Need help with cold start, just switched to Synthetic - Page 2 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-21-2013, 07:30 AM
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Diesel Kleen at Canadian Tire. $10.49 a bottle. Diesel Kleen with Cetane Boost | Canadian Tire

You could also just use the Motomaster 3 in 1 diesel conditioner.

15w40 dino is just too thick for Canada, even on a warm winter's day, 5w40 all year long. Unfortunately, the oil change has nothing to do with your start issue. The filter might though, drain back due to size issues.

The anti-gel is not much help if you use the winter blend fuel. If I had a bulk tank with some summer diesel, I would use it, but the other conditioners already have some additives will assist if gelling was a problem. I live in Manitoba, if gelling was a big issue with fuel in Canada, I would have the problem.

There is no need to fill the bowl manually. as previously stated, the upper filter bowl has a bleed vent. If it hasn't been damaged or plugged (don't know how that would happen with a good main filter) just a few cycles will easily fill the upper filter housing and remove air. If you are using Racor, Ford, Fram, or Sure filters, they will all work well and only go in one way.

Even though your initial description sounds like stiction, it could be something else, like your FICM. It might be coincidence that it started to act up at the same time as your oil and filter changes. As Southend would say, "get a monitor on it!" Let's find out what is causing your start issue.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04cr450 View Post
I always leave the top filter cap off and watch the fuel bowl fill up with fuel- no air bubbles and then i put the cap back on.. No issues with running... Yes like southend said, the lower could not be seated as well... Did u lube the cap o-rings up with motor oil etc?
Lubed them with diesel fuel. It said to do so with either or.
I did go back out and start it for a drive after it sat for 2 hours this morning and it fired up and ran smooth as could be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZMANN View Post
I assumed you were using Archoil 9000 oil additive?


the diesel kleen is in the fuel and helps with cold temp issues

I haven't added it yet. I wanted to do it in stages so I could see any positive effects from the synthetic oil first, then the archoil additive.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by twoicebergs View Post
Diesel Kleen at Canadian Tire. $10.49 a bottle. Diesel Kleen with Cetane Boost | Canadian Tire

You could also just use the Motomaster 3 in 1 diesel conditioner.

15w40 dino is just too thick for Canada, even on a warm winter's day, 5w40 all year long. Unfortunately, the oil change has nothing to do with your start issue. The filter might though, drain back due to size issues.

The anti-gel is not much help if you use the winter blend fuel. If I had a bulk tank with some summer diesel, I would use it, but the other conditioners already have some additives will assist if gelling was a problem. I live in Manitoba, if gelling was a big issue with fuel in Canada, I would have the problem.

There is no need to fill the bowl manually. as previously stated, the upper filter bowl has a bleed vent. If it hasn't been damaged or plugged (don't know how that would happen with a good main filter) just a few cycles will easily fill the upper filter housing and remove air. If you are using Racor, Ford, Fram, or Sure filters, they will all work well and only go in one way.

Even though your initial description sounds like stiction, it could be something else, like your FICM. It might be coincidence that it started to act up at the same time as your oil and filter changes. As Southend would say, "get a monitor on it!" Let's find out what is causing your start issue.
Can I run deisel kleen with the archoil 6200 in the fuel? Is there anything bad that might come of that? Can't seem to find much literature on the matter.

As for the filters, they were all OEM from Ford. I did hear the distinctive click as I mounted the lower fuel filter into the lid.

As to the FICM, I know that the guy I bought the truck off, within about the last year, had his batteries get low and it took out the FICM, so he sent it out to be rebuilt. Not sure who with, but I have a receipt and will look. Also it has new batteries.

I do have a CTS, so I will try to monitor it on the next cold start and see what happens.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:44 AM
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Since it ran well this morning on the cold start-up, I would suggest not chasing ghosts, yet. As far as fuel conditioners go, no need to combine any of them; pick one and run with it. The 6200 claims to clean and lubricates your nozzles. The Kleen does the same. They probably contain many of the same ingredients. Which is better is anyone's guess? The best way to keep your nozzles clean is to not idle the truck and drive it like you stole it for a few minutes each day! Same for the turbo.

The oil additives for injectors seems to work, for a while. The real question is how long will it work for you and how many bottles vs the cost of changing the sticky injectors. Your new synthetic oil and regular oil changes will go a long way to keeping the injectors healthy.
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Old 01-21-2013, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by twoicebergs View Post
Since it ran well this morning on the cold start-up, I would suggest not chasing ghosts, yet. As far as fuel conditioners go, no need to combine any of them; pick one and run with it. The 6200 claims to clean and lubricates your nozzles. The Kleen does the same. They probably contain many of the same ingredients. Which is better is anyone's guess? The best way to keep your nozzles clean is to not idle the truck and drive it like you stole it for a few minutes each day! Same for the turbo.

