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post #1 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 06:57 PM Thread Starter
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coolant flush and coolant

I am getting ready to do a coolant flush in the next little while and I will probably be taking it to Ford even though I heard that they dont always do the best job. My question is should I flush it with VC9 or is a regular flush good enough? Also ive heard mixed reviews on coolant and I know the ford Gold was a problem with the 6.0....should I keep the Ford Gold in my 6.4 or should i switch to something else? And about the coolant filter how big of a deal is it do add that to my truck? is it worth it?

01/07 Job 1 F350 H&S Tuned. ARP Studs, AFE 4'' straight pipe, EGR delete with elbow, AFE stage 2 CAI, 6'' lift on 37s, 20x12 Fuel Nuts two piece, Sinister coolant filter, CCV Mod, Projector headlights HID kit
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post #2 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 06:58 PM
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post #3 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 07:57 PM
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If you are going to do a flush use restore and restore +. You can also do back flush also which helps to get extra sludge out of the coolant system. If you do a flush you run the risk of clogging up your oil cooler from the flush so a lot of people put a new oil cooler on AFTER the flush. If you put a oil cooler on BEFORE the flush you run the risk of CLOGGING YOUR NEW OIL COOLER. I would also throw the ford gold coolant out the window. The ford gold coolant has chemicals in it that sludge up form high which is the reason why you are doing a flush and the reason why the oil coolers clog up. The coolant that you need is ec-1 type coolant. You could also put a coolant filter on which will help. But if you do a good enough coolant flush and keep up on it you shouldn't to use a filter. But it is better to be safe then sorry.

If you use ford gold coolant you will never fix the problem of a clogged oil cooler. It will only be a matter of time until the oil cooler gets clogged again.

Last edited by ljhopp; 11-27-2011 at 08:03 PM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 08:03 PM Thread Starter
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Would it be stupid to skip the flush and just change the coolant or does it not work like that....I think either way ill do the flush I like to keep up on my maintenance. Also whats a ballpark cost on a new oil cooler and install from a dealership....I guess if im going to do it may as well do it right

Is it a bad idea to do a flush and then not change the oil cooler? if my oil cooler starts to go is it pretty obvious...im always keeping an eye on my temps and my oil is always about 4 degrees hotter then coolant. sorry for all the questions like I said I just want to do it right
thanks in advance

01/07 Job 1 F350 H&S Tuned. ARP Studs, AFE 4'' straight pipe, EGR delete with elbow, AFE stage 2 CAI, 6'' lift on 37s, 20x12 Fuel Nuts two piece, Sinister coolant filter, CCV Mod, Projector headlights HID kit

Last edited by srjd; 11-27-2011 at 08:08 PM.
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post #5 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by srjd View Post
Would it be stupid to skip the flush and just change the coolant or does it not work like that....I think either way ill do the flush I like to keep up on my maintenance. Also whats a ballpark cost on a new oil cooler and install from a dealership....I guess if im going to do it may as well do it right
But why do you want to do a flush is their a reason or do you just want to do one?

Also it is very wise decision to get some gauges to watch your EOT (engine oil temp) and your ECT (engine coolant temps) temps. The reason why you want to get gauges is you want to watch the two temps and if they start to get a 15 degree difference between the two that means your oil cooler is starting to clog and needs to fixed. If you do not fix the oil cooler right way you run the risk of a blown head gasket and possibly other problems. If your oil cooler is bad it is good chance that the egr cooler is bad also and needs to be fixed.

You can skip the flush but that doesn't get rid of the all the build up from the ford gold coolant. If you skip the flush I would install a filter and hope the filter catches the particles that is not suppsoe to be their.

What I would do is do a flush myself and watch a bunch of youtube vidoes on how to do the flush. Doing a flush yourself will save you money and will also make sure the flush is done right. Their is a proper way to do a flush that will get the majority of the build up out of the coolant system. Once you do the flush replace the coolant with EC-1 coolant. Then get the oil cooler installed.

I would also call around to several different shops to get prices on the oil cooler replacement job. A dealer is usually going to have the highest price on a oil cooler replacement job.

