Compression Ignition Addict
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Things to look over when buying used:
Look for signs of coolant degas bottle overflow (dry white residue on and around the degas bottle or no level in degas bottle).
Lots of idling can cause EGR problems. I look at the hours on the engine (if it has this monitored) and divide the miles by the hours (is it below 30? If so, may have had lots of idling).
Even without much extended idling EGR valves can plug quickly - maybe negotiate for*a new EGR valve. In fact, I would negotiate for them to pull the EGR valve to inspect it (have them show it to you when it is out and then you need to look into the intake).* Check for wetness (w/ rear end jacked up) and for excess soot. Wetness indicates an EGR cooler leak. If the valve is gunked up, have them replace the valve.* If the intake is real bad, you may push them to clean it as well.*
Look underneath for oil leaks - some trucks have had a lot of them
If you buy from a dealership, I would negotiate for them to install the latest flash of all 3 processors (PCM, FICM, ECM).
Negotiating for an extended warranty is always a good thing as well.
Try to find out about the routine maintenance:
· Filter change intervals on time? What kind of oil (CI4+ or CJ4 - one of these is required)?
· OEM filters? Look at them and see what kind they are. Aftermarket filters can cause MAJOR problems.
· Find proof of Transmission being flushed/changed - it is recommended every 30,000 miles.
· Any exhaust problems visible (i.e. lots of white or blue smoke)? White smoke may mean an EGR cooler leak.
Check for any FLUID leaks (as stated previously - LOOK SPECIFICALLY FOR OIL LEAKS - 6.0L are prone to many of these from many possible places!!)
CEL (Check Engine Light) on? Consider getting a code reader and check for DTC's. You can have active DTC's without a CEL.
The Electronic Shift on the Fly (ESOF) sometimes fails due to vacuum leaks. Be sure to check this out (several times in and out of 4WD and/or take front wheels off to inspect).
Check for excessive wheel bearing wear (looseness), sway bar (end link looseness),*or ball joint looseness.* Ball joints and sway bar end links tend to go out in the 70k-90k range. Jack one side up at a time and see if each wheel moves top to bottom only, if so, it is the ball joints. If it moves in all directions then probably wheel bearings.
Check the coolant - it should have the Motorcraft Gold Coolant - anything else and there may be problems.* Look in the "degas" bottle and inspect the fluid - it should be gold colored and there should be NO OIL visible (oil emulsified in water can show up as brown sludge).* As previously stated, the degas bottle should not have white residue around the sides of it (possible overheating issues).
Any evidence of a tuner (aftermarket air filter, gauges, etc)? Tuners may or may not be bad. Some tuners are MURDER on the transmission. Some dealerships will cause you a lot of problems w/ them - even if you bought it that way used.
Aftermarket air systems could be a problem.* Many of them (like K&N) do not filter as well and could cause issues.* Up to 500 hp, the stock air system is best!
Try to find out if the original owner ever ran it empty on fuel or have plugged filters (fuel pressure below 45 psig can damage injectors)?
Then the common stuff I'm sure you know:
· Look at and smell the fluids.* Make sure fluids not burnt, not too thick or dirty.
· Check the tires - should have over half the life left at this mileage - abnormal wear?
· How do the brakes look?* Any pads need replacement?* Are the rear brakes excessively worn?
· All electronics working? Especially the AC (repair can be expensive)?
· Dents? Air bag been replaced, etc.
· See if he has any repair or maintenance records.
· Take off the price for windshield dings, paint chipped, torn upholstery, etc.
· Does the truck look too clean?* Does it look like the oil was just changed? May be hiding something
· Any extras - tool boxes, bumpers, etc.?
· Drive it - does it hesitate, stutter, or surge? Does it blow white or black smoke? When driving, brake fairly hard - note any pulls, pops, clunks, rattles, etc. How does it accelerate? You should romp on it pretty good. Drive in reverse and then back and forth - listen for clunks.
Add or subtract value based on condition, high miles, and presence of extras.
06 F250CC SB FX4 Lariat;ARP studs;OEM gaskets; Banks exhaust;DynaTrac Ball joints;Coolant filter; High-Idle;RACCCV6000;JimmiJammers;Ravelco;SynchroMax trans case;Fumoto valves;Harpooned;CPOhighwayProducts toolbox;tracrac;Fox Weatherboots;Wet Okole Seat Covers;BriteBox;Re-flashed;Quadzilla Recon XZT Fuel Press;Blue FPR spring;DashDAQ;PHP FICM;RiffRaff boots;DCPower270AXP;PowerInverter;Rancho7000's; BPD EGR cooler;One-piece HPOP fitting;BilletWaterPump;SCT w/ Matts SRL;ELC Ultra