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Serpentine belt removal

5K views 44 replies 11 participants last post by  rdezs 
#1 ·
Just trying to get an idea of how long it take to get it off. I've got a noisy pulley somewhere sounds like a bird stuck in there
 
#2 ·
Before you start changing anything, spray some soapy water on the belt as it is running. If the chirping stops it is your belt and not your pulleys. I was under the impression it was my pulley and after reading on here (sorry I don't remember who to give props to) to do the soapy water procedure, it saved me the cost of changing the pulleys. It took me about 15 min. to take off and about an hour to put back on. Very limited space. There also is thread on the locking mechanism on your tensioner pulley which helps take the tesion off the belt to remove it.
 
#4 ·
Yep, if you need to replace the belt, use the tensioner lock. The first pic is what the tensioner looks like (I've got dual alternator, but the tensioner a look the same). In the second pic, marked in yellow is the lock.






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#5 ·
Ok thank you I tried the soap and water and it stopped. Looks like I have another project!
 
#7 ·
After you have forced the spring loaded tensioner back, just push the lock into position.

Some members pull on the belt from the top to get the tensioner to the back position and reach down to get the lock. I get under the truck and use a 1/2" drive ratchet in the 1/2" square tensioner hole, while I have the tensioner in the back position, I use my other hand to push the lock into position.


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#8 ·
It's spring loaded, as you use a flex handle in the square whole to move the belt tensioner past this lock it will pop into position so it will keep the tension off the belt.


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#9 ·
It is hard to do by yourself. If you pull on the passenger side of the belt just under the alternator, have someone engage the lock on the tensioner. When I did it by myself I hooked a ratchet strap to the belt and ran it over the fender and under the fender well to the coil spring. Make sure you use a towel where the strap touches the fender to keep from scuffing it. I had to tighten just enough where i could put pressure on the belt with my hand and engage the lock and let the tension off from my hand so the lock would stay engaged.
 
#25 ·
You have to be kidding right?? :doh: There is no way I would run a ratchet strap up and over my fender just for a simple belt change.

I take a 1/2" drive ratchet with a 3" extension and a cheater pipe over the handle and turn it clockwise (this is all from up top). Then I reach down and lock the tensioner lock and release the ratchet. Done in 30 seconds.

Yep, if you need to replace the belt, use the tensioner lock. The first pic is what the tensioner looks like (I've got dual alternator, but the tensioner a look the same). In the second pic, marked in yellow is the lock.






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Hey Rich you have a 2003 right?? Matt's truck that is sitting in my driveway right now torn apart is a early 2003 and it doesn't have the tensioner lock on it. :dunno:

So what is the recommended batteries? Motorcraft lol!!
I have Napa Gold Legend batteries. They are labeled Napa but are manufactured by East Penn Manufacturing under the DEKA brand, 880 CCA and 1040 CA (CCA are under 30º ambient temps and CA are over 30º ambient temps).

Oh yeah, one more thing if you choose to remove the stator like, Rich, Dale Rsdez and I all have MAKE SURE you tie the fan clutch harness up VERY GOOD out of the way of the fan. I did (or so I thought) and the zip ties let loose and ripped it apart so I ended up having to hard wire it in.

Here are some pics of how I did mine AFTER they got eaten by my fan. Om Nom Nom Nom. LMAO.









Working.

 
#10 ·
Lipooh you beat me to it and with a better explanation. LOL


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#13 ·
So I finnally got to this and the alternator seems to be making some noise. Should I get a new one or could it be the pulley?
 
#14 ·
If you leave the fan stator off..... the big plastic thing that attaches to the engine....future belt changes take about 5 minutes max.
 
#15 ·
Thanks ^^. I'm just tryin to figure out if I need a new alternator now it's puttin out 12.23v.
 
#16 ·
12.23 volts......I'd get the batteries tested as well. Could be just a bad battery and not the alternator. Several places will do a quick charging system check on the vehicle for free. Definitely low on the voltage there.
 
#18 ·
Yeah I will have too what would be the normal for the alternator and batteries?
 
#17 ·
When you take the stator off, it leaves you a lot of room for future maintenance or repair....and saves an amazing amount of time. Here's what you have when you leave it off. Note you will need to reroute the fan harness, pretty simple. That top piece on top of the shroud snaps off, you can cut a hole just big enough for the plug, route through the back side of it, secure with wire tied under the snapped on piece. If you ever need to replace the belt, water pump, a pulley or tensioner,or the lower radiator hose.....those items will take mere minutes with the stator gone.

 
#19 ·
Easy way to change belt is to put one knee on top of alternator and one on top of rad and grab belt with right hand and pull up and off of alternator. Do the same to put it on OOORAHH!!:icon_ford:
 
#21 ·
I'm thinking you bench press several hundred pounds.....:thumb:
 
#22 ·
So what is the recommended batteries? Motorcraft lol!!
 
#23 ·
Odyssey batteries are THE best. Our military uses them and your military uses them for a reason.


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#26 ·
So I just checked the batteries after sitting overnight both are at 12.23
 
#28 ·
Yeah I'm defiantly thinking about napa gold that's what's in there now or dura last gold they are a few bucks cheaper. And I also need an alternator..
 
#31 ·
Oh ok so to get an accurate reading they need to be separate. Gonna try it I think this I gettin expensive lol
 
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