WORRIED SICK

[dnifong]

OK, i have a 2008, with 113k miles. bone stock. no real problems. BUT. you guys are scaring the hell-outa-me. All these posts of major failures

My truck truck is used about 12 to 15 times a year. Mostly to tow a 6000lb boat to the coast which is a 4 to 5 hour trip. Can not afford a break down 5 hours from home, with that much boat in tow.

All i want is a dependable, competent, economical tow machine.

Question is. what should i do to the truck to make it more dependable, and economical? Can you help me convince my wife that the money spent on something that I really dont need, is good money. Is the egr delete first, tunner, or what, is most bang for the buck, or which is first?

PS. No inspections where I live. No warranty left on the truck.

thanks for your help. I'm a retired aircraft mech, so I can wrench myself.

dale

[Term3]

Like the saying goes, "You can spend a little now or a LOT later" is pretty much spot on.


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[superduty6.4]

Check out the general modification thread at the top. It will have the info that will help you out.

[Doss]

Quick list (you can get the rest from reading other threads):

1. Tuner (needed to do anything else)
2. DPF/Cat delete
3. EGR delete
4. Coolant change plus coolant filter
5. Maintenance maintenance maintenance

The reason you hear about so many issues is because we're enthusiasts for the most part. We push the trucks pretty hard as a group. Stuff is going to break. Plus, you rarely hear people posting about their truck not breaking (since it's the norm and as expected).

Also, people with problems usually have no problem with posting to get help. Adding to the no problem side, rarely are people going to post that they drove their truck today and didn't have a problem but still need suggestions.

Don't be scared of your truck. Just maintain on schedule and it'll be fine. Don't get cheap. It's a $50,000+ truck. Skimping on filters and extending intervals may save you $100-200 over a year. Is that really worth the problems it can cause?

[drunk on diesel]

you are using the truck the right way... don't idle it excessively and you shouldn't have to do anything to it IMO

[6.0f250firstcar]

So you only drive the truck about 6,000 miles a year?


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[dnifong]

Ok, thanks for the replies. I still need to convince the SO that a tunner is needed first to start deleting stuff Will a plug or flash style tunner do the trick? That info on thier sites seemed to be unclear. What about the I phone interface units?

And yes, with this economy, we dont get to do as much as we used to. I drive 20k per year with my job, so i bought a Honda Fit for that. My testosterone levels drop each time i drive it But I save up for fishing. I wish i had a sticker that said. "I own a mans-truck" But due to our current president, I can afford to drive it.

[forddude343]

Originally Posted by dnifong

Ok, thanks for the replies. I still need to convince the SO that a tunner is needed first to start deleting stuff Will a plug or flash style tunner do the trick? That info on thier sites seemed to be unclear. What about the I phone interface units?

And yes, with this economy, we dont get to do as much as we used to. I drive 20k per year with my job, so i bought a Honda Fit for that. My testosterone levels drop each time i drive it But I save up for fishing. I wish i had a sticker that said. "I own a mans-truck" But due to our current president, I can afford to drive it.

Bro,

If the majority of miles on this truck are highway miles, and you're towing, you do not need a tune. The problems with this truck arise when people don't perform the right maintenance, or they tune them and beat the snot out of them. If you treat it right, change out the filters on time, and let the REGEN cycle complete, you're fine. For a 2008, ensure you have the TSBs complete for the radiator.

This is the best truck I've ever owned, period, and it's stock. I wouldn't trade it for anything out there, or has been for that matter.

You're good to go without purchasing a 1300 dollar tuner. If you do decide to tune, however, you will end up with a beast that is indisputably the fastest bolt on platform ever manufactured.

[RIDETHE]

The EPA crap is usually the cause of most issues. My high pressure turbo got cooked by a clogged exhaust filter and the previous owner driving like that for who knows how long. The list Doss made is pretty much spot on. A tuner will support other mods, and let you monitor your truck's vitals. I think the DPF is supposed to be changed at 100k, so you definitely want to keep an eye on exhaust backpressure. EGR delete to prevent hydrolocking. Coolant filter to save the oil cooler. Another thing to watch for is the nitrate levels of the coolant. There's a fair number of trucks (like mine) with cavitation on the front cover of the engine behind the water pump, and the cavitation occurs if you aren't testing the coolant. Can eventually dump coolant into the crankcase, so something else to watch.

PITA compared to the old million-mile diesels, but man these pull real nice

[mts678]

Originally Posted by RIDETHE

The EPA crap is usually the cause of most issues. My high pressure turbo got cooked by a clogged exhaust filter and the previous owner driving like that for who knows how long. The list Doss made is pretty much spot on. A tuner will support other mods, and let you monitor your truck's vitals. I think the DPF is supposed to be changed at 100k, so you definitely want to keep an eye on exhaust backpressure. EGR delete to prevent hydrolocking. Coolant filter to save the oil cooler. Another thing to watch for is the nitrate levels of the coolant. There's a fair number of trucks (like mine) with cavitation on the front cover of the engine behind the water pump, and the cavitation occurs if you aren't testing the coolant. Can eventually dump coolant into the crankcase, so something else to watch.

PITA compared to the old million-mile diesels, but man these pull real nice

That's right! About the coolant, another good reason to run ec-1 rated elc
Coolant


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