Question for the EGR valve guru's - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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Question for the EGR valve guru's

I have already cleaned my EGR valve twice and I know it will need to be cleaned again later. The first time the truck lost ALL power and the second time it was starting to lose power so I cleaned it before it got worse. I don't want to buy a new EGR valve since it will just clog up again later. I can't block off the EGR cooler and disable the EGR valve because I can't afford any downtime with the truck. I also don't want to unplug it because the truck only boosts up to 22psi instead of it's usual 29psi with the valve unplugged. I also don't want to weld it shut because I feel that would increase my chances of cracking the EGR cooler since all the hot exhaust would be stuck in there instead of "flowing" in and out of the engine again. I know the EGR valve gives problems when it gets stuck in the open position. I want to know if the valve is ever completely closed or if it is always partially open. I was thinking about welding it shut and drilling 2 or 3 1/8" holes in it so that it doesn't get stuck open anymore and to still allow some exhaust gases to "flow " through the engine. I feel this would be a good compromise in terms of power/EGR cooler reliability/not having to clean the valve anymore/ and no downtime for a EGR cooler blockoff.

'94 F-350 CC DRW 2WD Turbo IDI 7.3
Rebuilt E4OD w/"updates" & billet Precision "RV" TC
Custom welding Bed/Lincoln Classic II
Helper Bags
3" straight pipe w/one-off 6" SS tip
K&N Air Filter
Pioneer HU/Alpine components
7 235/85-16's (spare tire holder is modded for a bigger than stock spare)
FL-1995 & new ZD9's
Next: whenever the OEM injectors go out they will get replaced with BB codes

Last edited by Texas6.0; 07-27-2008 at 04:30 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 04:21 PM
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So what's the question?

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #3 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 04:25 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, I accidentally started the new thread before finishing my post and you responded before I finished editing it. LOL

'94 F-350 CC DRW 2WD Turbo IDI 7.3
Rebuilt E4OD w/"updates" & billet Precision "RV" TC
Custom welding Bed/Lincoln Classic II
Helper Bags
3" straight pipe w/one-off 6" SS tip
K&N Air Filter
Pioneer HU/Alpine components
7 235/85-16's (spare tire holder is modded for a bigger than stock spare)
FL-1995 & new ZD9's
Next: whenever the OEM injectors go out they will get replaced with BB codes
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post #4 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 05:01 PM
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No problem, bud. That is a good question. I would think that if you lost boost when you unplugged your valve before, that you would now even with it welded shut. I'm not sure about the drilling holes part of your suggestion. It sounds like it would work, but I don't know the answer. Someone should be along shortly that knows.

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #5 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I think with it being welded shut and still plugged in that boost would stay normal since the ECU will think everything is working. I'm just wondering if the valve is ever completely closed or if it is always partially open.

'94 F-350 CC DRW 2WD Turbo IDI 7.3
Rebuilt E4OD w/"updates" & billet Precision "RV" TC
Custom welding Bed/Lincoln Classic II
Helper Bags
3" straight pipe w/one-off 6" SS tip
K&N Air Filter
Pioneer HU/Alpine components
7 235/85-16's (spare tire holder is modded for a bigger than stock spare)
FL-1995 & new ZD9's
Next: whenever the OEM injectors go out they will get replaced with BB codes
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post #6 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 05:39 PM
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I thought Adam (Abrannan19) said that the SCT tunes allow it to close to 85%, but I thought that the tunes close to 100%, effectively blocking it off. Mine is closed in my custom tunes, a sneaky pipe (with the scoop removed) and the EGR cooler blocked.

Shawn Carlson
EvilEye@powerstroke.org

Proud Navy Vet
2005 F250, CCSB, 6.0 PSD, FX4 (The Sweet Unit is white)
2008 F350, CCLB, 6.4 PSD (Brad-the wife's truck is black)




Engine Mods:
Fluidampr
CCV Reroute (Reinstated)
4" MBRP Exhaust
MTW Stage 1 Turbo
Bulletproof 53V FICM
BulletProof EGR Cooler
BulletProof Water Pump
Riff Raff Intercooler Boots
Gogo Diesel Direct Drive Solenoid
BulletProof All-Aluminum Radiator
BulletProof All-Aluminum Intercooler
BulletProof Oil Cooler System w/ Bypass Filter
SCT w/ Custom Tunes (TSD, DJ's, Innovative, Gearhead, QuickTricks)

Exterior Mods:
Bilstein 5100 Shocks
Icon Adjustable Trac Bar
Firestone RideRite Air Bags
BDS Dual Steering Stabilizer
Aluminum Finned Differential Cover
Reese 16k Manual Slider 5th Wheel Hitch
Icon 2.5" Leveling Kit w/ F-350 rear blocks
20" BMF Novakanes wrapped in 33" Nitto Terra Grapplers
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post #7 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 05:53 PM
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take the valve out and weld it shut so it doesnt open. clean it first of course then weld it. after that you need to close off where the up pipe comes into the cooler. use a freeze plug so at least you stop hot air from getting in there. you can leave the cooler in there for its "flowing" feature. basically it will keep hot air from flash boiling the coolant. its a cheap and quick way of doing it. heres a few pics of mine. still finishing it up. i gotta grab a fitting tomorow and weld that up put it all back
together. up pipe welded up.

balance ports removed (found on early build 03s)

I have no more cooler in my truck and no more egr valve. totally eliminated

-Evan

6.HO
tuned by Eric
12.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu873 View Post
Yeah, but your trucks a freak of nature...
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post #8 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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That would be the ideal thing to do. But, like I said, I can't have the truck down long enough for the freeze plug install or EGR coooler deletion. I am looking for a compromise. Which is possibly welding the EGR valve shut and drilling some small holes in it so that some exhaust will still flow through it and not stay stuck in the EGR cooler. I want to try this the next time my EGR valve needs to be cleaned but, first I need to know if the EGR valve is ever fully closed or if it is always partially open with the stock tune.

'94 F-350 CC DRW 2WD Turbo IDI 7.3
Rebuilt E4OD w/"updates" & billet Precision "RV" TC
Custom welding Bed/Lincoln Classic II
Helper Bags
3" straight pipe w/one-off 6" SS tip
K&N Air Filter
Pioneer HU/Alpine components
7 235/85-16's (spare tire holder is modded for a bigger than stock spare)
FL-1995 & new ZD9's
Next: whenever the OEM injectors go out they will get replaced with BB codes
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post #9 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 07:04 PM
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your down time what we long. its a day of your time. you just need to block off the up pipe so that hot gas doenst get in there. and drill a hole? what are you talking about? lol

-Evan

6.HO
tuned by Eric
12.3

Quote:
Originally Posted by shu873 View Post
Yeah, but your trucks a freak of nature...
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post #10 of 12 Old 07-27-2008, 08:42 PM
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I just got done with an EGR modification yesterday on my 06 6.0. If you buy a sneaky pipe (an up pipe from a 03 or 04 6.0) and a slug on ebay ( eBay Motors: Ford 6.0 Diesel EGR Eliminator - Spool W/clamps - bolts (item 280250246644 end time Aug-02-08 11:13:32 PDT) ) you should be set up pretty good. I would keep the old EGR valve in the system. Find a good place to mount it. Good luck. I tore my truck apart and welded a plug in both ends of the EGR cooler. I cleaned the EGR sensor and reinstalled it. The truck EGT was about 100 degrees cooler than before on the way home last night.
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