2006 6.0 EGR Valve Mod/Replacement - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 12-31-2008, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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2006 6.0 EGR Valve Mod/Replacement

I have a 2006 6.0 with 11,500 miles on it. At approximately 7000 miles I got a CEL so I took it in to the Ford dealership. It was a stuck gummed up EGR valve. Since then I have been researching solutions.
My idea is to place a new EGR valve in the intake (to make sure the valve is closed) keeping it unplugged to the computer, and run the existing EGR valve outside the intake keeping it plugged to the computer. As long as the warranty is in effect I want to keep the engine as stock as possible. Will this set up have any adverse affect on the EGR cooler temp? If the cooler blows, will the closed EGR valve keep coolant out of the intake? What about placing the E-bay solid metal spool plug in place of the EGR valve? Has anyone done this?

Thanks.
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post #2 of 15 Old 12-31-2008, 10:14 AM
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Just unplug the existing one and clean it. With it being unplugged it defaults closed

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post #3 of 15 Old 12-31-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainMan View Post
I have a 2006 6.0 with 11,500 miles on it. At approximately 7000 miles I got a CEL so I took it in to the Ford dealership. It was a stuck gummed up EGR valve. Since then I have been researching solutions.
My idea is to place a new EGR valve in the intake (to make sure the valve is closed) keeping it unplugged to the computer, and run the existing EGR valve outside the intake keeping it plugged to the computer. As long as the warranty is in effect I want to keep the engine as stock as possible. Will this set up have any adverse affect on the EGR cooler temp? If the cooler blows, will the closed EGR valve keep coolant out of the intake? What about placing the E-bay solid metal spool plug in place of the EGR valve? Has anyone done this?

Thanks.
First off that truck isn't being driven hard enough for a long enough period of time. You got to keep her hot to prevent that carbon from sticking to everything including the turbo.

Okay to your post, all you are doing is putting a band-aid on your problem. Unplugging the EGR works but you can still cause a cooler failure by overheating that small cooler with exhaust gases. There is a better option that requires some work, but works VERY well.
I'll post some links to all this later.

Remove the EGR up-pipe, this connects to the EGR cooler behind the turbo. It can be done by you in the driveway, it's not easy to get to but can be done. Inside that pipe you will see a small scoop. this directs exhaust flow into the EGR cooler. This scoop can be cut out and the "T" section welded closed to prevent flow to the EGR cooler. This will prevent hot exhaust gases from entering the EGR cooler helping to prevent boiling the coolant and EGR cooler failure. Your truck may throw a CEL due to low EGR flow (go figure). If you don't want to see the CEL, you would need a SCT with a custom tune to remove the EGR operation.

I know you may want to stay stock, but if you do you need to drive that truck getting that motor hot to burn off that carbon.


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post #4 of 15 Old 02-03-2009, 12:59 PM
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Unhappy UPHILL PERFORMANCE

I ALSO HAVE A 2006 F350 6.0. THE EGR CRAPPED OUT IN CANADA WHILE PULLING MY 5TH WHEEL. IT WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. ABOUT 300 MILES LATER THE EGR COOLER WENT OUT. AFTER A $700 TOW BILL IN MONTREAL THE DEALER REPLACED THE COOLER (WARRANTY). I ALSO HAVE A WHISTLING SOUND AT TIMES. WHILE PULLING THE 5TH UP HILL THE TEMP NEEDLE RISES TO ALMOST HIGH. THE FAN CLUTCH COMES ON AND USUALLY THE TEMP RECEDES. I LET OFF THE THROTTLE AT THE TIME THE TEMP RISES. THE 5TH WEIGHS IN ABOUT 13K BUT THE TRUCK SEEMS TO STRUGGLE TO MAINTAIN UP HILL SPEED. AT TIMES I HAVE SLOWED DOWN TO 30MPH TO GET OVER THE HILL. I AM LEAVING ON A 6K MILE TRIP IN MAY PULLING THE 5TH AND AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT THE RELIABILITY, ESPECIALLY AFTER READING ABOUT THE ISSUES IN THIS FORUM. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. MY FIRST DIESEL. THANKS.
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post #5 of 15 Old 02-03-2009, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOM L ROSS View Post
I ALSO HAVE A 2006 F350 6.0. THE EGR CRAPPED OUT IN CANADA WHILE PULLING MY 5TH WHEEL. IT WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. ABOUT 300 MILES LATER THE EGR COOLER WENT OUT. AFTER A $700 TOW BILL IN MONTREAL THE DEALER REPLACED THE COOLER (WARRANTY). I ALSO HAVE A WHISTLING SOUND AT TIMES. WHILE PULLING THE 5TH UP HILL THE TEMP NEEDLE RISES TO ALMOST HIGH. THE FAN CLUTCH COMES ON AND USUALLY THE TEMP RECEDES. I LET OFF THE THROTTLE AT THE TIME THE TEMP RISES. THE 5TH WEIGHS IN ABOUT 13K BUT THE TRUCK SEEMS TO STRUGGLE TO MAINTAIN UP HILL SPEED. AT TIMES I HAVE SLOWED DOWN TO 30MPH TO GET OVER THE HILL. I AM LEAVING ON A 6K MILE TRIP IN MAY PULLING THE 5TH AND AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT THE RELIABILITY, ESPECIALLY AFTER READING ABOUT THE ISSUES IN THIS FORUM. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. MY FIRST DIESEL. THANKS.
Im ignorant to mechanics but i do believe the oil cooler also has to be replaced if a new a new egr cooler is going in. perhaps ur truck gets to hot towing,high egts, if ur concerned about ur warranty, find an exhaust co,(afe,mbrp) and straight pipe the exhaust (after the turbo down pipe) and bolt on the factory exhaust and cat when u visit the dealer. u shall reduce the egt's and ur 6.0 will run a lot cooler.