Last edited by ljhopp; 11-27-2011 at 08:30 PM.
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post #6 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 08:34 PM Thread Starter
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I use my edge for my gauges and once everything is warmed up my coolant is usually 194 and oil is 198...I guess I dont have a reason to do the flush my coolant looks really clean atleast in the degas bottle but Ive always been agressive with maintenance and fluid changes which is a big reason why my 08 job 1 biggest problem was a sticky egr valve with 140k on it...I think I will play it on the safe side just do the flush and where can I get this coolant that your talking about. Thanks again for your help

01/07 Job 1 F350 H&S Tuned. ARP Studs, AFE 4'' straight pipe, EGR delete with elbow, AFE stage 2 CAI, 6'' lift on 37s, 20x12 Fuel Nuts two piece, Sinister coolant filter, CCV Mod, Projector headlights HID kit
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post #7 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srjd View Post
I use my edge for my gauges and once everything is warmed up my coolant is usually 194 and oil is 198...I guess I dont have a reason to do the flush my coolant looks really clean atleast in the degas bottle but Ive always been agressive with maintenance and fluid changes which is a big reason why my 08 job 1 biggest problem was a sticky egr valve with 140k on it...I think I will play it on the safe side just do the flush and where can I get this coolant that your talking about. Thanks again for your help
Those are very good temps. Since you have good temps right now I wouldn't do a flush and just change the fluid and put a coolant filter on.

The resson why I would not do a flush is right now your oil cooler is good and if you do a flush it is good chance your oil cooler will become clogged. If you can't do the work yourself you are going to have to pay someone around $2600 to do one.
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post #8 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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I dont feel like forking over that kind of cash right now so maybe I will just go ahead and change the coolant. Like you said Ill just keep an eye on my temps. So you say once you get to a 15 degree difference thats cause for concern...the most I have seen is maybe a 7 degree difference but on average its 4-5 at most. Thanks again appreciate all the help

01/07 Job 1 F350 H&S Tuned. ARP Studs, AFE 4'' straight pipe, EGR delete with elbow, AFE stage 2 CAI, 6'' lift on 37s, 20x12 Fuel Nuts two piece, Sinister coolant filter, CCV Mod, Projector headlights HID kit
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post #9 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by srjd View Post
I use my edge for my gauges and once everything is warmed up my coolant is usually 194 and oil is 198...I guess I dont have a reason to do the flush my coolant looks really clean atleast in the degas bottle but Ive always been agressive with maintenance and fluid changes which is a big reason why my 08 job 1 biggest problem was a sticky egr valve with 140k on it...I think I will play it on the safe side just do the flush and where can I get this coolant that your talking about. Thanks again for your help
You get the EC-1 coolant from cat diesel dealer. I would change your coolant to make forsure you don't have any ford gold coolant in you system. Right now I would not do the flush because your oil cooler is in good shape. Look into getting a coolant filteration system.

Another thing I would do is a dpf delete and make forsure your regen process no longer occurs. The regen process can cause all sorts of bad problems like burnt pistons to turbo charger failures. The reson why is duirng the regen process the number 7 and 8 cyclinders will poor raw fuel during the exhaust stroke. This heats up the exhaust to really high temps to burn the excess sort out of the dpf filter. If the piston doesn't burn all the diesel or leaks fuel the fuel can go into the crank case and cause other problems. Which is why you should make forsure you keep up on the oil changes.

Last edited by ljhopp; 11-27-2011 at 09:05 PM.
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post #10 of 19 Old 11-27-2011, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
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I dont feel like forking over that kind of cash right now so maybe I will just go ahead and change the coolant. Like you said Ill just keep an eye on my temps. So you say once you get to a 15 degree difference thats cause for concern...the most I have seen is maybe a 7 degree difference but on average its 4-5 at most. Thanks again appreciate all the help
They say 15 degree difference is a point to start to pay attention to the EOT temps because that is when your oil cooler is howing signs of starting to get clogged. You should be fine at 15 degrees as long as it doesn't get any worse then 15 degrees. But pay close attention to the eot temps if it's around 15 degrees. Also pay attention to the coolant and if it starts to puke out of the degas bottle cap that means the oil cooler and the egr cooler are probably in need of being fixed.
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