Straight water ? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 
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post #1 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Question Straight water ?

Has anyone ever ran straight water in the summer ?
The reason i ask is i hear of people running coolant filters because the coolant gets yuckie (i guess).

I know antifreeze must be used in winter & summe it has a higher boiling point
but running straight water in the summer its proven straight water cool`s
faster & longer in the summer then with antifreeze.

i run straight water in my race car & it helps

So has anyone ran straight water in summer, i think it would also be cleaner
just wanted your 2 cents, thanks, Dave

2005 f-350
crew cab, long bed,
AFE,
side exit, 4 inch with 5 inch tip, straight pipe,
2 inch levelling kit
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post #2 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 01:20 PM
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Well there is no lubricating properties in straight water so unless you run water wetter or something its really not a good thing for the water pump

Nov 2003 built
2004 PSD F250.
SC Long Bed SRW
EGR delete, Studs, Swamps FICM, 4" turbo back
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post #3 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 01:22 PM
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if you were in a pinch you could use straight water because the boiling point of water is 212 degrees, water actually transfers heat better than antifreeze. and adding antifreeze raises the boiling point a certain amount and lowers the freezing point at the same time but it is also providing a small amount of corrosion resistance. all in all i would rather run straight antifreeze or a mix because it will last longer and you wont deal with rust or corrosion

-Evan

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Yeah, but your trucks a freak of nature...
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post #4 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 01:48 PM
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i would run distilled water and diesel water wetter and it should be fine. i just dont like throwing away/ flushing that huge system

'99.5 F-250 SD PSD CCLB 4X4
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post #5 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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thanks guys u made up my mind !
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post #6 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 05:07 PM
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Ford states to never run below 40% and never run over 60%. The reasons are several fold:
1. Corrosion protection (and not just a little, but a lot - especially aluminum).
2. Pump cavitation protection
3. Pump lubrication
4. Deposit (percipitation) control
5. Proper heat transfer
6. Proper boiling point elevation and freezing point suppression

Keep in mind that higher heat transfer may not be the best thing. Skin temperatures of metal cause the coolant temperatures to experience localized areas of higher than average temperatures. This can cause boiling at the metal surfaces and this increases corrosion and solids deposition.

Mark
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter; High-Idle;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax trans case;Fumoto valves;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's; BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL;ELC Ultra
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post #7 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 05:14 PM
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electrolysis???????????????????

2000 7.3 Few mods...SOLD
2003 Common Rail tow rig / DD

2006 Harley edition F-250.. 10in Fab, 24in Rockstars, 38x14 Kuhmos, 4in MBRP, Gearhead tunes...NO STUDS
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 06:25 PM
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i have never ran anything but motorcraft gold in my truck

-Evan

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post #9 of 9 Old 05-03-2009, 06:35 PM
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Motorcraft Gold and Distilled here!!

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