Welding the EGR valve shut - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:35 PM
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Welding the EGR valve shut

Alright guys, I know unplugging the EGR valve when it is in the closed position will stop hot exhaust gases from going back into the intake. Driving with an unplugged EGR valve results in less max boost aswell. I have heard of some guys running a second EGR valve as a dummy valve to bring the boost back up to normal. I have also heard of some disabled EGR valves being forced open under high boost situations and being welded shut to solve this.

What I want to know is where am I supposed to weld? How do I know if the valve is in the closed position by looking at it? And will my peak boost go back up to normal with a PLUGGED IN welded-shut EGR valve?


Last edited by Texas6.0; 02-25-2008 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:42 PM
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You don't actually weld the EGR valve shut, you weld a freeze plug in to the passenger side up pipe where the hot gas would enter the EGR cooler.
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Old 02-25-2008, 07:47 PM
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Ok, thanks. I thought I remembered reading something about somebody welding their valve shut during one of my searches.
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Old 02-26-2008, 03:29 AM
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People have welded them shut but only weak valves that needed replaced anyway.
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Old 02-26-2008, 04:43 AM
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Just get an SCT and have them turn it off in your tunes!
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Old 02-26-2008, 06:23 PM
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CHECK THIS OUT..eBay Motors: Ford 6.0 Diesel EGR Eliminator - Spool W/clamps - bolts (item 280203801812 end time Mar-02-08 15:30:14 PST).
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 720Deere View Post
People have welded them shut but only weak valves that needed replaced anyway.
I thought I remembered reading something like that. Does anybody know where to weld? How to tell if it is in the closed position by looking at it? And if peak boost will be normal if a welded shut EGR valve is plugged in?
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Old 02-28-2008, 09:32 AM
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Anyone.....?????
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Old 02-28-2008, 10:17 AM
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Old 02-28-2008, 02:16 PM
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What he is saying is this:

Take the passanger side up-pipe off. There is a section about 2/3 of the way up that sticks forward to carry the exhaust to the EGR system. It has a V-band clamp on it. So take the upper and lower Up-Pipe flanges apart, take the EGR snout V-Band Clamp off, and remove this up-pipe.

Now, that EGR snout, it has a hole where the gasses pass by. I think the plate diameter size you need to make is 1.8" or close to this. Use around 0.100" wall thickness, or by our EGT Blocker Plate. You really dont need to weld it in, but if you want to.... weld this plate in and grind the welds smooth. Reassemble as if you were never there, but for God's sake.... use high temp anti-seize on the up-pipe flange bolts! Those things get down right nasty with heat galling.

Getting the upper and lower flange bolts off can be BY FAR the hardest part of this job. If you have limited tool selection... your in for a real treat. You may strip the head off of one or more bolts, you may bust a bolt or 2, or you may crack the flange. So leave time in your schedule to order a new up-pipe and have a spare car/truck on stand-by in case things go bad on you in your driveway!
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