HFCM manifold cover - fuel line removal? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 08-13-2010, 10:01 PM
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HFCM manifold cover - fuel line removal?

Ok, so I keep getting a Drain Water Separator message on my 2008 F-350 and after repeated drains, I never get more than a BB sized drop of water in my sample container. I figure from other posts that my WIF sensor needs to be cleaned and/or I got jelly/gunk in the water chamber at the bottom of the HFCM manifold.

So, I plan on a two-step approach to cleaning this up.

1) I am going to remove the 3 bolts that hold the yellow level in place, and spray some carb/brake cleaner in the hole to try and clean out and/or dislodge any jelly/gunk that might be in there.

2) I understand I might be able to turn the WIF sensor counterclockwise 45 degrees and be able to pull it straight out. I haven't tried it yet, but if I can get it out - I'll clean the contacts and stick it back in.

So my dilemma -- I don't have a fuel line removal tool, and space is cramped as I'm going to be working on the truck in front of the house without a lift or pit to work in.

Is my plan going to work, or is the tank going to empty on me because I didn't remove the fuel lines? Has anyone removed the WIF sensor from the HFCM manifold without removing the cover first?

Greg
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:02 AM
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Don't bother trying to remove the WIF sensor

If you CAN get it out after a long in-service period, likely the thing will be too corroded for re-use. They are not that terribly expensive.

You CAN get it out of the manifold cover without pulling the pump or manifold.

If I could make a suggestion here though. If there's goop that high up in the HFCM, you might be further ahead to pull the pump right off the frame and pull the entire HFCM cover off and see what kind of sludge buildup is in the housing itself. You might be surprised (read: disgusted) at what you find.

If this were my truck, that is the way I would tackle the repair.

I would buy the fuel line disconnect set, personally. You'll need it down the road sometime. As for the fuel leakage concern, I would do this at a shop that has compressed air. Remove the filler cap, and remove the two lines (pump inlet and tank return) from the rearmost side of the HFCM. Force some compressed air down those lines to break the siphoning effect that will be present. Once you've got that done, you should be able to work relatively fuel-shower free. You are still going to get drainage from the engine side but it will be minimal.

As stated before, you might be further ahead to pull the whole pump and business off of there and clean out the goop inside. Also pull your secondary filter cap and filter and look in there for any sediment/water intrusion.
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Old 08-14-2010, 12:57 PM
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Thanks so much for the reply, Hillbilly. If I decide to take the 3 allen bolts off and remove the yellow drain lever, is there a gasket replacement involved before I put it back in? My mechanic won't be available for a few weeks (he has a lift and/or a pit to make it easier handling the fuel shower). I want to see if there's some sludge in there, Q-tip it/brake cleaner around it and see what I get behind the yellow drain lever.

Once my mechanic hs freed up, I'm gonna get a HFCM manifold gasket and we'll clean the whole manifold and change the fuel filter at the same time. He already has a set of fuel line disconnect tools.

Greg
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Old 08-14-2010, 08:23 PM
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I climbed under there today and tried to get the yellow lever out -- no go. The clearance between the torx bolts and the front drive axle (4x4) is so close I can't get my torx socket in there. I might have to see if Sears has one of those 1/4" bit socket wrenches, the kind that let you turn a bit with minimal clearance.

WTH would Ford put the HFCM in such a place as to make it such a huge pain in the butt. I'm wondering if the 2011 guys have the same issue.

Anyhow, I sprayed a little brake cleaner up in the yellow drain spigot, and it flows really good now -- but I still get a Drain Water Separator message after 10-15 miles of driving. I am convinced it's gunked up in the manifold and/or the sensor needs to be replaced. Anybody got a Part Number for the WIF sensor and a list price?

- Greg
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Old 08-15-2010, 05:28 AM
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You could use a 1/4" wrench to turn the Torx bits.

The WIF sensor part number escapes me right now. You'll want to buy it based on your VIN to make sure they get you the right sensor. I was going to get you the basic, but apparently my Ford screen is freezing up my computer.

The 2011 guys have a different filter system. Much easier to get at.

List price on their filters in Canada is $310 though, so to save over $200 every time I swap filters, I'll get a little diesel on myself
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