Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Installing the coolant filter before the flush would be helpful, just expect to change in a new filter after the flush so order an extra.
With a proper flush you can switch to elc, just be sure to flush the system properly with restore/restore+. From another thread:
"The restore is to remove the coating that the stock coolant deposits onthe walls of the cooling system to help stop cavitation issues.
The restore+ is to remove rust scale build up in the system. You can use Ford VC-9 in place of the restore+ (you will need 2 quarts), there is no substitute that I know of for the restore product.
If you were to skip the restore, the elc style coolant could react chemically with the coating from the existing coolant, since it is a very different type and style.
If you were to skip the restore+, you would be leaving the rust scale in the cooling system. "
To do a proper flush takes takes a long long time, with several flush, run for an hour, flush, run for an hour, flush, run for an hour, flush etc. so put aside a full day and buy a ton of distilled water. You'll also need to catch the initial coolant + other chemicals so you'll need a large container (drum) to properly dispose of the fluids. There are several write-ups on doing proper coolant flushes.
Black 2008 F250 Lariat 4x4 6.4L CC Job3, DPF/DOC Delete, H&S mini maxx, S&B Intake, vista-pro radiator
Black 2010 Mitsubishi Evolution, UR, AMS