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post #1 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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synthetic oil question

I am using the rotella t6 oil for the first time and was wondering what the recommended change intervals were because I have usually been changing my oil about every 5K to be safe but i hear its better to change every 10k with the synthetic.

Another concern is since I just started using synthetic should I keep using it from now on? or does it matter if i switch back?

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post #2 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 02:07 PM
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Try the search feature it works wonders. There are plenty of threads on this already

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 03:48 PM
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Like eric says, there are plenty of threads on this subject with allot of theories. The dealers typically recommend about 5k between changes for normal oil and I've had 3 of my local dealers recommend 7.5k for synthetic.

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post #4 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RachHandinit View Post
I am using the rotella t6 oil for the first time and was wondering what the recommended change intervals were because I have usually been changing my oil about every 5K to be safe but i hear its better to change every 10k with the synthetic.

Another concern is since I just started using synthetic should I keep using it from now on? or does it matter if i switch back?
I have heard around 7k but i do not recommend ever goin back to conventional oil once you switch to synthetic. My 7.3 has had synthetic all its life went to get the oil change and the business put the wrong oil in they put a conventional and it messed up my turbo almost instantly when it got changed back my turbo started workin right again. But was still damaged now im trying to get them to pay for the turbo but prolly wont ever happen. May cost me more tryin to make them then me just goin and buying another turbo. Others may say you can switch back and forth but there is no way in hell i would ever!!!

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post #5 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 04:52 PM
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I'm running T-6 in my 2010 as well. I'm still doing 5k changes because of the fuel dilution issue from the dpf. Once the truck gets deleted, I will let it go a little bit longer. I tried 6500 miles at first but didn't like what my oil analysis was telling me so I shortened the interval a little bit..

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post #6 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 05:03 PM
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synthetic oil i think is a good idea in a powerstroke, i just got my 6.0 woth 40477 on the clock and put amsoil in everything you can think of in the truck, Axles, Engine, Brakes Etc etc and i added a bypass kit as well. Synthetic oil w/o a bypass system is good for 7,500 It looks as if you have a 6.4, those engines with the massive egr coolers and emission run hot, so a syth oil would benefit you in terms of the oil holding up in terms of shearing. I would go with 6-7.5K on a synth. any further look into a bypass kit and oil analysis
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 06:24 PM
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Well I'm running t6 and k&n filter with 5k changes. Once it gets the dpf deleted I will run higher with analysis. I am seriously thinking about a centrifuge from dieselcraft. I have never heard anything bad about going between conventional and synthetic and back again. Although I dont know why you would want to.

2008 (Job 1) F250 King ranch 4x4, snow plow prep package with 2.5 level. Black Maxx, B&W Diehard platinums. Dieselsite coolant and transmission filters, NCU Motorsports/amsoil oil bypass kit. Turbo blankets, 5.5 PMF traction
Please collect and message me Shell, Rotella oil cap codes aka "my miles matter" I'm trying to save up for a hat or something.
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 06:44 PM
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44magnum, u run a K&N Filter? have u had any problems with it? im gunna stick to the racor/motorcraft filters but curious why you choose K&N? The Centrifuge looks real nice but i would never buy it as of now im happy with my setup
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 07:00 PM
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Yup I run K&N oil filter, no problems. Only had the truck for about 12k but so far so good. Supposedly it filters better, who knows if thats true. But I figure if there is a chance it does then its worth it. What bypass kit do you have and how do you like it? I like the centrifuge because it should filter down to 1/10th micron and I don't have another filter to replace. But I'm not big of the idea of the small air compressor to run it, just another thing to wear out and break. I guess I'm still torn between the two.

2008 (Job 1) F250 King ranch 4x4, snow plow prep package with 2.5 level. Black Maxx, B&W Diehard platinums. Dieselsite coolant and transmission filters, NCU Motorsports/amsoil oil bypass kit. Turbo blankets, 5.5 PMF traction
Please collect and message me Shell, Rotella oil cap codes aka "my miles matter" I'm trying to save up for a hat or something.
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-04-2011, 07:12 PM
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I have a NUC motorsport bypass kit, im gunna put pics up in my photo album but lost my camera wire lolol currently trying to find that, but about it i love it, i got the deluxe one and it uses amsoil bypass filters. it came with a billet oil filter cap, Oil fill Cap, Billet fuel filter cap, stainless braided lines, mechanical oil pressure gauge, racor oil filter. its a real nice kit, and the billet fuel cap has a 1/8npt port for a mechanical fuel pressure gauge which i bought one online and installed it, so now i can see my oil and fuel pressures from under the hood. It came with a billet aluminum base and bracket that attaches to the alternators two top bolts, and i also drilled the bracket and put my dieselsite coolant filter right next to it, so now i have my bypass and coolant filter in the same spot on one bracket. its a nice kit and comes with everything youll need, the only thing i did was bought an aermotive fuel pressure gauge, 30.00 and drilled the bracket for the coolant filter. On the K&N, i wouldnt use them, the motorcraft racor filter is patented and its the only proper filter for the powerstroke. Look up aftermarket oil/fuel filters on 6.0/6.4 PSDs. alot of people run into serious problems. the Bypass kit should work on the 6.4 as well i think.
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