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post #6 of 15 Old 02-03-2009, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TOM L ROSS View Post
I ALSO HAVE A 2006 F350 6.0. THE EGR CRAPPED OUT IN CANADA WHILE PULLING MY 5TH WHEEL. IT WAS REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY. ABOUT 300 MILES LATER THE EGR COOLER WENT OUT. AFTER A $700 TOW BILL IN MONTREAL THE DEALER REPLACED THE COOLER (WARRANTY). I ALSO HAVE A WHISTLING SOUND AT TIMES. WHILE PULLING THE 5TH UP HILL THE TEMP NEEDLE RISES TO ALMOST HIGH. THE FAN CLUTCH COMES ON AND USUALLY THE TEMP RECEDES. I LET OFF THE THROTTLE AT THE TIME THE TEMP RISES. THE 5TH WEIGHS IN ABOUT 13K BUT THE TRUCK SEEMS TO STRUGGLE TO MAINTAIN UP HILL SPEED. AT TIMES I HAVE SLOWED DOWN TO 30MPH TO GET OVER THE HILL. I AM LEAVING ON A 6K MILE TRIP IN MAY PULLING THE 5TH AND AM VERY CONCERNED ABOUT THE RELIABILITY, ESPECIALLY AFTER READING ABOUT THE ISSUES IN THIS FORUM. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE APPRECIATED. MY FIRST DIESEL. THANKS.
My truck has has the same "towing" problem as you. Dont remember what it was since the truck wasnt mine at the time, but ever since I got my exhaust,intake, and SCT I havent had any problems

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post #7 of 15 Old 02-04-2009, 12:52 PM
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Heres what I just bought worth the money. EGT's 50-75 deg. cooler and truck feels like it has a little more mid range power it could be in my head.
eBay Motors: Ford 6.0 Diesel EGR Eliminator - Spool W/clamps - bolts (item 280305987699 end time Feb-22-09 19:30:46 PST)
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post #8 of 15 Old 02-10-2009, 07:26 AM
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I have the same prob. with my 2004 6.0L. I have had the EGR cooler replaced and now the code is for the EGR. Is there any special thing to do to remove the EGR or does it just pull straight up and out?
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post #9 of 15 Old 02-18-2010, 10:02 PM
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This like most of the threads on here has been very informative thanks s for all the great info. I was about to order a new set of injectors thinking that was my problem till I read this thread. But I do have a question that I don't think was covered I have an 06 f350 6.0 I pulled the EGR it was completely coked up cleaned vacumed what I could out of the intake and plan on doing the full delete but how if there is a way do you keep the intake from becoming clogged with carbon deposits? Mine needs to be pulled and vatted again the ford house pulled it and cleaned it about 45,000 miles ago and its clogged up again will the egr delet help with this problem? Or is there something else at play here?

Thanks for all the usable info
James
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post #10 of 15 Old 02-19-2010, 03:37 AM
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After 20k my 2006 was extremely clogged. The solids were very thick and oily (not wet with water, but shiny and oily).

1. I installed a new EGR valve (there were improvements in the shaft seals and spring)
2. I had the processors flashed (updated the programming) - definite improvements in the programming have been made over the last few years
3. Installed the ccv mod (kept oil out of the intake)
4. Started using cetane booster EVERY tank
5. Modified driving style somewhat - almost NO extended idles, wait till the engine is warm before romping on it (at least 10 minutes), after it is warm I work it hard at least a few times a month. I also installed the high idle mod.
6. I also watch fuel prssure closely to make sure it does not get too low. I recently felt the need for the bb mod.
7. Keep the oil and filter changed regularly w/ OEM filters. I highly recommend a 5W40 oil because of potential stiction. Whenever you run rough, you are most likely building carbon.

I have pulled and inspected my EGR valve once since then (currently at 60k miles) and it had only a light, dry coating (no oily thick carbon and sludge).

I also think fuel now may be a little better in the cetane content than 3 years ago, but have no way to prove it.

I still run the EGR system and it appears to be working very well and causing no issues that would be concerning.

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Last edited by bismic; 02-19-2010 at 06:49 AM.
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