The oil additives for injectors seems to work, for a while. The real question is how long will it work for you and how many bottles vs the cost of changing the sticky injectors. Your new synthetic oil and regular oil changes will go a long way to keeping the injectors healthy.
Thx for the info. I didn't really plan to run a bunch of additives. My end goal was to run a just the archoil, but I was concerned about fuel gelling. I'm guessing I don't need to worry about it so much with the winter blends? Or is there something cheaper to run than the CRC stuff that isn't also a performance modifier?

I figured this may all be nothing, but as I thought, the collective minds were quick to help out, so I can at least check out a few things to help ensure nothing I did is going to tank my motor. So far so good on that one.

I know I've got at least 1 injector that seems to have some stiction as best as I can tell. I'm not opposed to chasing down the problem for good, but middle of winter is not the time to do it in my opinion! I'm still pretty new to the truck, and there are a few things I would like to do to it, and some I have to. In the summer I'm going to be looking at doing a tear down to do a remote oil cooler, studs, HG's, EGR cooler, and a few updates like STC fittings and such. While I'm that knee deep I figure I'll change the injector (s) that need changing, and test all the glow plugs.

But I'd like to wait until I have some time off from work and warm sunny days to do it in my garage. Right now the bays at work are constantly in use, so I can only guarantee a saturday/sunday for working on the truck, which in my experience can quickly turn into something entirely worse.

Thx for the help! Will keep monitoring it and hopefully it was just a 1 off!
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:19 AM
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^^ I agree. Stick with what you've got and see what happens over the next few starts. The stuff you put in has a lubricity aid in it and disperses water, the 2-stroke adds lubricity as well and like Iceberg said the fuel up here already has the anti-gel in it and you've added more.

Watch your FICM and battery volts for a while and see how she runs before chasing a fuel filter problem (Those two PIDs along with EOT and ECT are always on my screen).

The 6200 you have is a fuel additive and won't help with stiction if in fact that's what's causing the rough idle. I've been having some missing (back in the fall) and rough idle on cold starts and put 8oz of Rev-X in on my fall oil change. It seems to be helping a great deal, however since it's been -30 or colder the last few weeks the trucks been plugged in. The coldest my oil and coolant temps have been on a cold start lately have been around 40*F and she started up and ran smooth like it's supposed to. When the warmer weather comes I'll see how she starts unplugged and have a better idea of what the Rev-X has done for me.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Fishermedic View Post
^^ I agree. Stick with what you've got and see what happens over the next few starts. The stuff you put in has a lubricity aid in it and disperses water, the 2-stroke adds lubricity as well and like Iceberg said the fuel up here already has the anti-gel in it and you've added more.

Watch your FICM and battery volts for a while and see how she runs before chasing a fuel filter problem (Those two PIDs along with EOT and ECT are always on my screen).

The 6200 you have is a fuel additive and won't help with stiction if in fact that's what's causing the rough idle. I've been having some missing (back in the fall) and rough idle on cold starts and put 8oz of Rev-X in on my fall oil change. It seems to be helping a great deal, however since it's been -30 or colder the last few weeks the trucks been plugged in. The coldest my oil and coolant temps have been on a cold start lately have been around 40*F and she started up and ran smooth like it's supposed to. When the warmer weather comes I'll see how she starts unplugged and have a better idea of what the Rev-X has done for me.
Thx. I remember one morning about 2 weeks ago doing a cold start and seeing my FICM voltage at 46.5 ~ 47.5 after start up. And battery voltage was at 12 ~ 12.5. Then after about 2 minutes of running it went up to 47.0 to 48.0, and battery to 12.8 ~ 13.4. Then after I was on the road, 5 minutes after start up, it was 48.0 ~ 48.5 and 13.4 ~ 13. 9.

I do have the archoil 9100 oil additive as well, but have yet to add it in. To help with the stiction.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:33 AM
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All of those voltages look fine. 46.5 is getting close to needing attention but it's still fine, I'd keep watching it to see if it's a constant thing or a one time thing. I got a repaired FICM from ficmrepair.com when mine dipped to 45-45.5 for a few days in a row. (after checking the batteries and alternator first of course)
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Old 01-21-2013, 10:34 PM
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For some reason after I change my oil the stiction that I have seems to be worse. It's strange because after I get some miles on the new oil the stiction progressively gets better; I have no clue why this is. Sooner or later I'll break down and buy some injectors.
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Old 01-21-2013, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Joeshu1000 View Post
For some reason after I change my oil the stiction that I have seems to be worse. It's strange because after I get some miles on the new oil the stiction progressively gets better; I have no clue why this is. Sooner or later I'll break down and buy some injectors.
My guess= Your old oil has sheared, and is really, really thin. Which means it flows nicely when cold at least. Do an oil change, fresh oil, it's thicker and any stiction will be more noticeable. That's why when you move to a 5w40 synthetic, from a 15w40 oil, the stiction improves. The thinner oil flows better and gets to the injectors.
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