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  #11  
Old 12-29-2008, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 19558077 View Post
BIGCOUNTRYSG IS WHO YOU NEED TO POST, HE'S THE GURU. ONE HERE THEY SAY DANA TRU TRACK FOR A DAILY DRIVER.AND MAYBE THE ARB. THE DETROIT LOCKER IS NOT VERY FORGIVING, GOOD FOR OFF ROADER, BUT NOT A D.D. RAUL AT STEALTH AUTO CAN FIX YOU UP ONCE YOU DECIDE, AND GOOD LUCK THERE ABOUT SIX TO $750 A SHOT, PLUS INSTALL.
All caps, when used in a forum like this, means you are yelling.
It's also very hard to read. Might wanna click off the caps lock.
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  #12  
Old 12-29-2008, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justang View Post
After this weekend I'm looking into lockers. I was up in the snow and 4wd is really only 2wd when two wheels are slipping... and that pretty much sucks!

In my findings I found that the Eaton e-locker is made for our Dana 60 front end, but not for the 10.5 Sterling rear end. You could do an e-locker in front and a locker in back, but I read that running with a locker while towing or in snow/ice can be tricky.

Next I looked at the ARB air lockers. They make them for both front and rear of our trucks. For some reason I wasn't comfortable with the idea of running air lockers. I just think of all that could go wrong, all that could fail. I just felt like you were going from electricity to air compression, to locker activation when e-locker would be electricity to locker activations... you just cut a step out. I wish they were electric lockers. But since most people like them, I looked further. They seem to be reliable. But are pretty expensive. You have to buy the lockers and then the compressor too. I got to thinking about it, and figure if I'm going to run an air compressor, I want to be able to activate the lockers, air up tires, run air tools, and pretty much anything you can think of. I figure a 3-5gal tank would be a good idea too. So this got me to looking at air compressors. There are two basic kinds you can get... a simple 12v compressor (like the one ARB sells... but ARB's is a light duty compressor with a 20% duty cycle. Enough for just activating the lockers, but not much else.), or a belt driven compressor. Obviously the belt driven will give you more power and fill up a tank much faster. But at a price. Extremeoutback sells just the mounting bracket for $799! Then the compressor is $420. So, you're talking over $1200 and you have an awesome system. The compressor is pretty awesome, it's 8cfm @ 100psi and 200psi max working pressure. On my truck I have dual alternators, and read that they typically mount the compressor where the second alternator goes... I don't want to give up that second alternator so maybe a 12v compressor is what I should go with. For less than $600 you can get the ExtremeAire Magnum (1.5hp, 2.6cfm @ 100psi, 150psi max working pressure, continuous duty). It's a sealed system so you can mount it anywhere... I was planning in the frame rail somewhere and mounting a 3-5gal air tank under the bed.

Lockers in front, nah not a good idea for me. The TrueTrac in the rear was a possibility, but it's basically a better LSD. If you have one tire off the ground, it won't spin both wheels. Some say you can overcome this using the e-brake... but I don't wanna have to do that. Ease of use is what I want. What I really want is for Auburn to make the ECTED for our Sterling 10.5. It's a electrically selectable locker that is a limited slip when unlocked (vs open differential which is what the e-locker and the ARB is). The Auburn ECTED in the rear and the Detroit e-locker in front would be my ultimate combination.

Here's my dilemma. What if your air system fails when you are out? No lockers. That would royally suck. Right now I'm deciding if I want to do both front and rear ARB air lockers. Or a front e-locker, and a rear air locker. That way if my air system fails, I always have the front e-locker to help out (one locker is better than none). I think I'm being overly cautious, I haven't read where the air systems have failed. And if I have a tank that has at least 85psi I should be able to activate the lockers (I read that some people have gotten their lockers to activate with as little as 25psi). But I guess that's just me, I want to make sure everything is going to work when you need it. If you can't ensure it will work, then have a back up plan (e-locker). No matter which route I go, I'm doing an on-board air system because I want the utility of airing up tires and using tools as needed.

opinions?
I have run with lots of people that swear by the ARB, in all the years I have been wheeling I have only run into one situation where and ARB didn't work. I think he cut his air line. Took a bit to patch but he did get it back running again.

I personally don't have lockers in my PSD but do in my Jeep. I use the detroit lockers. I drove my Jeep daily for 2 years before buying another truck and the detroit in the rear didn't bother me. I do however live in Texas and we very seldom deal with snow. As with any mod, you have to be aware and just be cautious it's there. What is wrong with Detroit in rear (full time locker) and ARB in front? Someone else may have a different opinion as I know a Jeep and PSD are totally different.

When you are budgeting for this don't forget gears. As mentioned earlier, the ring gear has to come off the carrier in order to install a full locker. There is no better time to regear!

Keep us posted!
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  #13  
Old 12-29-2008, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lonestarcj7 View Post
I have run with lots of people that swear by the ARB, in all the years I have been wheeling I have only run into one situation where and ARB didn't work. I think he cut his air line. Took a bit to patch but he did get it back running again.

I personally don't have lockers in my PSD but do in my Jeep. I use the detroit lockers. I drove my Jeep daily for 2 years before buying another truck and the detroit in the rear didn't bother me. I do however live in Texas and we very seldom deal with snow. As with any mod, you have to be aware and just be cautious it's there. What is wrong with Detroit in rear (full time locker) and ARB in front? Someone else may have a different opinion as I know a Jeep and PSD are totally different.

When you are budgeting for this don't forget gears. As mentioned earlier, the ring gear has to come off the carrier in order to install a full locker. There is no better time to regear!

Keep us posted!

