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  #1  
Old 10-16-2012, 06:15 AM
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New 6.4 owner here

Last Saturday I picked up a LWB '08 XL F-250 CC 2WD with 137,000. I like the truck so far. This is my first diesel and there are a few things I have to get used to. One thing I noticed is parking. It is so long it is like trying to park a school bus.

How accurate are the displays on the dash? I drove it almost 250 miles to get it home and before I left I reset the AVG. MPG to 0. When I got home it showed my AVG was 17.9, which is better than I was expecting.

The cruise worked great on the way home, yesterday it would not work at all. After researching this site I think it is the pressure switch mounted on the master cylinder. The radio display does not work either, but once again thanks to this site I know what to do to fix that. Thanks everyone!

What can you 6.4 owners tell me about this truck? What do I need to watch out for? What is temperamental about it? What should I do/not do to keep it running great? Any and all info is greatly appreciated.

Upgrades will come in time.

This website is fantastic. I am glad I stumbled upon it.
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  #2  
Old 10-16-2012, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HM-8404 View Post
Last Saturday I picked up a LWB '08 XL F-250 CC 2WD with 137,000. I like the truck so far. This is my first diesel and there are a few things I have to get used to. One thing I noticed is parking. It is so long it is like trying to park a school bus.

How accurate are the displays on the dash? I drove it almost 250 miles to get it home and before I left I reset the AVG. MPG to 0. When I got home it showed my AVG was 17.9, which is better than I was expecting.

The cruise worked great on the way home, yesterday it would not work at all. After researching this site I think it is the pressure switch mounted on the master cylinder. The radio display does not work either, but once again thanks to this site I know what to do to fix that. Thanks everyone!

What can you 6.4 owners tell me about this truck? What do I need to watch out for? What is temperamental about it? What should I do/not do to keep it running great? Any and all info is greatly appreciated.

Upgrades will come in time.

This website is fantastic. I am glad I stumbled upon it.
Congrats on the truck and welcome!

I have a CCSB not quite he length of yours but I still park it in the middle of no where (I don't want door dings, I'd rather walk farther). But in time you will get use to the length. I went from a ECSB 2000 Tundra to this. Huge difference but now its easy.

Glad to hear you are already getting help.

As far as suggestions it's pretty unanimous, new intake (AFE or S&B), exhaust (get rid of the DPF as DoC) and put a tuner on it (either H&S or Spartan). There are lots of threads on this so utilize the search function. Also I would suggest deleting the EGR. Also searchable. Other than that regular maintenance and care and it'll run a long time.

I'm a little on the addicted side of diesels, but you can check out my build thread in my signature. It's not extreme, but it keeps building.


Sent from a phone smarter than me.
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  #3  
Old 10-16-2012, 09:48 AM
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Congrats on the PSD!!! I too have recently aquired an 08 & love the ride & power!!! The lieometer may give more of an inaccurate MPG so hand calc. is the way to go to get the truth (wish mine got anywhere near 17.9 mpg, stock & 11.5mpg)

Every I have owned during my 50+ years ran great because of regular maintenance & keeping a heads up on problems that seem insignificant!!! I have been told I am a little anal caring for my trucks but it seems to work for me.

Good luck to you. Jim Sr.
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Old 10-16-2012, 11:12 AM
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Where to start...

The in-dash MPG gauge is not very accurate. Sometimes it's close. Others it is really, really far off. I've show as much as 3.5 MPG miscalculation. It almost always is "optimistic" about the true MPG. Do hand calculations and you'll see what I (we) mean.


Things to check and do:
  1. Check the water separator flow under the cab on the fuel pump.
  2. Change your fuel filters
  3. Change your oil and oil filter
  4. Change the coolant to another type like CAT ELC (EC-1 rating)
  5. Check/change air filter (possibly switch to aFe or S&B)
  6. Change the transmission fluid (Mercon LV or SP)
  7. (4x4) Change the transfer case fluid (Motorcraft Transfer Case Fluid (XL-12)) and filter(s)
  8. Change front (4x4) and rear differential fluid
  9. (4x4)Check and lube front hubs
  10. Delete EGR system or install BPD upgraded coolers (if possible in your state)
  11. If it still has the EGR, I'd probably swap the intake too since it's most likely clogged
  12. Delete DPF (if possible in your state)
  13. Get tuner and set it for comfortable power level
  14. Remember to add cetane booster and additives for fuel lubricity


That'll probably get you started for now. Do not casually extend your maintenance schedules. This could lead to expensive hindsight.
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  #5  
Old 10-16-2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Doss View Post
Where to start...

