Did my first longish trip today since installing my Banks IQ to monitor everything. Matt's SRL is SICK btw, and my exhaust has a very nice note to it now under hard throttle since I deleted the cat.
However, ECT settled at 188* (brand new Motorcraft Thermostat), but EOT settled at 205*.
Dangit.
How worried should I be right now? I have so many questions. The local shop will do studs, EGR delete, standpipes, intake gaskets, clean the intake manifold, OEM gaskets, install new injectors that I bring, OEM oil cooler, and flush the cooling system before it all for $4000 with me providing the coolant, oil, and injectors. $2000 is labor, I don't think I can get the parts for much less and if I get them through them they have an unlimited 1 year warranty so ill probably just do that. Thoughts?
As for the injectors, I can get the best deal by calling Jesse Warren right? Is their a benefit to going with 155/stock injectors?
Ill put my .02 in on the oil cooler. If you can, save the cash and go with the Bullet Proof Diesel set up. If you go this route you will never need to do it again. The OEM set up is and has been proven a failure. You will be back in their again if you have the truck long enough. As far as paying someone else to do this, if you have ANY kind of mechanical ability you can do this yourself. There is guys all over this site just waiting to help.
Also I think I can get all needed parts for around $1350 for the ones that the shop was going to provide, bigger difference than I thought. Think $650 for warranty on the parts is worth it?
That really sucks. I guess I'm extremely lucky. I'm replacing my original oil cooler with a new OEM oil cooler just because I've got her apart for studs. My deltas were/are fine (changed to cat elc last year and added a filter) with 98k on the clock. Figured it was cheap insurance.
Well with a good chemical flush, a coolant filter, and new CAT ELC shouldn't an OEM cooler last a good while? I just can't bring myself to spend $1900 on an oil cooler. Not right now.
Honestly, I wouldn't do the chemical flush, that was where I screwed up. I loosened up the crap in the cooling system and it plugged my cooler AND radiator. I should have gone with the BPD cooler the first time, and I still kick myself. But that's changing...soon
Ya know...I bet me and a buddy could do the flush/EGR delete/oil cooler in his shop and it not take more than a couple long nights...we've done a few IFS lift kits, fuel pumps, etc there...
If all I'm running is Matt's SRL, and I'm catching all this before the EGR or oil cooler ruptures, then think I'd be ok with the stock bolts for another few years? It isn't going to tow much at all, and no racing ha. Just contemplating it.
I'm making an excel spreadsheet of all the parts for the whole shebang and the price total plus the labor just is well, bad...
Not sure if I could tackle injectors myself though...and it's going to need them before long I'm sure.
Yeah what I would do is the chemical flush and then drive a few hundred miles before we tore into it. Go ahead and clog up the one that's in there real good ha.
My parts total with 155/stock warren injectors is right around $2600 + the $2000 labor for it all. I could possibly do the EGR delete, oil cooler replacement, and various updated parts for right at $1000 in parts if I do it at a buddies shop, bits that's no studs and no new injectors.
If I'm gonna be studded soon I may just keep my PHP FICM tuner that is going to be hear Monday so I can run around on Atlas 80 and tune it down if I ever need to tow...was thinking about it, should my FICM fail in the future I'd have to pay another $150 to get it tuned...
Yep, the plan is to try to get my pre-work flush done this weekend. Gonna use Restore but not Restore+, then drive it an easy 200 or so miles Monday and Tuesday night, then drop it off to go under the knife after changing the coolant filter.
Just ordered an International Oil Cooler, IPR Screen Kit, and HPOP Screen off eBay, stand pipes, dummy plugs, STC fitting update, turbo drain & feed tubes, and intake gaskets from Tousley.
Made an offer on a RCD EGR Delete too.
Gonna get Napa to order me 8 gallons of Zerex ZXED1 ELC, and use 3.5 at the end of my flush, and give 3.5 to the shop to use when they are done, and have two 50/50 gallons left over when all is done.
Also going to call Jesse Warren tomorrow and see what the best he can do me on some 155/stock injectors.
^ don't forget a new t stat....take ur old one off before u flush...place cardboard in front to block air hitting the rad to get it up to temp...the restore cannot be in ur engine more then 3hours...but u have to get it up to 190degrees for it to work
It will come down when I stop a a degree or two. Doing 65 on level ground I'm seeing EOT of 206-207.
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