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  #11  
Old 05-09-2013, 05:57 PM
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The new to me 2003 CAC cleaned up nicely with a pressure washer followed up with some 00 steel wool and carb cleaner.

That eBay auction was just too good to not post a link. Mechanic John must have done some market research to pin point what it takes to get his prime demographic to click the listing.
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2013, 11:47 AM
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Morning commute yielded the same 26v reading, I know there are some spendy and nice options out there, but they aren't in the budget.. And I can't afford the downtime, yes I know not fixing it could lead to a lot more downtime. I called the local wrecking yards hoping to find one that could be used or at least useful for a core to have rebuilt, no dice.

Started digging on the internet and apparently replacment stock voltage power supplies can be purchased for less than $150 (internet) or $250 locally. (but not from Ford)

4C3Z 12B599 BARM
4-pin (half shell) $556 exchange -- in stock
7-pin (replace assembly) $725 exchange
International: 4307223R91 (only available from Ford according to the Parts guy at Nelson International here in Fargo)

I searched on here and googled this, I haven't found a good or bad posting about its quality or life expectancy..
Dorman Products - 904-229
$150 (free shipping)
Or
O'Reilly's locally has them and according to my salesman, Dorman offers them with a lifetime warranty for $258.98
or from rockauto.com
Quote:
Circuit board only. Not entire control module.
Affordability, convenience, and optimal performance--Dorman's Fuel Injection Control Module offers all this and more. Now you can restore proper fuel deliver to the engine by replacing only the failed board, instead of the entire Module. Plus, our high-quality staking material ensures long-lasting durability against vibration.
Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4C3Z12B599AARM, 4C3Z12B599ABRM, 4C3Z12B599BARM

DORMAN Warranty Information
Limited lifetime. Manifold with Catalytic Converter 5 years/50,000 miles. Mirror glass 12 months.
Napa Fuel Injector Conrol Module (I also gave them the Ford number to cross reference)
Part Number: 600-5566 $251.10

Called International, gave them the International part number and they said they couldn't even order the part for me and that it was 'Ford Only'. I tried to get him to cross reference it with a vehicle of the same vintage with a VT 365, no dice, he said I needed an Engine serial number.


I'd like to upgrade to a 53v or 58v, but it isn't in the cards at this point in time.

Well, hi ho, I'm off to get a thermostat
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  #13  
Old 05-16-2013, 07:29 AM
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Got lazy and didn't order the Dorman FICM PS until last evening so I haven't fixed that yet.. I did install a Thermostat (Napa Lifetime Warranty).. The Motocraft ones were the same prices but only a 1 yr warranty? FWIW, I did drain the coolant into a clean container and then reused it.

While I was in there, I also installed the new (to me) 2003 CAC, my original plastic one has oil literally running down it as I pulled it out.. both the intercooler and intake pipe connections needed to be cleaned before re-assembly.

Started by pulling the Air Cleaner Assembly and the original CAC, set the plastic CAC by the aluminum one..


Oil pooled inside the intake inlet tube, it looked like this inside the plastic CAC and the intercooler connection, but since they are all black plastic, they don't photograph very well.. but still

Damned CCV, it's on my short list of things to remedy, I'll build a catch can and keep a closed system.


Once you get the Air Filter Assembly and CAC out, the coolant drained, and upper radiator hose removed its like an open book, easy to change..


Old Thermostat vs new thermostat.


Reverse removal steps and pretty soon you look like this..



In the attached images I've put the ECT temp chart, looks good now, from 66f starting, it took 12 minutes to get up to 186 and then it climbed to 192f and just sat there the rest of the trip. Also attached is a graph showing the difference between EOT/ECT. This chart only shows EOT-ECT, not ECT-EOT, for a while when it was warming up, the ECT was higher than the EOT, but all conversations I've read about the EOT/ECT delta are worried about the EOT being significantly higher than the ECT, so I left that off.

One other graph, just sort of interesting is the 0MPH VGT%.. Since my pickup has a newer ECM strategy on it, the VGT vanes will cycle (sweep) through a large range of motion while the engine is idling, I found it interesting to see it on a graph, but in person if you are standing by my pickup you can hear the exhaust note change when it does this.

I did notice something weird, that I had seen before but considered a fluke. When holding the pedal to the floor to generate full boost (I had to test that the new CAC boots were going to stay in place, didn't I?) the TorqueApp (Android) display and logging both record that I go from 22lbs of boost to a vacuum situation. I am still at WOT and accelerating so there is no way that there is a vacuum, but I need to figure out if this is a flaw with TorqueApp or if a sensor or switch is going out of range. The turbo gauge on the dash continues to display high boost during this issue. I've attached a compete chart of my morning drive and you will see that it did this a few times. I took the data from the first incident and overlayed MPH so you can see that I am still accelerating when this happens. The MPH/boost sample is from a dead stop up to 80MPH as I merged with the interstate
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Morning Commute By the Number-5_16_2013_am_ect_fixed.jpg   Morning Commute By the Number-5_16_2013_am_eot_ect_difference.jpg   Morning Commute By the Number-0mpg_vgt.jpg   Morning Commute By the Number-5_16_2013_am_boost.jpg   Morning Commute By the Number-5_16_2013_am_boost_mph_acceleration.jpg  

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  #14  
Old 05-16-2013, 11:50 AM
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Check out ficmrepair.com and talk to Ed he will hook you up with a rebuilt ficm.
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  #15  
Old 05-16-2013, 01:02 PM
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For now I am going to just fix my existing FICM by replacing the PS. Then I will acquire another FICM. And when either my current FICM or the replacement FICM needs repair I'll send it out.

I'm pretty self sufficient with working on stuff, and his repair cost vs the Dorman (FICMRepair.com is $195+shipping and downtime for 45 day warranty compared to $150/lifetime part plus my labor) This time I'll risk the DIY method. This is in no way, shape, or form anything against Ed's work, I hear great things about his work. Its more about being self sufficient to me.

For now the truck is running fine so, while I know it is not the best option, I will continue to drive it until I get the power supply replaced. I can't afford the downtime right now from sending out the FICM, I know that not getting it fixed can cause additional problems, its a risk I am willing to take.

I haven't decided on FICM or ECM tune, right now I'm leaning a bit toward a PHP Gryphon tuner so I can flash my ECM back to an older non-inferred strategy and try both the Atlas 40 and 80.. I only do light/mild towing, less than 4000lbs (pontoon) but it pulls harder than the 8000lb tractor I pulled last year. So I'd like to try both 40 and 80. Only the 40 for now until I get a pyrometer for measuring EGT, then the 80. But the problem is that I'd also like to try a non-inductive tune from somebody like Innovative Diesel. (All PHP tunes are inductive).
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