Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Sep 2006
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You answered what would be my first question and stated you have a weight distributing hitch (which I also use with my enclosed car carrier that's about 8K pounds loaded). My truck rides DEAD level, with less than a 1/2 inch difference between the front and rear of the trailer, with the truck planed out PERFECT.
Most people would agree that ideal tongue weight is 10% (up to 15% max) of the trailer's total weight, higher or lower than that can cause a variety of issues. I had to experiment quite a bit to get it to ride the way it does now, including the height of the hitch (got an adjustable one) and it's angle (likewise adjustable with washers and set pin), the number of links on the weight distribution bar chain and the location of where the chains hook up and their angle...
WHEW! Of course adjusting one thing affected one or more other measurements and at times it downright maddening, but the end result is worth it. Now that I'm in the process of changing my suspension I'm going have to do it all over again, but rolling down the road with that piece of mind is priceless.
I'd say that a set of air-bags (like FireStone, etc.) would help, but you're barely at 1/2 your max towing capacity (tongue weight not withstanding) so I would think with some tinkering with what you have you'd be good to go...
There are some excellent towing (sub) forums out there with an invaluable amount of information that should definitely be able to help too...
'10 F250 CC/SB FX4 530 HP/1047 Torque (Gearhead Street Tune), lowered/LEVELED, aFe Stage II Si intake, Spartan CAC pipe, powerstroker67 DPF-delete & ceramic coated downpipe, MBRP Cool Duals, AMSOIL oil bypass, DieselSite coolant bypass, PowerStroke Connection CCV kit, Fumoto oil drain valve, PAC Navigation Unlock Interface, Edge CTS, Boston Acoustic SE85s (front & rear), Kicker Solo-Baric L5 12-inch sub with Kenwood KAC-9105C amp, Retro-Solutions 55W Digital 6K HID Headlights & 3K Fog Lights