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My 6.4 EBP sensor relocation

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111K views 54 replies 21 participants last post by  Heavy_GD  
#1 ·
A while back I had a leak in the up pipe that used to feed my EGR, back when I had an EGR. I may have broken it when I removed the EGR, but who knows. Rather than replacing the pipe, which would be impossible with the cab on, I decided to take the pipe out and relocate the EPB sensor.

I pulled off the EGR block off plate, and drilled and tapped it to 1/4" NPT. I had to cut the up pipe to get it out, which was a giant pain. I used an oscillating tool with a cutting blade on it for most of the first cut, which was above the expansion joint. The rest of that cut I finished with a small hack saw. It wasn't easy. After that cut I unbolted the pipe and dropped it down, and cut the bottom off with a Sawzall. That part was easy.

It took some doing for me to get the tapped block off plate and gasket bolted on to the new location, off of the main up pipe, but I was eventually able to get it done by myself.

I mounted the EBP sensor using a straight 1/4" NPT male to female flare fitting, then a 45 degree flare to flare elbow, just to elevate the EPB sunsor so that no moisture would collect there. I extended the sensor wires by soldering on extension, and covered them with corrugated tubing and electrical tape.

I have a couple pictures, but it's hard to get a good view back there. It's even harder to get your hands back there to work on it. In my opinion, if you have an EGR delete this is a good modification to do. It removes a useless pipe and tube that can cause problems, and puts the EBP sensor closer to the exhaust it's monitoring. I think it also minimizes the chances of the sensor getting clogged or moisture building up. I was surprised by the amount of black sooty liquid at the bottom of the EGR pipe when I removed the block off plate.

It seems that a lot of people have problems with the EGR up pipe like I did, so I thought I'd post a little bit about my experience. Hopefully it helps somebody out.
 

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#3 ·
I might look into doing this as my ebp tube freezes in cold weather since the egr delete causing the turbos to sky rocket.
 
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#4 ·
It probably freezes due to the moisture that settles at the bottom of the EGR pipe where it's capped by the block off plate. After the EGR is gone, that moisture has nowhere to go when it's under pressure but up into the EBP sensor tube. That's my best guess anyway. Periodically draining that pipe may help with the freezing issue, I don't know.

The flare fittings I used were a straight 1/4" male NPT to 5/16" female JIC flare, and a 45 degree 5/16" male JIC flare to female JIC flare. In my experience 5/16" JIC flare was a relatively uncommon size, which made these fittings a little hard to find. I bought them from Hydraulics Direct because they had the best price I could find, at the links below.

6505 JIC Steel Fittings | Parker 0106, Parker F6X, Weatherhead 9100
JIC Steel Fittings | SAE 070321, Parker V6X, Parker 3703

They're galvanized steel, and they seem to be holding up well. Stainless ones are available from other sources, but the only ones I could find were VERY expensive, at around $60-$80 each, if I remember correctly. Whatever they cost, I found them prohibitively expensive at the time, and I probably still would. The galvanized ones are reasonably priced and work well. I bought doubles of the fittings I used, just in case I ever needed another set.

It's not the easiest mod to do, although it's not real complicated, and the skills involved are probably ones you should have anyway. You need to have access to and know how to use a pipe thread tap, and know how to solder and heat shrink wires (or use crimp splices, I guess). Plus all the cutting and stuff that goes along with getting the pipe out. But I think it's a worthwhile mod to do if you're having problems with the pipe or sensor tube, and maybe even if you're not having any problems (yet).

Thanks for the feedback guys, I'm glad my little sensor relocation experiment might help people out.
 
#5 ·
I think this should be a sticky, it's a great fix. Many people post about having boost issues and ect and if they're deleted then its almost always the ebp tube! Great write up and great job man!


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#7 ·
I kind of need my truck is the only reason I ask and the dealer already order me in the new up pipes, but I don't really need them and they are going to take my cab off to do it and id rather not mess with all that if all I have to do is move a block off plate.
 
#9 ·
alright that will work... cross that idea off.
Someone should go ahead and produce the block off plates with the center out with threads to screw the sensor into like the guy above fabricated. Just for the EBP relocation.....just add it onto the step of removing the EGR
 
#27 · (Edited)
This is the outcome of reaching back to get the bolts out. I managed to get the front bolt out but the back one was stuck big. I used a 12" fine saws all blade and carefully cut between the flanges to cut the rear bolt.
 