The in-dash MPG gauge is not very accurate. Sometimes it's close. Others it is really, really far off. I've show as much as 3.5 MPG miscalculation. It almost always is "optimistic" about the true MPG. Do hand calculations and you'll see what I (we) mean.


Things to check and do:
  1. Check the water separator flow under the cab on the fuel pump.
  2. Change your fuel filters
  3. Change your oil and oil filter
  4. Change the coolant to another type like CAT ELC (EC-1 rating)
  5. Check/change air filter (possibly switch to aFe or S&B)
  6. Change the transmission fluid (Mercon LV or SP)
  7. (4x4) Change the transfer case fluid (Motorcraft Transfer Case Fluid (XL-12)) and filter(s)
  8. Change front (4x4) and rear differential fluid
  9. (4x4)Check and lube front hubs
  10. Delete EGR system or install BPD upgraded coolers (if possible in your state)
  11. If it still has the EGR, I'd probably swap the intake too since it's most likely clogged
  12. Delete DPF (if possible in your state)
  13. Get tuner and set it for comfortable power level
  14. Remember to add cetane booster and additives for fuel lubricity


That'll probably get you started for now. Do not casually extend your maintenance schedules. This could lead to expensive hindsight.
Thanks!! This is a great list. Gives me a good starting point.

Before buying this truck I researched the 6.0 and 6.4. I wonder if the Chevy and Dodge guys have to do all these upgrades and make all these changes on their diesel engines to keep them running? The EGR seems to be a weak point in both the 6.0 and the 6.4. Surely with all the engineers on staff, Ford could have solved this problem already. It's not like it's a secret after all these years. If I spent 50K on a new truck I would be very disappointed in having to start changing stuff as soon as the warranty ends just to keep it running longer than the payments last.
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2012, 12:16 PM
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Ford didn't build the 6.4. International Truck and Engine (Navistar International) built it for Ford and was trying to meet new emissions and fuel standards. Because this engine was designed to quickly fill those requirements, it had a few teething problems which mainly surround the newly added emissions systems.

Ford and Navistar had a lawsuit-fest over this going back and forth.

The result is the 6.7 Powerstroke... Ford's solution. It is a very good solution at that.

As far as Dodges and GMs having these problems, they suffer just the same on their emission's side. The heightened emissions and fuel requirements were an issue for everyone. We're still battling through the low lubricity of the fuels and various issues involving emissions.

Remember, these suggestions are for peace of mind, these trucks can and will run forever if maintained properly. It's just a crapshoot due to the emissions equipment and the damage they do.
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doss View Post
Ford didn't build the 6.4. International Truck and Engine (Navistar International) built it for Ford and was trying to meet new emissions and fuel standards. Because this engine was designed to quickly fill those requirements, it had a few teething problems which mainly surround the newly added emissions systems.

Ford and Navistar had a lawsuit-fest over this going back and forth.

The result is the 6.7 Powerstroke... Ford's solution. It is a very good solution at that.

As far as Dodges and GMs having these problems, they suffer just the same on their emission's side. The heightened emissions and fuel requirements were an issue for everyone. We're still battling through the low lubricity of the fuels and various issues involving emissions.


Remember, these suggestions are for peace of mind, these trucks can and will run forever if maintained properly. It's just a crapshoot due to the emissions equipment and the damage they do.
I understand that Ford didn't build the engines. I traded in a 2006 Convertible Mustang on this truck. In 2011 the back window started separating from the top. allowing water to come in every time it rained. After doing some research on forums such as this one I discovered that is a very common occurrence for the 05-07 Mustangs. It happens in almost 80% of them in the 5-6 year timeframe. Ford is well aware of the faulty design but instead of recalling the cars they chose to pass the expense on to the customer. I doubt Ford made the tops for these cars, but I see it as a Ford issue. That was my first and last Ford car. I have always had excellent service out of Ford trucks over the years. That is why I didn't mind purchasing another.

