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Dfuser egr block off plate install questions...
Dfuser says you don't need gaskets to install their egr block off plates? Do they mean you re-use the stock ones? I would probably go buy new upper and lower gaskets to avoid having to re-do this project if that is the case...does anyone have the part numbers handy for the lower and upper egr cooler gaskets??
Thanks in advance guys!! Sean |
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I haven't seen a block off plate come with gaskets so im guessing uses the factory one. Let me know how the install goes. I may do just the block off plates if its easy
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I have the ptp kit in a box.. elbow and all.. for the life of me, though, I can't see why a block off and a coolant reroute won't do the same thing? What am I missing??
As far as the gaskets go, you can make some, buy some, or reuse the old ones.. they're pretty protected in that flange, and exhaust gaskets generally don't blow out unless the mating surface isn't mating very well, such as warping, cracking, unevenly synched, ect.. I've used gaskets such as the mighty remflex and blown them to bits, and on the same token I've seen metal to metal hold up on head to header unions ... It's all about the mating surface.. |
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Hmmm, unless they are 20 bucks a piece I'll just go to the dealer, I'm curious how you would make a exhaust gasket?? Do they sell the material and then just cut it out??
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We use Hi Temp red silicone for headers on 800+ HP gas engine racecars all day long and no leaks! Just let it set up a little before you bolt it together, I havent used a header gasket in years! But we also use stainless Beyea or Stiles Headers that have a thick and super true flange too, don't know if this helps, just saying
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Re: Dfuser egr block off plate install questions...
Most block plates install by just loosening the bolts and slipping them in using the stock gasket. The plates themselves have slotted holes so you can just slide them in. If you had to remove completely it would be a huge pain on the lower one.
To answer another question, yes block off plates and rerouting the coolant lines does the same thing but allows the vehicle to be returned to stock much easier/quicker then a full delete would. Sent from my LTEVO using AutoGuide app. |
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Oh alright, I guess that makes sense from the pictures that they slide in there...I just don't want to go through the trouble of doing this to find out it hisses like crazy later on...I have a feeling the lower section is going to suck getting the gap between the exhaust and the cooler to slide the plate in there...I'm guessing the gaskets just have holes and not slots. Plates should be here tomorrow but my truck is at the dealer anyway getting a stupid #1 injector replaced...
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It actually seals pretty good and no amount of hissing is present. Getting the lower plate in place is the easy part, the hard part is removing it if you need to go back to stock.
Correct, gaskets have holes to go over the bolts, the plates are slotted to go around the bolts. On the clamps, if you can, obtain a ratcheting wrench, there isn't allot of space to move the wrench so you would be turning it about 1/6 to 1/3 a turn and having to reposition the wrench for the next turn. A ratcheting wrench makes it much easier to loosen the clamps. If you remove the driver side wheel liner, you can go in from there to access everything. |
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Rudy's EGR Delete kit came with the metal gaskets so i used one on the lower flange but I removed the EGR valve and put on a FLo Pro intake elbow so I didn't need the second gasket supplied with the kit
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I wish I could do a full egr delete right now, but the dealer sucked 1300 off me today...they forgot to add in diagnostic time, was suppose to be 1100 or less....yippee! Guess block off plates with a re-route is in order...it could be worse, one injector and thermostats and a trans filter is a lot better than 10k for a new motor...I can't believe people will ignore a poorly running 6.4 to the point of no return...hopefully this is the last issue I have for a while...only had this truck for 2 months....
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