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Cold start synthetic oil

7K views 30 replies 10 participants last post by  rdezs 
#1 ·
Gentlemen, Got an 05 dually with 78,000 miles bulletproofed a year ago, and it seems to be harder and harder to start as the temps went down. Running standard 15/40 rotella in it . Will changing to a synthetic oil help in these colder times. I'm in central Ohio and we go from 10 degree mornings to 30 degree mornings and starting is rough. Batteries are brand new and don't seem to help ...starting is long and hard even at 32 degrees. Should I also think about an additive for both fuel and oil for easier starts. Your thoughts please. Thanks POOP
 
#3 ·
Starting is long and hard....describe better. As in 5 seconds? 10 seconds? 20 seconds? It should start up in about 2 seconds, even with 15w40, although 5w40 synthetic makes your injectors happier. It's a sign of something else developing most likely....check the FICM as stated above, as you don't want to ruin your injectors by running it too long if that's the case.
 
#13 ·
If it's 5-10 seconds at 40 degrees+ what could be the problem? I run 15w40 AMSOIL and Deisel Kleen every fill up. FICM voltage never drops below 48. Battery voltage on start up drops to 11-11.5 then hops back up to 12.5+ Truck just rolled over 30K miles. Let me know what you think.
 
#4 ·
I agree we need more information on what you call a long start. That aside you should be running a synthetic 5w40 oil all the time. The Rotella T6 from Wally World is usually the cheapest way to go there and the T^ has shown excellent Used Oil Analysis Reports in our trucks.

I also agree with checking the FICM. Should never drop below 46.5v.
 
#5 ·
My truck starts better unplugged than it does plugged in in rreally cold temps. Ive fired my truck up with the oil temp in the teens at the end of the day and it jumps right to life faster than it does when plugged in and oil temps in the 90's. I dont even think my flywheel makes a full revolution on cold starts 95% of the time.

Rotella T6 here. After 3-4k miles of use on very cold starts will haze a little blue smoke. Usually tells me time to change the oil:)

Check to make sure the FICM is good and all 8 glow plugs are actually working. Any smoking after its running?

Jason
 
#8 ·
My truck starts better unplugged than it does plugged in in rreally cold temps. Ive fired my truck up with the oil temp in the teens at the end of the day and it jumps right to life faster than it does when plugged in and oil temps in the 90's. I dont even think my flywheel makes a full revolution on cold starts 95% of the time.

Jason
If it starts up easier cold, than with warm oil......that is an early sign of either a HPOP issue, or an o-ring in the HP oil rail leaking. Cold, thick oil will allow it to overcome the small leak quickly. Warm, thin oil takes a bit longer. Eventually it grows to a problem where it will start cold, but not warm....until you let it sit 30 minutes or more.

early diagnosis of such things saves major headaches down the road....
 
#6 ·
^^^^ really!?!? Yesterday I fired the Ex up at -20*F unplugged (the dogs pulled the plug on me) she whined, cried, squeaked, sputtered, coughed and complained for about 30 seconds after a 3 second crank. Pugged in with the temps at 90* she doesn't complain at all and purrs after about a second and a half cranking. As for the blue smoke I see a small puff when I start her up cold not matter how many miles are on the oil but I've got a slight case of stiction.


Sent from north of the border...
 
#9 ·
That's what I was thinking.....


Sent from north of the border...
 
#10 ·
hot starts are still fine.

I think "easier" is a relative term. Fires instantly when cold and has never ever taken more than 2 seconds of cranking to actually start, ever hot or cold. If it did i would have it looked into.

Was simply stating that when everything is working even the warm blooded 6.0 will still start just fine in the cold.

Jason
 
#11 ·
In good condition, yes, it should start easily. It may object for a couple minutes when started in e,treme cold......but should mellow out pretty quick.
 
#15 ·
Note: Just re-read your post......after starting, your battery voltage should increase to 14.2 volts within a minute or so. If you only see 12.5 volts with the engine running....yes, you probably have a bad battery or two. Get the alternator checked as well as mentioned above.
 
#17 ·
I'll take a look at my voltages again with my programmer when I go to work in the am. I'll let you know.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Those filters look real bad, like there's engine oil in the fuel! Your recent changes don't look like that, right?

Well, if you're only getting 12.5 volts engine running, you have a battery, alternator, or both problems. It's normal for it to take a minute or so, and some rpm, to get up to 14.2 volts after starting.