From the list you provided me could you tell me which numbers are good to do and which are must do? I want to make sure I take care of the must do's first. The fluid and filter changes will all be done this weekend. I am also looking at ordering a monitor, any suggestions?

Last edited by HM-8404; 10-16-2012 at 12:42 PM. Reason: clarification
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Old 10-16-2012, 12:59 PM
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Convertibles leak. There is no way around it. LOL I feel your pain. I have a '95 Cobra hardtop convertible. It leaked around the A-pillar roof joint seal. Common issue. Then again, I have never seen a convertible that did not leak from BMW to Chevy. I have worked on cars and trucks for about 20 years now.

A monitor? Like gauges and sensor output? A Mini-Maxx or Spartan Phalanx or a few others can accomplish that plus give you the ability to tune and delete the truck.

I'd say 1-9 are must-dos if you don't know the service history on the truck.

#14 is preventative. You cold also do a coolant, oil, and transmission fluid filter as well. An AirDog or FASS for removal of air from your fuel would be great as well. This is all peace of mind stuff.

If you plan on owning this thing for a while, I'd go ahead and delete the EGR and DPF ASAP. You'll need a tuner to remove the codes. I'd say these two are the ones most likely to bring your motor to its knees.

Anything beyond this is just for fun or because you want to play. If you run big boost and push for 600+ HP and 1100+ lb-ft, get ready for headstuds and transmission work. You're not going to find another truck that responds like these things to simple mods. That is also a problem because you can inexpensively step into a very expensive situation.
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Old 10-17-2012, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doss View Post
Convertibles leak. There is no way around it. LOL I feel your pain. I have a '95 Cobra hardtop convertible. It leaked around the A-pillar roof joint seal. Common issue. Then again, I have never seen a convertible that did not leak from BMW to Chevy. I have worked on cars and trucks for about 20 years now.

A monitor? Like gauges and sensor output? A Mini-Maxx or Spartan Phalanx or a few others can accomplish that plus give you the ability to tune and delete the truck.

I'd say 1-9 are must-dos if you don't know the service history on the truck.

#14 is preventative. You cold also do a coolant, oil, and transmission fluid filter as well. An AirDog or FASS for removal of air from your fuel would be great as well. This is all peace of mind stuff.

If you plan on owning this thing for a while, I'd go ahead and delete the EGR and DPF ASAP. You'll need a tuner to remove the codes. I'd say these two are the ones most likely to bring your motor to its knees.

Anything beyond this is just for fun or because you want to play. If you run big boost and push for 600+ HP and 1100+ lb-ft, get ready for headstuds and transmission work. You're not going to find another truck that responds like these things to simple mods. That is also a problem because you can inexpensively step into a very expensive situation.
Thanks for all of the great info.

This truck will basically be just a grocery getter for the next year. Don't have a need for 600hp. lol

It was suggested I get a monitor such as Dashboss to monitor temps and such until I start deleting EGR and such.

When you say replace the intake also do you mean replace intake manifold? Diesel engines are pretty foreign to me. Not much I can't do to a 302 or 327.
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  #10  
Old 10-18-2012, 08:29 AM
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Yes, if you have the extra money and time, replace the intake manifold if it's had the EGR on it this whole time. It's not that expensive but the process for replacing it takes some time (you have to pull the turbos).

I know it's kind of confusing because people on here use the same terminology that import car guys use (intake = air filter and piping). When I say intake, I mean manifold (except when I'm on here... when in Rome... ).

I recommended the Spartan or Mini Maxx because if you ever plan on tuning, these are the best out there (my opinion based on other users' opinions) and offer you the ability to monitor sensors.

Avoid really short trips that don't build up any heat or ones that constantly heat cycle the drivetrain. Both of those can are pretty heavy wear.
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