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#14 ·
Did you pull the cab to do this. Im going to do mine in the block off plate as well, but man its tight to get in there to get those two bolts loose. Just wondering if there is a handy tool or trick im unaware of or if its just a caveman get your hands in there and feel around
 
#15 ·
I had the cab off and did it when I put my new engine in. When the cab is on I pull the coolant bottle/ battery box and fuel cooler/turbo U pipe to reach the bolts with my right hand. Pull the small pipe running towards the turbo out of the airbox lid to get your left hand back there.


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#17 ·
I did this mod a few months ago also and I also used the original tube and wiring as stated above I just had to bend it a bit. It's also a real pain in the arse to get the pipe out luckily I was able to use my sawzall to cut the pipe which took at least 4 or 5 small cuts to finally get it to fall out.
 
#19 ·
Hey fellas i've gotta replace the drivers side up pipe on our 6.4 work truck. The egr is deleted with a block off plate. My question is, will I be able to drill and tap the blockoff plate for the ebp sensor and bolt it to the drivers side uppipe or will I need a different plate? My understanding is that the drivers side up pipe can come off without pulling the trans or lifting the cab but the egr tube cant. So I was going to hack the egr pipe out, replace the drivers up pipe, and put that blocker plate where the egr pipe flanges above the turbo and bend the ebp line to fit. Will it work?
 
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#20 ·
There are many who here who have re routed the EBP line to where the the EGR pipe comes off of the up pipe, and tap the plate in a manner which you stated. But I do not know if it is possible to change the driver side up pipe without either removing the cab or dropping the trans.... You can remove in EGR pipe from the top w/o removing cab because the guys that do so, just sawzell the heck out of it and remove in pieces.
 
#21 ·
Here's a great shot of the rear of the engine. You can see both up pipes as well as the pipe that fed the lower (horizontal) EGR cooler. If you remove that pipe, then the block off plate moves up to that junction which comes off the passenger side up pipe. Which is just to the right of the yellow dot labeled #2.

 
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#22 ·
Thanks Mike. Glad the same block off plate will work for either end of the egr pipe. I do believe I saw somewhere that the drivers side up pipe can be pulled without removing the trans and the passenger cant because of the downpipe. Hopefully someone can chime in that has done it in cab before.
 
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#29 · (Edited)
You can remove the driver side pipe if you cut it apart! BUT!!! What I did was remove my inner fender well and cut the pipe right above the bellow with a Milwaukee cordless saws all (much smaller to get in there) and the top 6 inches fell out. This was all after I struggled to get the flange apart, that was a real fun job! I ended up sawing the back bolt to get her apart. THEN, I left the dummy pipe in there. It's still connected to the bracket and tight:dunno: I didn't see any reason to take it out! I was just about out of fresh type A transfusion blood up to that point:look:
So what I'm suggesting is save some time, blood, and frustration. Make 1 cut above the bellows, remove the 4 bolts holding the top section of the pipe and remove it leaving the rest of the pipe in place. Only thing left then is to relocate the sensor. You would need to purchase a seperate block off plate.
One other thing I WISH I had done was used a galvanised pipe for an extension instead of brass. Not sure the brass won't crack with vibration???
 
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#25 ·
I have an 08 6.4
I don't see that pipe yall are talking about moving the block off plate to.
egr delete
dpf delete
Spartan tuner
afe cai
aftermarket up pipes
ebp sensor eliminator (meant for 6.0 I later found out)

I get up to 58 psi when I hammer it. before I even get to 3/4 throttle the truck just stops performing and doesn't have any power.

its throwing p006b code and p2263 code

any ideas????
 
#30 ·
I think your in for a tranny drop or a cab off if your doing the passenger side. This thread is pretty much all about eliminating the driver side pipe and relocating the probe.
 
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#28 ·
I did the probe mount pretty much the same as B.Adams other than installing a longer brass fitting to the block off plate thinking it would make it easier to hook the compression fitting to the plate. I also didn't need to extend the wires due to a shorter run to fit the probe up.
 

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#31 ·
I'm wondering if anyone noticed more exhaust noise after deleting the driver side regen pipe? Don't know why it would but mine seems louder. Maybe it's just because I've been running my 5.4 Super Duty gasser and juming back into the Diesel is messing with me???
 
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