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post #1 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
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Tools for brake pad change?

Hey guys I'm looking to change my pads today on my 2008 F250 SD diesel and I would rather have everything I need before I start. So what all is needed for the pad change? For example does the caliper need allen wrench, torx bits, or tools to screw the pistons back into the caliper. If so what size, etc? I just don't want to take the wheels off then have to put everything back on just to make another trip to the store. Thanks.
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post #2 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 05:59 AM
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I am not sure if they changed anything from the earlier years, but on all the ones i have done which are from 99 to 04 you don't need any special tools. I just use the vice grip type c-clamps to push the pistons back into the calipers. Just get a good set of impact sockets for the caliper mounting bracket bolts. Also remember to put on a little thread locker on the bolts to keep them from rattling out later on.

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post #3 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:03 AM
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Recently did the brakes on my 06, and assume the 08 would be very similar, if not the same.

No special tools are required. Here's what you will need:

Torque wrench capable of at least 150 FT/LBS
Misc sockets for caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts
A "C" clamp to compress the caliper before removing
Brake parts cleaner to clean the rotor, caliper, and caliper bracket
High temp brake grease for caliper pins
Sand paper for cleaning caliper bracket slots where brake pads ride
A turkey baster for removing some fluid from master cylinder
A bungee cord to secure the caliper when removed from the caliper bracket
New bottle of brake fluid to top off the master cylinder when finished

Also, while not required, recommend changing the brake pad hardware (clips and pin boots).

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post #4 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan2005 View Post
...Also remember to put on a little thread locker on the bolts to keep them from rattling out later on.
Good point on the thread locker. I forgot to mention in my post. I used on caliper and caliper bracket bolts.

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post #5 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:07 AM
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Yep exactly. Also like you said, don't forget the pad springs that force em back out. They are very easy to forget to replace. New ones should come with the new pads.

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post #6 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:21 AM
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FYI If you arent changing the rotor you dont need to pull the caliper mounting bracket

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post #7 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:25 AM
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DOH..... Yeah your right dave. I am so used to just doing both at the same time.

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post #8 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:28 AM
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The guide pins on the bracket were froze solid on the bottom of front and back of mine.Anyone else have this problem.I found it odd that it was only the bottom on every brake on the truck.
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post #9 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you very much for the quick responses guys. The rotors feel very smooth so I'm only going to change the pads. I've got 80,000 miles out of this set so I'm a happy camper. Thanks again.
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post #10 of 14 Old 09-06-2010, 06:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hodge1995 View Post
The guide pins on the bracket were froze solid on the bottom of front and back of mine.Anyone else have this problem.I found it odd that it was only the bottom on every brake on the truck.
By guide pins do you mean the pins that the caliper slides on? If so then yes those things do freeze up especially if your truck sits for a while and builds up moisture and then it rusts.

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