How do You Know When to Call it Quits? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 05-13-2013, 04:32 PM Thread Starter
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How do You Know When to Call it Quits?

I'm currently looking for some advice so I thought I'd turn to the forums. I have a 2009 F350 crew cab, short box, single rear wheel Cabela's Edition truck. It has 79,000km or just over 49,000 miles. It is paid off. I've recently been faced with some major repairs. They are all related to the front end of the truck. I've replaced the draglink, track bar, adjusters, steering gear, and steering stabilizer. Yesterday, I brought my truck in for a general service but I told them I had some front end creaking and squeaking. Well, apparently, my truck has eaten yet another track bar. This time, it was an aftermarket PMF Heavy Duty direct replacement track bar. It lasted all of about 8 months. Apparently, the track bar is hitting my front diff cover. I think there is definitely something on my truck causing this issue. The first repair was to the tune of just under $4000! Today's bill is for just under $2000.

My question is when should I call it quits? How much is too much to be putting into my truck, repairs wise? Should I trade it in? The trade in offfer is in the low $30k range. Keep in mind, a new F350 with similar options in Canada is around $70,000+/- depending on if I want a King Ranch or Platinum. A Lariat is going to cost around $70k.

09 F350 CCSB SRW Cabela's.

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post #2 of 18 Old 05-13-2013, 10:28 PM
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Damn.......Sorry to hear about your troubles.
Hope they all were warranty repairs.
Just curious to know are these problems caused under normal driving ?
I mean no off roading or hitting curbs while sleeping on the wheel.....jk.
Its kinda odd on these trucks (if its stock) to have front end problems this early.

Title on hand like always
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post #3 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 06:01 AM Thread Starter
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I have a leveling kit but the dealership assures me that isn't the problem causing my front end issues. The first time around, it was covered under warranty. This time, it won't be covered under warranty as I don't have my bumper to bumper warranty. All my driving is on paved roads. I don't offroad, drive on fire roads or logging roads, etc. I don't hop, hit, or jump curbs. Not sure why I'm going through so many front end parts. I'm told that using an OEM trackbar instead of the PMF I have that they installed but could never seem to get it right is the issue. When the dealership installed it, they talked to Trevor several times. Naturally, a dealership will blame aftermarket parts so that's what's happening. I just hope the issue will be solved. Should have my truck back today.

09 F350 CCSB SRW Cabela's.

Husky Weather Beaters
Putco Window Visors
Piaa Xtreme White 4k
Dura Flap SS Mud Flaps
Recon Smoked Mirror, Brake, Tails
Line-X
Bak Flip F1
BDS/Fox 2.0 Dual Steering Stabilizer
Fox 2.0 shocks
Good Year Duratracs
Firestone Air Bags
Air Horn
MiniMaxx/5" TBE
No Limit EGR Delete
Vision X Lights
2" Solstice Solo
8" Evo Prime
12" XMitter Low Pro Prime
4" Solstice Prime
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post #4 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 06:42 AM
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In the future, you might be better taking it to a shop that specializes in suspension and alignment work. Something doesn't sound right in this whole situation...

Shawn Carlson
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post #5 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 06:48 AM
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aside from 'hitting the dif cover', what is wrong with the trac bar? seals?

one of the most common and mind blowing mistakes folks make when installing a new trac bar is not (at least) flushing the entire system out, and replacing every drop of fluids in it.. tiny shavings get caught up in the gear box and push into the bar, and head to the seals like a floggin' moth to a flame.. and eat them right up.. if you swap out the trac and don't flush the box, and turn the box while flushing, you ain't gettin' those shavings out.. for this reason, I damn near rec a new box every time you install a new trac... expensive? helz yeah- but after swapping out two or three more bars, it pays for itself...

I hate to sound like a jaded prick, but these jobs are better done by you, and not a mechanic or dealer who won't take the time to do such a job the right way... they don't care if you're happy in six months, they only need you happy for the fifteen minutes it takes you to inspect and pay, most often..

jobs like trac bars, gears, suspension alterations, transmissions, valve lash... i'm sure the list goes on... are ALL about the quality of the INSTALL, NOT necessarily the quality of parts used..
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post #6 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewactual View Post
aside from 'hitting the dif cover', what is wrong with the trac bar? seals?

one of the most common and mind blowing mistakes folks make when installing a new trac bar is not (at least) flushing the entire system out, and replacing every drop of fluids in it.. tiny shavings get caught up in the gear box and push into the bar, and head to the seals like a floggin' moth to a flame.. and eat them right up.. if you swap out the trac and don't flush the box, and turn the box while flushing, you ain't gettin' those shavings out.. for this reason, I damn near rec a new box every time you install a new trac... expensive? helz yeah- but after swapping out two or three more bars, it pays for itself...

I hate to sound like a jaded prick, but these jobs are better done by you, and not a mechanic or dealer who won't take the time to do such a job the right way... they don't care if you're happy in six months, they only need you happy for the fifteen minutes it takes you to inspect and pay, most often..

jobs like trac bars, gears, suspension alterations, transmissions, valve lash... i'm sure the list goes on... are ALL about the quality of the INSTALL, NOT necessarily the quality of parts used..
I may be misunderstanding something but last time I checked a track bar has no fluid in it...

At least my track bar is solid along with all my other trucks. Its a solid bar with bushings on the end to help center the axle and prevent it from moving and causing death wobble.

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post #7 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 07:23 AM
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+1.....

I agree, not sure what track bar would require fluid flush? Maybe he meant a steering rack???

2010 F350 Lariat, Ready Lift 2.5" level kit, Toyo Open Country AT2-35 x 12.5 R20 on Worx Tyrant rims
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post #8 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 07:23 AM
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gawd durnettt.... I need more coffee... track bar and racks are different items...

i'll shoot myself now..
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post #9 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drewactual View Post
gawd durnettt.... I need more coffee... track bar and racks are different items...

i'll shoot myself now..
Haha I was curious what you were referring too. We all make mistakes.

As for the op, what exactly is wrong with the track bars? Bushings going bad? Breaking? Death wobble? If the bushings are the problem they make replacements that use hime joints so there is nothing to go bad.

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2003 F-250 6.0L - Lariat King Ranch
-300k+ miles and still strong
Current Mods
-6.5" Pro-Comp lift
-Edge CTS
-SCT X3 (Tuned by Vivian )
-4" Turbo Back Silverline Exhaust, 5"tip
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-Sinister Coolant Filter
-Oil Cooler
-Sinister EGR Delete
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post #10 of 18 Old 05-14-2013, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwmtnbiker View Post
Haha I was curious what you were referring too. We all make mistakes.

As for the op, what exactly is wrong with the track bars? Bushings going bad? Breaking? Death wobble? If the bushings are the problem they make replacements that use hime joints so there is nothing to go bad.

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+1. As far as i know the bar itself doesnt go bad. You can replace the bushings/joints.

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