

Thanks

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post #2 of 28 Old 04-04-2014, 08:53 AM
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latest shift, latest lock- puts more torque to the terra per engine rev without exception.
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post #3 of 28 Old 04-04-2014, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
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I am currently running the s1m. Is that ok? Or should I move up to the latest lock possible? I feel like once the torque converter locks it just pulls a lot harder which seems better for the track. Not really sure tho

06 f350 Lariat metallic gray and black
4.5 inch rough country lift
35 inch nitto trail grapplers
4 inch mbrp straight pipe 6 inch tip
SCT tuner
Tinted cab, tail, mirror lights


08 F250 Lariat Oxford white
4 inch straight pipe
SoFlo 7" Stack
H&S Mini Maxx HD tuned
Studded
Egr delete
Rudys Fuel Bowl Delete
Air Dog
MBRP CAC Pipe
Nitto 420s
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post #4 of 28 Old 04-04-2014, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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i have heard of alot of people locking the converter as sson as they can for the track.

06 f350 Lariat metallic gray and black
4.5 inch rough country lift
35 inch nitto trail grapplers
4 inch mbrp straight pipe 6 inch tip
SCT tuner
Tinted cab, tail, mirror lights


08 F250 Lariat Oxford white
4 inch straight pipe
SoFlo 7" Stack
H&S Mini Maxx HD tuned
Studded
Egr delete
Rudys Fuel Bowl Delete
Air Dog
MBRP CAC Pipe
Nitto 420s
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post #5 of 28 Old 04-04-2014, 09:09 AM
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the t/c locking simply places all the effort on the engine, and removes the fluid coupler (torque converter) from duty, for all practical purposes.. it's still there, obviously, but the engines crank and the input shaft of the trans has been mechanically locked.

there are several different types of stall... the stall that you're feeling when the t/c LOCKS is what's referred to as 'flash stall', or 'flare stall'...

I like using a bucket of water and a paddle as my examples of 'splaining this.. if you have said bucket of water in front of you with a paddle stuck in it, and you start twirling that paddle- the time it takes for the water to start swirling in the bucket at the same speed you are spinning the paddle describes flash stall.. *you may spin that paddle four or five revolutions before the water matches speed..

while your t/c is UNLOCKED, you feel a softer 'hook up', because the fluid (atf) is absorbing the change in torque (spinning power)... when it LOCKS, every bit of power the engine produces is being delivered to the input shaft of the transmission, which may be a good thing (if you're slightly under-loading the engine) or a bad thing (you're bogging it down and it's struggling to achieve RPM's because of that)....

in a 1/4 mile run, you're a lot better off allowing the t/c to remain unlocked in order to build those RPMs and have it translate to input shaft spin... when it does lock, later down the track, those extra RPM's will be translated to extra speed (or your perceived 'hook up') because all the initial effort to get that thing rolling has been satisfied, and inertia becomes your friend.

*- better torque converters, or ones that are designed for a specific purpose and not a wide range of function are more efficient, and can lower the flash/flare stall to almost nothing- but at the cost of generating a lot of heat.

Last edited by drewactual; 04-04-2014 at 09:15 AM.
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post #6 of 28 Old 04-04-2014, 09:14 AM Thread Starter
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understood. thank you

06 f350 Lariat metallic gray and black
4.5 inch rough country lift
35 inch nitto trail grapplers
4 inch mbrp straight pipe 6 inch tip
SCT tuner
Tinted cab, tail, mirror lights


08 F250 Lariat Oxford white
4 inch straight pipe
SoFlo 7" Stack
H&S Mini Maxx HD tuned
Studded
Egr delete
Rudys Fuel Bowl Delete
Air Dog
MBRP CAC Pipe
Nitto 420s
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post #7 of 28 Old 04-04-2014, 09:45 AM
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yeah use the S2H tune. 5th gear lock at high RPMs
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post #8 of 28 Old 04-05-2014, 06:35 AM
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I may be wrong here....But doesn't H&S trans tuning lock the convertor from 2nd gear up on wide open throttle? I think I read that somewhere.....however don't quote me on that.
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post #9 of 28 Old 04-05-2014, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewactual View Post
in a 1/4 mile run, you're a lot better off allowing the t/c to remain unlocked in order to build those RPMs and have it translate to input shaft spin... when it does lock, later down the track, those extra RPM's will be translated to extra speed (or your perceived 'hook up') because all the initial effort to get that thing rolling has been satisfied, and inertia becomes your friend.

*- better torque converters, or ones that are designed for a specific purpose and not a wide range of function are more efficient, and can lower the flash/flare stall to almost nothing- but at the cost of generating a lot of heat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_JRuss View Post
yeah use the S2H tune. 5th gear lock at high RPMs
Following this and letting the TC lock very late will translate into a cooked trans from excessive heat, if you are doing a lot of 1/4 passes. If you want talk to any trans builder that makes tranmissions for drag racing with big HP numbers and low ET's at the track. Getting the TC locked fast to keep trans temps cool will result in a longer trans life, more consistant runs and faster times.

Robert
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post #10 of 28 Old 04-07-2014, 06:46 AM
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not trying to be contrary, but the transmission on this rig will be fine for short bursts- they are rigged with cooling features galore, which most strip cars aren't.... the concern of heat in the transmission is primarily the atf reaching 260+ at any point, or 240+ for sustained periods... for a 1/4 mile, roughly 15second shot, heat isn't so much a concern on these rigs... for a rig not equipped with such a huge cooler and such a large capacity of atf, then, heck yeah I'd be worried... but.. getting those extra tq's to the deck by allowing the engine to spool and the fluid coupling to engage as opposed to a slower spool by being directly physically connected to the input shaft ain't gonna make much difference... besides, the converter is going to lock pretty quickly anyways..



from a operational temperature of 180* (internally controlled via thermostatic valve) to 240* is possible in a short run, but unlikely... if you were to attempt the same pass while pulling or carrying a load, the trans would slip horribly and that temp (likely north of 260*) would be the least of your problems.. on a 14 second pass, he's likely going to get to 4th/locked in 5-6 seconds, and 5th locked in around 11ish.. I'd guess anyway.. I've never timed it.. so long as he allows a decent amount of time between runs (three or four minutes) the trans will reduce back to under 200* and he's fine.

just my opinion, though..
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