7.3 to a 6.0 or 6.4? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 06-13-2012, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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7.3 to a 6.0 or 6.4?

Hey guys... currently a happy 7.3 owner, but looking to get into a newer truck possibly.

I have driven both 6.0s and 6.4s, and I am fully aware of the 6.0 issues and the money it takes to "bulletproof" those motors... But I am also aware that the 6.4 is not without issues as well.

What does it take to make a 6.4 a strong performer in both power and mileage. Is it true that a simple EGR delete and tuning will net you 20+ MPG??

Can you get away with no studs on these trucks?....

Any insight would be greatly appreciate. I dont want to leave a perfect running truck and hop in the drivers seat of tons of problems... I am thinking my best bet it to jump right past the 6.0s and go for a 6.4?....

Thanks for any input

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post #2 of 11 Old 06-13-2012, 11:21 AM
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Depends on what you are expecting out of the 6.4L, if you are in an area where you are comfortable deleting the EGR and DPF systems, the 6.4L has been a strong performer. I don't have mileage numbers for these trucks.

If you intend to retain emission control equipment, or you are a guy who prefers to work on your truck yourself, the 6.0L is the better option. Just know what you are getting yourself into, the aftermarket has answered every shortfall of the 6.0L.

As for your 7.3L, there will never be a truck more reliable, and owner/mechanic friendly than that motor in a Ford.

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post #3 of 11 Old 06-13-2012, 11:25 AM
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Oh here we go again........ IHMO a tuned deleted 6.4 wont get 20+, some may but it really depends on how you drive, I seem to get about 18 on the interstate. (see my sig for details) I hear if you don't go over the 250 tunes you shouldn't need headstuds, not to say it wouldn't be a good idea. Avoid job 1's, egr and dpf delete, tune it and you should have a solid truck. Any truck/ engine can have problems, but I'm a fan of the 6.4

2008 (Job 1) F250 King ranch 4x4, snow plow prep package with 2.5 level. Black Maxx, B&W Diehard platinums. Dieselsite coolant and transmission filters, NCU Motorsports/amsoil oil bypass kit. Turbo blankets, 5.5 PMF traction
Please collect and message me Shell, Rotella oil cap codes aka "my miles matter" I'm trying to save up for a hat or something.

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post #4 of 11 Old 06-13-2012, 01:45 PM
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Either truck is good just drive the crap out of them and pick witch one you like.


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post #5 of 11 Old 06-13-2012, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 44magnum View Post
I hear if you don't go over the 250 tunes you shouldn't need headstuds,
LOL.... man so thats how the other half lives huh? Damn 250 tunes?

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post #6 of 11 Old 06-13-2012, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 44magnum View Post
Oh here we go again........ IHMO a tuned deleted 6.4 wont get 20+, some may but it really depends on how you drive, I seem to get about 18 on the interstate. (see my sig for details) I hear if you don't go over the 250 tunes you shouldn't need headstuds, not to say it wouldn't be a good idea. Avoid job 1's, egr and dpf delete, tune it and you should have a solid truck. Any truck/ engine can have problems, but I'm a fan of the 6.4
I have to ask why you say avoid the Job 1's? I know everybody seems scared of them, but I have not actually seen any more job 1 people with problems then anyone else. I've been looking at a job 1.

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post #7 of 11 Old 06-14-2012, 01:04 AM
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Well I have a job 1 and I had to replace the radiator, from what I understand its most common with the job 1's. They are said to have a few other small issues, I figure for the slight price difference its best to just go with the later jobs, easy enough solution to possibly prevent a few problems.

2008 (Job 1) F250 King ranch 4x4, snow plow prep package with 2.5 level. Black Maxx, B&W Diehard platinums. Dieselsite coolant and transmission filters, NCU Motorsports/amsoil oil bypass kit. Turbo blankets, 5.5 PMF traction
Please collect and message me Shell, Rotella oil cap codes aka "my miles matter" I'm trying to save up for a hat or something.

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post #8 of 11 Old 06-14-2012, 04:47 AM Thread Starter
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How do you identify a Job 1??

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post #9 of 11 Old 06-14-2012, 01:47 PM
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I do not see that kind of mileage with my tuned 6.4, i get about 16 highway babying it, and 13 to 14 city, I drive hard. I run the 300 tune from H&S all the time and i have no need for studs. I also have a JOB 3 and I have replaced my radiator as well. there is not that much to worry about a Job 1 IMHO.


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post #10 of 11 Old 06-14-2012, 04:19 PM
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I would say the "Job 1 scare" should be over by now. The job 1 trucks have been out 5 years now. My 08 F250 is a job 1 truck and has been great as long as I have owned it and its warranty history was very clean. I have seen high teens for highway mileage on my truck but not 20+ and my emissions equipment has been deleted. I also don't have aftermarket headbolts, my truck isn't run hot or hard either though. The power difference from a 7.3 to a 6.4 is awesome.

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