HPOP this soon? Anything is possible. I wouldn't ever expect to see filters that dirty, except if they were maybe ran for 70,000 miles...... By the way, my VW diesel, I have a vacuum gauge inline with the fuel line between the filter and the injection pump. Lets me know when the filter is getting restricted. Last one went 15,000 miles so I got nervous and changed it, opened up the old one. Still clean inside, looked like new. The point is....your fuel filter picture illustrates a problem. Just not sure what it is yet. Algae in the fuel tank? Motor oil? But if your current filters look good, wouldn't worry about it.
 
#19 ·
Battery voltage on crank, 11.85. Running, highest I saw was 13.87. I'm going to mess with the HPOP this weekend when I install my coolant filter kit. I was going to run this test, http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-...87393-diagnosing-6-0l-high-pressure-pump.html

No they don't look like that anymore. My buddy's and I were leaning towards algae in the tank. It's an 06 with only 23K on it. I bought it at an insurance auction as a theft recovery. So I'm sure it has sat for a while. But like I said, I run fuel cleaner every fill up and only get fuel from places that go through it quick .
 
#21 ·
Your SCT was that far off? Not good. You need a minimum of 500 psi to start. If you're only getting 500 cranking, I'd look into that. You should get well over 500 psi cranking. (I get around 720 with my new hpop.) Did you check the screen on the IPR? Maybe someone will chime in on bench testing it.
 
#22 ·
Haven't been back there yet. I used a hyd fitting and made a hose and put a hyd pressure gauge on it to get my reading (0-5000psi snap-on gauge). Took out my IPR sensor and put my test tool in. 500-about 550psi cranking, any where from 550-650psi idle. You say you're brand new one is 720psi? Is that cranking and idle? and how did you test it? Just reading a scan tool or do you have an in-line gauge?
 
#23 ·
More info to consider

I am having very similar situations.
Mine is cranking longer than normal but only in a certain outside temp range.
Between 30*and 50* and when it has sat over night. Below that it fine as well as above that. Once its warm it's back to normal. Been doing it for 3-4 years now.
This winter is the first year I've had an "Insight" installed. Everything checks out. With the exception of the fuel pressure. I turn the key on and give it time to boot up the Insight and fuel pressure is at 56psi.. As soon as I twist the key to start cranking the pressure falls to 0 until it pops back up and starts.
I lost the fuel pump and replaced it last summer and still the same. I had the EGR, oil cooler and HPOP fitting replaced the summer before that. The problem existed before and after that too.
That fuel pressure dropping seems like it may be good info to someone who knows more.
 
#24 ·
^thats normal for the fuel system to go up to proper pressure and then back down to 0... Then once you crank the engine, the pressure comes back up. Mine does the same thing.
 
#26 ·
With a mechanical gauge installed on the fuel bowl test port, you'll be able to see what the pressure does while starting. (Mine stays around 62-65 psi.) On an electric gauge, or with a monitor.....the power is probably cut off to it during the starting cycle so you really can't monitor starting pressures. I would verify fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge before I check anything else. 56 psi is acceptable and normal, and I'll bet a mechanical gauge will show it stays right around there while starting.
The starting issue between 30 and 50 degree's makes me immediately think of the glow plug circuit. I'd verify they are working at a cold start when it is in that temp range after sitting all night. One of those ammeters that you place over the wire you want to check should be adequate to verify current is flowing. Just have someone turn the key on when you are ready. I can't think of anything else off the top of my head on that one.....this is one of those times a unit like what AutoEnginuity sells would come in very handy.
 
#28 ·
I've been checking the fuel pressure using the "Insight". It's not losing power to the Insight itself. I can watch it drop and then come back up.
The glow plugs were checked when I had the other work done. Amps were right in line. When it does the extra cranks, and when it kicks in, it's kind of an aggressive start. Sort of like the ECM is throttling up to make up for no fuel.
Is there a requlator / sensor that could be hanging up?
 
#29 ·
The insight doesn't loose power and the pressure will drop if you let it sit long enough before starting. I'm not sure how long it takes before it drops but my WTS light is out long before it does.

When I get into the truck I touch the CTS screen to start it booting up before I turn the key, that way I see my volts, temps and pressure before I start the truck and my fuel psi doesn't drop before I crank.
 
#30 ·
I think my fuel pressure holds tight until I start cranking. Its been warming up some so the delay hasn't been happening. I will try to see again what mine does.
If the fuel pressure is holding tight I don't think mine is a o-ring /fuel rail issue.
 
#31 ·
The fuel pressure should go back to zero only if you turn the key on, and don't start the engine......about 30 seconds later the system will release the pressure. (Maybe a safety thing originally on the gassers?) I did verify with mechanical gauge in the test port, that while the wife cranks the engine to start, it holds steady at 62-64 psi fuel pressure.

If you're losing fuel pressure during starting.....when it's definitely needed....I'd start looking there for the issue.
 
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