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Egr Delete Question

4K views 33 replies 11 participants last post by  rdezs 
#1 ·
Here's my question. Truck still has the egr on it. If I am running an sct tuner with a custom tune from ID, which is suppose to close the egr, is there any benefit in actually doing the delete? If so, why?


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#3 ·
Is this a fact or a theory? I was under the impression that under most circumstances the valve would remain closed and exhaust would NOT flow through the EGR cooler. However with enough pressure the EGR valve could in theory be pushed open allowing some gas through the cooler.


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#6 ·
Right but with the valve closed the gas isn't actually flowing. It's just filling the cooler. I hadn't heard an actual number for the pressure needed to force the EGR valve open so was under the impression that it was just a theory that at some point there would be enough pressure to open the valve and flow exhaust gas into the intake.

Will a tuned stock motor hit 30+ psi of boost? Untuned I can hit 27-28 but that's only for a split second then it settles to 24ish. If a tuned 6.0 will boost the same way (and get to the mid 30's) then only small amount of gas will get past the valve before the boost falls back down and the valve closes back up if the boost gets that high.

I'm interested now because I'm thinking down the road about tuning it closed but if I end up with a turbo and have sustained boost in the mid 30's this may come into play.


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#5 ·
While a tuner will keep the EGR valve closed there is still a degree of exhaust flow in and out of the cooler just from the pressure changes in the exhaust system and if the EGR valve has even a little crud on it there will be some exhaust flow through it, plus boost around the low to mid thirties can start to force it open which is why most guys do a full delete.
 
#7 ·
I would still do it for a couple reasons. First since you have an 05 you have the scoop in the up-pipe to direct flow into the EGR. When I deleted mine I replaced the up-pipe to a solid one without the scoop and my turbo has been doing nothing but thanking me since. I noticed a significant improvement with the new up-pipe, turbo spools quicker and because of that saw a power increase. My truck would smoke a good bit when I got on it until the turbo spooled up, with the new up pipe I barely get a haze now. It was worth it just for that in my opinion.
Second, you are still getting hot gasses in the EGR even with the valve closed. I believe I cracked my EGR with some high exhaust temps even with it being turned off on my SRL tune. Yes my oil cooler was good (5-8 deltas). With it being gone there is no possibility of that happening now.

Hope that helps.
 
#9 ·
I know this may sound like a stupid question. But are we talking about the uppipe from the exhaust? If you buy a turbo back exhaust sytem it will include an uppipe correct? Or is there another pipe?
Also what is a total cost for a tuner to turn off check engine light and to have the EGR deleted? I am buying an 2006 6.0 and want to do exhaust and EGR work right away.
 
#10 ·
I know this may sound like a stupid question. But are we talking about the uppipe from the exhaust? If you buy a turbo back exhaust sytem it will include an uppipe correct?
Nope. Different pipe.
Also what is a total cost for a tuner to turn off check engine light and to have the EGR deleted? I am buying an 2006 6.0 and want to do exhaust and EGR work right away.
Keep an eye open around here and you could pick up the tuner for around $300 used. Just do your homework before buying.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/ge...603-what-look-when-buying-used-sct-6-0-a.html
 
#12 ·
I guess I had a hole in my EGR cooler that I didnt know I had before until the EGR valve was programmed shut and I was on it more because of the tuning. Made the hole a whole lot bigger with all that trapped exhaust pressure and heat.
 
#13 ·
I've seen some guys tac weld the valve shut and I've seen some guys buy a machined aluminum plug on eBay to put in place of the EGR valve. Keep in mind some flash versions do not allow the fan clutch to reach max lockup if the EGR valve is electrically disconnected.
 
#22 ·
Glad you brought this up. Not sure the relation but around the same time as I did my egr delete I noticed my fan would turn on sooner while towing. I have an egr delete and the valve block off plate. Under someones recomendation I tried experimenting with connecting an egr valve and just leaving it sitting in the engine bay to see if anything would change. Honestly didn't notice much. I'll have to try again when I'm using the truck more and the weather is warmer out.
 
