High Idle mod?

[Rotorfixer]

oh ya, it also clearly says in the diesel manual supplement that you shouldn't, under any circumstances, idle the engine longer that 10 minutes without the use of an approved elevated idle controller!

This link is a good read, touches on these subjects and how to avoid them. Reminds me that I want to do my "initiation/ glazing removal tow" before it's "too late"

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

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Last edited by Rotorfixer : 10-21-2009 at 09:32 AM. Reason: link to more info

[Rotorfixer]

Originally Posted by tlb017

Other than that maybe a run into the store while fueling.

Thanks again

Running while fueling AND walking away ! tisk tisk! j/k

[tlb017]

Originally Posted by Rotorfixer

Running while fueling AND walking away ! tisk tisk! j/k

Yeah I know, It bit me in the A$$ one time, luckly I back at the front of the truck about the time the tank was full and it decided it didnt want to shut off on its own. Nice clean truck with green all down the side within a matter of seconds.

[Rotorfixer]

haha, nice....

Green fuel is better than red fire though! maybe you can mix it up by somehow using your cell phone at the same time, really get peoples attention!

[tlb017]

Yep cell phone and lighting a cig after spilling fuel, that will get everyones attention

[Rotorfixer]

In my industry that process is called "Jet-dry"

1) Wash with Jet fuel

2) Dry with match

[po-po 5.0]

Originally Posted by Rotorfixer

ummmm .... no.

Not monitoring it has nothing to do with it not plugging up!

I don't understand. Or maybe you don't. I was suggesting that one could remove the DPF, turn on the high idle switch, leave it on permanently, and possibly never get a MIL or perma-regen.

[Rotorfixer]

I see, now I understand.

I was driving my truck at lunch (of course still in regen) and I decided to try to flick the switch.... nothing happened, stayed in regen. I am wondering if the info I got was wrong!

Maybe someone who actually knows could chime in.... I will ask the person who told me that what their source is, if I can remember the thread.

[ol38y]

I found the bundle of wires I believe the seic wire is in but can't find one labeled for it. The tape with the wire codes is mangled and unreadable also. Does anyone know what the color code is for the seic??? Thanks

[sparksjr]

Originally Posted by elibenson

It's really easy. Above the parking brake petal there is two bundles of wires that have been capped at the factory. One has 4 wires, which is for the upfitter switches. There are 2 large and 2 small. The 2 large ones are for switches 1&2, and they have somewhere near 30A for running fog lights, inverters, etc. The other 2 are for 3&4. #3 is a 15A, and #4 is a 10A. I would suggest using the 10A one. The mod doesn't even need that much. A test light will show you which is which.

Now, there is another bundle of wires. This one has about a dozen wires. They are for companies that do body modifications and such. They contain data signals for the speedo, tach, a bunch of stuff. One of them will be labeled SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control). When you apply power to this wire, and the parking brake is set (and in park) it will idle the engine up to 1200 rpm. So connect your upfitter switch to this wire, and presto!

If you want to get fancy, you could put in a potentiometer (variable resistor) in the line between the power and the SEIC wire. It would allow you to dial in the RPM to whatever you want. I forget what size Pot you need. If you only run 12V power to the SEIC wire, it defaults to 1200 rpm.

High idle also tends to cycle your cooling fan while it is active. Even when the engine is not heating up. I think this is to keep it from heating up without any air flow. It also helps the A/C work effectively. Keeps the truck cool on them hot days.

good luck

Holy crap this was easy...thank you for this...