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post #1 of 11 Old 05-22-2012, 08:37 PM Thread Starter
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Homeslice homebrew egr block.

Well tonight I decided to initiate plan x and make my own egr block off plates. Took about 2 hours start to finish (including plate fabrication).
Ill try to give details soon but I've had too many celebratory beers to accurately thumb type.
Things of note:
Don't ever ever ever take the bolts out of the lower egr cooler where it connects to the exhaust because they are a ***** to get back in.
Fire alarm boxes are very heat resistant and make good metal stock
Employees suck because they use your tools and don't put them back

Thats all for now

Burp...


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post #2 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 12:06 PM Thread Starter
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Ok... So last night I decided to pull the pin on my homemade egr block plates. Only took one pic. Here it is.Homeslice homebrew egr block.-imageuploadedbyautoguide1337795372.124210.jpg

I made them from a leftover fire alarm box because it's designed to withstand heat. Just to be sure I heated the metal with my propane torch [3000 degrees) and compared it to a stainless muffler I had lying around. The metals heated about the same and both maintained their integrity. I had purchased a lower egr cooler gasket earlier to use as a template. After tracing out my form I used shears to roughly cut out the shape I needed, then a bench grinder to fine shape the metal. Holes were drilled and slots were cut so that the plates would slide in without completely removing the bolts. I used a polishing wheel to take the rough edges off of the plates then a bench vise and two 1" steel plates to make sure that the block offs were perfectly flat. I tested one plate by clamping it in front of my 1050 degree heat gun for about 10 minutes and there was no glowing or melting or deformation so on we go. I heated the plates to red hot with the torch and dropped them in water to add some hardness, and clamped them in the vice one more time just to ensure flatness.

Tip #1. Remove the drivers side wheel if you can. I could have but didn't and it made the work very tight.
Tip # 2. Don't remove the bolts that hold the cooler to the exhaust pipe! That's why you slotted the bolt holes you idiot! Trying to get everything to line back up after I removed them added about an hour and caused me to lose lots of credit in the afterlife.
Tip #3 have a good source of light. I didn't discover till it was too late that one of my employees had apparently driven over my shop light, forcing me to use a stage light, which is very hot, very bright, and very annoying.

I ended up only blocking the exhaust side of the cooler since the erg valve itself closes off the intake side.

I used my BFS to pry the junctions apart enough to reach the gasket with a pick and ensure that it was on the exhaust side of the junction. I had apparently done an ok job of making the plate because it slid in pretty easily (with some light taps from a rubber mallet). Got everything buttoned up and it all seems to be fine. No leaks and ect seems a couple of degrees cooler.



Typed with my thumbs from my Autoguide app.
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post #3 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 12:35 PM
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Congrats on the install! I LOVE your first post about how you had too many celebratory beers last night.

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2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
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Engine Mods:
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CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
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SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

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BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsabine2003 View Post
Ok... So last night I decided to pull the pin on my homemade egr block plates. Only took one pic. Here it is.Attachment 38322

I made them from a leftover fire alarm box because it's designed to withstand heat. Just to be sure I heated the metal with my propane torch [3000 degrees) and compared it to a stainless muffler I had lying around. The metals heated about the same and both maintained their integrity. I had purchased a lower egr cooler gasket earlier to use as a template. After tracing out my form I used shears to roughly cut out the shape I needed, then a bench grinder to fine shape the metal. Holes were drilled and slots were cut so that the plates would slide in without completely removing the bolts. I used a polishing wheel to take the rough edges off of the plates then a bench vise and two 1" steel plates to make sure that the block offs were perfectly flat. I tested one plate by clamping it in front of my 1050 degree heat gun for about 10 minutes and there was no glowing or melting or deformation so on we go. I heated the plates to red hot with the torch and dropped them in water to add some hardness, and clamped them in the vice one more time just to ensure flatness.

Tip #1. Remove the drivers side wheel if you can. I could have but didn't and it made the work very tight.
Tip # 2. Don't remove the bolts that hold the cooler to the exhaust pipe! That's why you slotted the bolt holes you idiot! Trying to get everything to line back up after I removed them added about an hour and caused me to lose lots of credit in the afterlife.
Tip #3 have a good source of light. I didn't discover till it was too late that one of my employees had apparently driven over my shop light, forcing me to use a stage light, which is very hot, very bright, and very annoying.

I ended up only blocking the exhaust side of the cooler since the erg valve itself closes off the intake side.

I used my BFS to pry the junctions apart enough to reach the gasket with a pick and ensure that it was on the exhaust side of the junction. I had apparently done an ok job of making the plate because it slid in pretty easily (with some light taps from a rubber mallet). Got everything buttoned up and it all seems to be fine. No leaks and ect seems a couple of degrees cooler.



Typed with my thumbs from my Autoguide app.
Nice job! Better watch or or you might get some orders to make some more!

08 F350 JOB 1
H&S MINI MAXX HD300 W/S1M
SINISTER EGR/COOLER DELETE
6000K BEAMERS HID HEAD & FOGLIGHTS
KMC XD WHEELS W/NITTO TRAIL GRAPPLERS
2.5" LEVELING KIT
DIESELSITE COOLANT FILTER
ROTELLA EC-1 RATED COOLANT
5" DP BACK FLO-PRO EXHAUST
FLO-PRO CAC PIPE & INTAKE ELBOW
CCV MOD
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post #5 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 02:54 PM
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Nice! I still have my egr delete kit (Still in the box) from rudys performance for sale! lol

Mini/DPF/DOC/S&B/37" Open Country's/6" Lift



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post #6 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 04:39 PM
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I just did the plates too although I bought them for $30. I agree those bolts are a mofo to get back in. I had to do some prying and fanagling but finally got em back in. Just sold my Sinister egr delete kit on ebay that had been sitting around for months.
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post #7 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 05:03 PM
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I am going to be tackling this before long.

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2008 Ford F-450, TumbleWeed Headache Rack, B&W Gooseneck, 15% tinted windows, 120 Gal Transfer tank, Cobra 29 LX CB, 1200 watt converter, PIAA lights, Sinister goodies, S&B Intake and lots of running lights.

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post #8 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 05:24 PM
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I would suggest adding the top plate sooner rather than later because that plate keep coolant out of the intake in the instance of a coolant failure. Just my thoughts. Nice job though. Anytime you can do something yourself and the only cost is time, it is well worth it.




2008 F-250 XLT CC 6.4L 2WD
H&S XRT Pro, Flo Pro DPF/DOC Delete,
EGR Block-Off Plates,
aFe OE PDS Filter (in a modified airbox)

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post #9 of 11 Old 05-23-2012, 06:05 PM
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I'm wanting to do a little custom egr myself. I want to have slotted plate for the bottom and solid for the top, remove the whole valve assembly and install flopro's elbow and block off anything remaining. Purpose is for warranty, should be easy to turn back to stock incase something bad happens, me and my buddy have the flopro's downpipe back exhaust and stock back on in 45 min. Down to a science! Possible?

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post #10 of 11 Old 05-24-2012, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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I've got the top plate made but I was at the point where I was going to start breaking stuff so I just quit while I was ahead. I'm actually considering skipping the top plate but re routing the egr coolant circuit through a coolant filter, bypassing the egr cooler altogether. Some people say that not blocking the top can cause soot to enter the intake through the egr valve at high boost levels but I got to play with an egr valve at the local dealership the other day and I really don't see how. It's servo operated and once it's closed it's pretty well closed.


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