Updating to a job 2+ trans filtration setup

[Dusten]

I saw a thread about it, but can't for the life of me find it.

Rather than pay 155 every 30k plus fluids i'll pay a few hundred now and put a better filter on the truck.

I know I need the trans pan, and filter. Anything else? part numbers maybe?

[2x6 bulldog]

We need a kit from one of the vendors to do this. I was thinking the same thing today. I remember the post as well.

[Dusten]

and because of the stupid search settings i can't search for things like pan or job

[ZeroOne]

Ok, I'm piecing this together from another forum. Credit to "Gearjammer" ond TDS for all of the work, part numbers, and research in verifying that this works.

My transmission upgrade has finally been completed. The external filter has been eliminated and my transmission filter, pan and lines are now JOB-2 and later style.

Reference to flow-restriction, and the part numbers needed:

A friend of mine is a Master Tech and he did it. He removed a nut on the driver's side of the transmission and screwed in a pressure gauge in the same port that you would stick a probe for a temperature gauge. The flow test is done by loosening the return line and letting the fluid drain into a graduated container for about 15 seconds.

The valve body has been the same since 2005. The front pump was changed with the job-2 changes. Both pumps have the same pressure rating and are interchangeable with each other so that's a non issue.

The part number for the new pan is 8C3Z 7A194 B and lists for $76.65. The gasket number is F6TZ 7A191 A and lists for $29.22. The screen or filter number is 8C3Z 7A098 D and list for $59.02. I'll have to get back to you on the line numbers.

I have no idea how a MAG-HYTEC pan would work with this. I had one on my 99 and 01 but never bothered to put one on my 05 and 08.

Other info:

There is one situation where a word of caution is needed. TSB 08-26-4 is about cold weather transmission failure in vehicles built between 05/18/2007 and 11/01/2008. In this instance you only need to worry about the early build transmissions. Pump 9C3Z-7A103-B is installed to correct the situation and it should not be installed if you decide not to change your transmission lines and leave the external filter in place.

I'll make the standard disclaimer at this time. If you do this modification, you do so at your own risk.

The correct part number for the transmission lines are; 8C3Z-7R-081-C and list for $88.25 and 7C32-7R-081-D which list for $56.87. If I had to do it all over again I would not have the lines changed and leave the external filter in place and just change the pan, filter, and gasket. Besides the added expense of the lines, the motor mounts have to be loosened and the front of the motor jacked up a few inches to change the lines.

Flow and pressure tests were performed before and after the filter and pan were installed and before and after when the lines were installed.

Bottom line here is a JOB-1 transmission can be converted to the better filter and deeper pan set up on the later build transmissions.

Hope this information helps. Again, credit to Gearjammer on TDS. I may do this next time (60k). Not sure what to do about the external filter in this case. I feel it is better for the pump to take it out, but don't feel like going through the hassle of changing the lines. There may be some way to cut the lines and put in plain sections of tube.

It would be nice to have a kit from a vendor. Pan, filter, re-usable gasket, and pieces to remove / blank out the section for the external filter.

[Dusten]

with as little fluid as goes through that filter, im not concerned with it. i may call my ford dealer today and go get those parts.

i really appreciate the work on that. I am due for a fluid/filter change and that setup is as expensive as a new filter. so i see no reason not to do it.

[wontonrunner]

I just had my first flush done at 100,000km's. I was concerned that the pan was going to be super dirty and the screen full of crap so I paid an extra $100 to have the pan pulled, cleaned and inspected. My buddy is the mechanic that worked on it and he said it was clean and there was nothing to worry about. Everyone gives the external filter a bad wrap but it must work to some extent otherwise my pan would have been a lot worse.

[Dusten]

Originally Posted by wontonrunner

I just had my first flush done at 100,000km's. I was concerned that the pan was going to be super dirty and the screen full of crap so I paid an extra $100 to have the pan pulled, cleaned and inspected. My buddy is the mechanic that worked on it and he said it was clean and there was nothing to worry about. Everyone gives the external filter a bad wrap but it must work to some extent otherwise my pan would have been a lot worse.

my concern is this... 150 for a filter every 30k or 55 for a filter every 60k. the pan, gasket and filter for the update are going to cost me 10 more than the stock filter. its a no brainer to me.

[ZeroOne]

Originally Posted by Dusten

with as little fluid as goes through that filter, im not concerned with it. i may call my ford dealer today and go get those parts.

i really appreciate the work on that. I am due for a fluid/filter change and that setup is as expensive as a new filter. so i see no reason not to do it.

I would have done the same, but had not done the research. It wasn't until shortly after that I started googling this info, given the job1 filter price listed on my receipt.

It's not that the external is weak (though 10% is nothing compared to the in-pan's 100%) but the price on the external... and availability. Plus, it seems like a good idea to drop the pan and have a look around each time.

[wontonrunner]

Originally Posted by Dusten

my concern is this... 150 for a filter every 30k or 55 for a filter every 60k. the pan, gasket and filter for the update are going to cost me 10 more than the stock filter. its a no brainer to me.

What filter did you pay $150 for? The internal filter on a job 1 is $80 from the dealer, but it is only a fine mesh stainless steel screen so when he pulled the pan, he cleaned it out and cleaned the old screen and put it back in. The external filter was $30 if i recall correctly for a jobber and is suppose to be changed at 30,000 anyways.

The external filter is part of the standard flush anways and if you have to pull the pan to change the internal screen then why not keep the original one that doesnt need replacing rather than install a new one that you have to pay to replace because it cannot be cleaned.

[wontonrunner]

Originally Posted by ZeroOne

I would have done the same, but had not done the research. It wasn't until shortly after that I started googling this info, given the job1 filter price listed on my receipt.

It's not that the external is weak (though 10% is nothing compared to the in-pan's 100%) but the price on the external... and availability. Plus, it seems like a good idea to drop the pan and have a look around each time.

10 % doesn't sound like a big number but when you consider that this is 10% of the fluid volume and consider that the fluid is circulated hundreds of thousands of times between flushes...that is still all of the fluid being filtered a significant amount of times between flushes.