Any suggestions for products to use or changes to make 6.4 better? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 11-13-2012, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Any suggestions for products to use or changes to make 6.4 better?

Looking for suggestions on what to do to reduce chance of problems with 6.4.

Filters, oil, add-ons, anti-freeze, 'replace before failure', additives...

Thanks for any input.
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post #2 of 6 Old 11-13-2012, 03:31 PM
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A few quick fixes:

motorcraft or racor oil filters, fuel filters.
switch to good synthetic oil.
switch to CAT EC-1 coolant.
Diesel Kleen fuel additive.
Add a pyrometer and watch EGT's

Nelson
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post #3 of 6 Old 11-14-2012, 03:30 PM
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Only Motorcraft/Racor oil (5k) and fuel filters (10k)
Run a good oil (not necessary to do synthetic) and change every 5k miles (get a Blackstone report for engine health)
Switch coolant (like CAT EC-1 (ELC))
Get a coolant filter kit
*Delete EGR system
*Delete DPF/CAT if possible
*Requires tuner
Change fluids on schedule (trans, transfer, differentials, brake)
Inspect for leaks regularly
Use a fuel additive for lubrication (I use Ford Cetane, there are other good ones)
Monitor water content in fuel often (at least once a month)
Don't hammer your truck like it's a racecar or a Baja trophy truck

The rest is just staying on top of your maintenance. If you get lazy and don't want to maintain your truck, get something else. Modern diesels are not as forgiving as those from a few years ago. This is pretty much true across brands (Ford, GM, and Dodge).


Ruiz, why add a pyrometer? The 6.4 already has one that you can monitor with a tuner.


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post #4 of 6 Old 11-14-2012, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doss View Post
Only Motorcraft/Racor oil (5k) and fuel filters (10k)
Run a good oil (not necessary to do synthetic) and change every 5k miles (get a Blackstone report for engine health)
Switch coolant (like CAT EC-1 (ELC))
Get a coolant filter kit
*Delete EGR system
*Delete DPF/CAT if possible
*Requires tuner
Change fluids on schedule (trans, transfer, differentials, brake)
Inspect for leaks regularly
Use a fuel additive for lubrication (I use Ford Cetane, there are other good ones)
Monitor water content in fuel often (at least once a month)
Don't hammer your truck like it's a racecar or a Baja trophy truck

The rest is just staying on top of your maintenance. If you get lazy and don't want to maintain your truck, get something else. Modern diesels are not as forgiving as those from a few years ago. This is pretty much true across brands (Ford, GM, and Dodge).


Ruiz, why add a pyrometer? The 6.4 already has one that you can monitor with a tuner.
I'm assuming he don't have a tuner.

Nelson
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2005 Pontiac GTO (1 of 645) (LS2 6.0L, 6 speed manual / 3.46 gear) 39k miles
2007 F-250 XLT (6.0L, 2wd, 6 speed manual / 3.73 gear) 42k miles
2008 F-450 LARIAT (6.4L, 4x4, 6 speed manual / 4.88 gear) 38k miles
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post #5 of 6 Old 11-15-2012, 07:56 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the input. I understand the comments about the filters & am assuming the final fuel filter should be a 2 micron to protect the injection system. We'll probably do the Blackstone report after a few miles on the oil change. We've been using outboard motor oil as an additional additive for better fuel lubricity (about 1 pint per 16 gallons), based on additive testing a couple of years ago. Quit using bio-diesel due to fuel degradation.

I researched the antifreeze filter add-on last night. Would the recommended one be one that had SCA's over one that didn't? Where does the 'sand' originate from?

What is the benefit of the 'delete' options? Does either void any long term warranty or is that dealer dependent?

What are your thoughts on an additional lift pump installed closer to the tank?

Is there a ranking of the causes of engine failure? Heads, fuel, other?
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post #6 of 6 Old 11-15-2012, 11:05 AM
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#1 killer, probably water in fuel
#2 EGR
#3 DPF (though it is just as bad as the EGR due to oil dilution)

I wouldn't put anything besides additives that are approved for diesel despite what that study showed. The other thing you want in the additive is a cetane booster since this engine was designed to run on diesel with a higher rating than most pumps have.

The deletes and tuner will almost definitely void your warranty except for at the most understanding dealer and there aren't many of those.

Something like an Airdog II or FASS would help, but I don't feel they're necessary on a stock truck.

The point is to use Motorcraft/Racor filters because of how they fit, not because of their marketed filtering capabilities. Most filters do not fit like the factory ones on this engine.

Just pick up a coolant filter like Sinister's or DieselSite's and you should be fine. There is junk in the engine from casting and just mineral build up and reactions.


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