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  #1  
Old 12-04-2012, 06:25 PM
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Quick Lessons

Looking at an 08 F350 here - Used Ford for sale in Denton TX | 2008 Ford Crew Cab pk Diesel Pusher For Sale from I-35 RV Center in Denton Texas - I-35 RV Center

I understand 7.3s, big whoop anymore.
Getting to know 6.0s just about as good.
Not so much on 6.4s. So what all should I know?
I kinda looked for stickies, but there really weren't any.

I DO know DPF/DOC delete + tuning out the regen. Can you run stock programming with no regen only?

What about EGR block/delete? Are the coolers as prone to leaking as the 6.0 coolers?

Oil cooler; is it as prone to clogging up as the older versions?

I think I know Job 1s had radiator/hose issues. Haven't really learned past that. Updated radiators and hoses? And when does the Job1 change to Job2?

Basically, if it's bought, it will be for a roughly 9k fifth wheel at the max. Other than that, small trailers, driving around, whatever need be. What is kind of a "need to do" list?
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  #2  
Old 12-04-2012, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
I DO know DPF/DOC delete + tuning out the regen. Can you run stock programming with no regen only?

What about EGR block/delete? Are the coolers as prone to leaking as the 6.0 coolers?

Oil cooler; is it as prone to clogging up as the older versions?

I think I know Job 1s had radiator/hose issues. Haven't really learned past that. Updated radiators and hoses? And when does the Job1 change to Job2?

Basically, if it's bought, it will be for a roughly 9k fifth wheel at the max. Other than that, small trailers, driving around, whatever need be. What is kind of a "need to do" list?
If possible, delete the DPF/Cat/EGR. You can do that with a stock or "No Power" tune.

A lot of guys delete the EGR with plates/plugs and replace the elbow too. Pretty cheap to do. The EGR coolers are not as prone to leaking as the 6.0, but some do leak. The EGR elbow itself gets packed with soot. You'll want to look for pictures of that... you'll probably want a new elbow. A tuner can "delete" the EGR, but it doesn't stop the flow of coolant.

Oil cooler, also not as big an issue.

Replace Ford Gold coolant with something else and add a coolant filter.

Change oil and fuel filters often (5k and 10k respectively). Drain the water separator monthly or every 3-4 tankfuls (whichever is sooner).

Job 2's were around August or September I think. Most trucks should have the fixes in place by now. If not, get them done. The radiators are still hit or miss regardless if they've been replaced or not. Later trucks seem to have less issues though.

If you run big power tunes, you'll probably want to get headstuds done. That's a judgement call. You'll probably know how you'll treat it.

Change trans fluid regularly. The same with rear end (and front end) and transfer case (if applicable).

You may need an upgraded air filter if you run larger HP tunes.

Add a cetane booster plus something for fuel lubricity. There are many products out there that accomplish this.

Check your brake fluid and power steering fluid regularly.
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  #3  
Old 12-05-2012, 04:09 AM
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Everything Doss said is correct except job dates (job 1 01/07-06/07, job 2 07/07-12/07, job 3 01/08+).

There is lots of informed people on this forum. The best way to learn is to keep asking questions (but beware of the people who felt like they got burned, either out of bad luck or their stupidity, and think that every 6.4 is a time bomb and is the worst thing on the road).


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Old 12-05-2012, 04:38 AM
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I have met a lot of people who asked me why I bought a 6.4, since they all blow up and require the cab off for oil changes I guess...when I ask for their first hand experience I get nothing....they are maintenance heavy engines, but if you do your part your chances of problems will be greatly reduced (nothing is 100%). Don't let the myth crowd talk you out of a great truck...if your a guy who likes to stay on top of maintenance and do some mods you will be fine. I love mine, night and day from my 7.3.
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  #5  
Old 12-05-2012, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doss View Post
Job 2's were around August or September I think. Most trucks should have the fixes in place by now. If not, get them done. The radiators are still hit or miss regardless if they've been replaced or not. Later trucks seem to have less issues though.

Add a cetane booster plus something for fuel lubricity. There are many products out there that accomplish this.
It is a january 07 truck, so first one.
is there a list of tsb's to look for?

I don't add anything to the 7.3s fuel, and it was way before ulsd, so I'm not worried about a truck designed for it.
Same with all the other things, just general maintenance.

Basically, get rid of emissions, tune out regen, and all the other little common things and you're set?

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
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  #6  
Old 12-05-2012, 06:35 PM
Fueling M.A.D. Everywhere
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jesilvas View Post
It is a january 07 truck, so first one.
is there a list of tsb's to look for?

I don't add anything to the 7.3s fuel, and it was way before ulsd, so I'm not worried about a truck designed for it.
Same with all the other things, just general maintenance.

Basically, get rid of emissions, tune out regen, and all the other little common things and you're set?

I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
Just because the 6.4 was designed during mandated ulsd doesn't mean you shouldn't use additives. The Ford user manual suggests using additives! AND Ford sells fuel additives!


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  #7  
Old 12-06-2012, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by CountryAggie View Post
AND Ford sells fuel additives!

They sell batteries too haha



What about turbos and wate gates?

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I made my Samsung SGH-I997 send this.
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  #8  
Old 12-06-2012, 06:27 PM
Fueling M.A.D. Everywhere
 

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Do what you want with your engine boss. Mine runs noticeably better with additives so I'll continue running it.


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  #9  
Old 12-06-2012, 08:30 PM
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The reason to run additives is because the fuel in the US does not meet the spec Ford built the engine to. The cetane rating on most diesel is 4 or 5 points below what Ford wanted to run in the 6.4. The lubricity just isn't where it needs to be either. The 7.3 could run on anything. The 6.4 with the common rail... nope. Can't put greater than 5% biodiesel in the 6.4. You could dump vegetable oil into the 7.3. These are not the same types of engines even if they are both diesels.

Like CountryAggie, I notice an MPG gain when I run the Ford additive... not very much with DieselKleen. There are other great additives out there too. They're just not as easy to buy as the Ford stuff (over the counter) so I just keep buying the Ford stuff.

Yes, deletes, coolant change, change other fluids on schedule, use Ford oil and fuel filters (5k and 10k respectively), and you should be good to go.
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Old 12-06-2012, 10:31 PM
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The only additive I have found that made my 7.3 noticeably quieter on the highway was amsoil cetane Boost. I ran some in my last tank with my 6.4 and it Helped a little...mileage was the same (crappy, it was my last regen-ing tank) I think due to the price I'll pick up some ford cetane boost. Seems like you get more treatments for less cash with the ford additive...
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