haven't gotten to that stage yet, as I'll do top end stuff first; but once i get to the lower end, will I have to remove the rear cover in order to replace bed plate seal? Isn't that where the motor connects to the engine stand?
If so, with the heads removed, is it safe to rest it on a cradle made out of wood?
Once I flip it with the engine stand, how to connect to hoist to bottom of eninge in order to lower on cradle?
Yes, the rear cover does need removed. On a common one post engine stand you would typically mount the engine to the rear cover using the bell housing bolt holes However the 6.0 doesn't allow this on a total engine reseal. The engine stand I use is a 2 post with adapters that bolt in the location of the engine mounts (on the side rather than the rear). This allows the engine to be basically on a rotisserie. It is best to get the engine upside down to do the bed plate gaskets
anyone know how to put engine on hoist after i flip it? I want to flip, put on chains and then lower to ground on some 4*4's. I'll wedge on either end just to give it a bigger base.
The hoist part on an upside down engine is what has me stumped!
1. flipped it on engine stand.
2. chained it: two bolts on rear through bell housing/block and wrapped around the posts on front...have no idea what was attached there...think it was radiator... seemed solid.
3. lifted engine and engine stand...pulled engine stand off adaptor plate.
4. lowered engine on 2 X 4's
thanks, I knew they did something important, just couldn't remember.
So I took off flex wheel, and bolts for rear cover. I was reading in shop manual that I have to use a putty knife to cut the seal between the block and cover....is that truly the only thing holding it on now, sealant? I'm always pretty hesitant about messing something up....I can wiggle the plate but its clearly still stuck on there.
How will I be able to tell if the main bearings are bad? I mean if they are cheap enough to replace I might as well (I know, cheap is relative).
I dropped off my heads today, and machinist said he highly recommends not sandblasting the outsides of the heads...glass beads getting "all in it." Who am I to doubt him, but really was looking forward to super clean and painted (lower cylinder heads). thoughts anyone? really that bad of an idea? I guess it probably won't happen anyway...those heavy *** heads will probably bring my cheap HF cabinet to its knees.:rofl:
Nope those are rod bearings. The mains are what the bedplate sandwiches with the rest of the block. I wouldn't replace the mains unless they had copper showing through. Most likely they'll look a little weird and not worn evenly but I've seen a lot like that, and no main failures to date on a 6.0.
The rear cover just pops off once all the bolts are out, you don't need to cut the T joint because you won't be reusing the bedplate gaskets. If you were just servicing the front or rear cover then you would want to cut the joint to keep from stretching out the bedplate gasket when either cover is removed. Once you stretch the gasket its not likely to seal very well anymore.
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