#19 ·
#20 ·
So it looks like the general consensus is to do a full delete with up pipe? Are there any long term cons to doing the full delete?
 
#23 ·
What about cons for doing a BulletProof EGR Cooler?
 
#24 ·
Price, vs doing a regular egr delete
 
#26 ·
From the prices ive seen, the bp cooler and delete with up pipe are very close to same price
 
#28 ·
An additional 15 or 20 minutes to remove, clean, inspect and reinstall the EGR valve once a year could be another con. ;)
 
#29 ·
I also have a 2006, and went for the SCT just to turn off the CEL on the dash, should it appear. Found one on EBay from a dealer, new with tunes for around $315.00

Do the full delete for the reasons mentioned. (Eliminate scoop in up pipe, faster turbo spool, and extra mpg) Also, if you leave the egr cooler in place, not only will it still have some amount of exhaust and pressure in it, you're just asking for it to eventually develop a leak.....and then you get more severe issues. If you are in an EPA mandated inspection area, you'll have to go with a better built egr cooler, such as the BFD one.

One thing on the SCT.....I wanted to leave my engine stock for longevity issues, and not having studs installed. There is no option to 'only' turn off the egr. You have to do so inside one of the tunes. The only way to do this and keep the engine power otherwise stock, is to select the 'trans only' tune....it includes the option for the 'no egr' ....and leaves everything else with the engine stock. The 'trans only' tune just adds a bit of line pressure and improves shifting all around.

Be forewarned, as you start the project, you run across all sorts of stuff you'll want to do while you're in there. Look down at my signature line...90% was done during the egr delete.
 
#30 · (Edited)
Do the Delete. Eliminate and Forget about it. The only con is if you don't have a programmer that disables the EGR in the ECM. Also, if your downpipe is permamently attached to the rest of the exhaust that goes all the way to the back, its a REAL Pain in the *** to get that up pipe in there. Your best bet is to take out the passenger wheel well liner, and loosen the drivers side of the y - pipe to get the new up pipe to fit in. Leave everything loose when you put the turbo back in or your flanges wont line up easily. Do the turbo to y-pipe vband up before you do any other bolts tight, including the turbo mounting bolts. Trust me, I added another hour to my install time by trying to cut corners.
 
#31 ·
I left my exhaust down pipe in place during my egr delete, and had no problem. Removed the 2 bolts on each end of the manifold secured to the up pipes, removed turbo, pulled entire Y pipe out with the factory passenger side up pipe attached. Installed the new non-egr up pipe onto the Y-pipe with new gasket, slid whole thing down back into place. Loosely attached bolts at manifold ends....mounted turbo, tightened y-pipe v-clamps to turbo, then tightened the up pipe-to-manifold bolts that were left loose. Never removed fender well.
 
#32 ·
I couldn't get my ypipe out because my downpipe was in the way and the weight and position of it was trouble some. I wedged a 2x4 between the bellhousing and dp. I took the well liner out and just reached in and pulled the up pipe out and put the new one in. It would be easier to pull the up pipes out the top and do it that way if your dp wasn't so big and in the way. I know the heat sheild back there gets in the way sometimes when pulling the ypipe out in addition to the dp.

I donno just my experience. People will find their own ways to work it out.
 
#34 ·
Almost forgot....I reached back there to take the couple bolts out of the heat shield. Allows a lot more room, folding the heat shield forward. A couple 10 mm headed bolts, a ratcheting 10mm box end was my friend. (An air ratchet would be even better, didn't want to use it though.) The bolts in question bolt into the hpop cover on the back side if I recall correctly. The whole assembly....y-pipe with the passenger side up pipe...came out easily as one unit.
 
#33 · (Edited)
BPD webite shows egr coolers priced at $350, round style $450. XDP has egr delete kits with an up pipe priced at $209
 
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