Since this is my daily driver, and I hear mixed results about the locker in the snow, ice, and while towing I think I'm just gonna do a selectable locker in both front and rear. I had given it serious thought to do a locker in the rear and a selectable in the front, but need this truck to have good driving manners all the time. The locker seems to change those manners.

When I do my lockers I'm going to 4.10's. Since the stock wheels are 34" tall, and with my lift I'm only going to a 35" tall tire, 4.10's are all I'm going to need. Heck, only going up and inch in tire size I could probably just keep the 3.73's. On a tire size calc it said my effective rear ratio will go to a 3.63 with a 1" increase in tire size.
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  #14  
Old 12-29-2008, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Justang View Post
After this weekend I'm looking into lockers. I was up in the snow and 4wd is really only 2wd when two wheels are slipping... and that pretty much sucks!

In my findings I found that the Eaton e-locker is made for our Dana 60 front end, but not for the 10.5 Sterling rear end. You could do an e-locker in front and a locker in back, but I read that running with a locker while towing or in snow/ice can be tricky.

Next I looked at the ARB air lockers. They make them for both front and rear of our trucks. For some reason I wasn't comfortable with the idea of running air lockers. I just think of all that could go wrong, all that could fail. I just felt like you were going from electricity to air compression, to locker activation when e-locker would be electricity to locker activations... you just cut a step out. I wish they were electric lockers. But since most people like them, I looked further. They seem to be reliable. But are pretty expensive. You have to buy the lockers and then the compressor too. I got to thinking about it, and figure if I'm going to run an air compressor, I want to be able to activate the lockers, air up tires, run air tools, and pretty much anything you can think of. I figure a 3-5gal tank would be a good idea too. So this got me to looking at air compressors. There are two basic kinds you can get... a simple 12v compressor (like the one ARB sells... but ARB's is a light duty compressor with a 20% duty cycle. Enough for just activating the lockers, but not much else.), or a belt driven compressor. Obviously the belt driven will give you more power and fill up a tank much faster. But at a price. Extremeoutback sells just the mounting bracket for $799! Then the compressor is $420. So, you're talking over $1200 and you have an awesome system. The compressor is pretty awesome, it's 8cfm @ 100psi and 200psi max working pressure. On my truck I have dual alternators, and read that they typically mount the compressor where the second alternator goes... I don't want to give up that second alternator so maybe a 12v compressor is what I should go with. For less than $600 you can get the ExtremeAire Magnum (1.5hp, 2.6cfm @ 100psi, 150psi max working pressure, continuous duty). It's a sealed system so you can mount it anywhere... I was planning in the frame rail somewhere and mounting a 3-5gal air tank under the bed.

Lockers in front, nah not a good idea for me. The TrueTrac in the rear was a possibility, but it's basically a better LSD. If you have one tire off the ground, it won't spin both wheels. Some say you can overcome this using the e-brake... but I don't wanna have to do that. Ease of use is what I want. What I really want is for Auburn to make the ECTED for our Sterling 10.5. It's a electrically selectable locker that is a limited slip when unlocked (vs open differential which is what the e-locker and the ARB is). The Auburn ECTED in the rear and the Detroit e-locker in front would be my ultimate combination.

Here's my dilemma. What if your air system fails when you are out? No lockers. That would royally suck. Right now I'm deciding if I want to do both front and rear ARB air lockers. Or a front e-locker, and a rear air locker. That way if my air system fails, I always have the front e-locker to help out (one locker is better than none). I think I'm being overly cautious, I haven't read where the air systems have failed. And if I have a tank that has at least 85psi I should be able to activate the lockers (I read that some people have gotten their lockers to activate with as little as 25psi). But I guess that's just me, I want to make sure everything is going to work when you need it. If you can't ensure it will work, then have a back up plan (e-locker). No matter which route I go, I'm doing an on-board air system because I want the utility of airing up tires and using tools as needed.

opinions?
good info and research, let us know what you decide to get.
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  #15  
Old 12-29-2008, 07:53 AM
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Why is Air so bad? Ive had train horns with a VIAR compressor and 2 gallon tank and they work fine.

If I would do it again i would run 2 VIAR 100% duty cycle 200psi with 2 5 gallon tanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by drz400smoto View Post
good info and research, let us know what you decide to get.
Yes please do.
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  #16  
Old 12-29-2008, 09:33 AM
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It's not that air is bad, it's just more that *could* go wrong. How do you like your VAIR? I looked at the 450's, but then found the extremeair magnum that has better performance (and a heftier price). I was just reading about the Oasis XD4000. If you want the ultimate in 12v air compressors this is the model, it's pretty much the same specs as the belt driven compressor. It's $1600 though! And will draw up to 180amps. Made in the USA too. But to run that you absolutely need to have a dual alt set up, or one really HO alt setup.
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2009, 05:18 PM
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I'm still researching... I've been researching the truetrac. Like I said above I wish Auburn would make the ECTED for our rear end. But they don't. When daily driving I would like to have both rear tires spinning when I accelerate hard, I hate one wheel wonders. And this Ford LSD sucks a big fat one! Might as well not be back there. So I'm thinking a selectable locker is not what I want in the rear. So the truetrac is looking better. Eaton says tires larger than 33's are not recommended. My truck has 34's stock, and I plan on going to 35's. But, many have been running them with larger tires and no problems. I have read about a few people that have had the truetrac and they broke, but not many. I also read that if you replace the case bolts with ARP bolts it will be stronger.

So, right now I'm looking at the eaton e-locker for the front and the truetrac in the rear. And, I still want to do the air compressor to run tools and air up tires. We'll see, I'm going to keep researching.
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  #18  
Old 01-29-2009, 10:43 AM
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just watch this video: YouTube - Difference btw. Locker and Limited Slip

You need a locker in the rear or front. I prefer limited slip in the rear and locker in the front.
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